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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2009 9:10:41 GMT -7
Hey guys
Im still new to t-jet but not HO slots . In the past I race mostly inline cars on road courses . I have a few t-jet and magna -traction type cars . Lets say I have $100.00 to get started , what advice on parts and other stuff would you give to get the ball rolling . I hope this topic will help me and maybe some new people that would like to get into this hobby .
Thanks
Shooter
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Post by da big ragu on Feb 6, 2009 9:19:54 GMT -7
 hey bud i did not forget you just making plans will let you know soon . now as for your 100. give it to me it will be safe lol ;D look around at the classes we run pick one you would like to enter and read the rules this will give you an idea of what you will need then you can find a post that will help you with the build you can do well with say a gasser car as it will also be your f/c ect .... and you may get say a ss car aswell for that same 100. just ask and look around . i am not the best here but i will help if i can DA BIG RAGOOOO
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Post by allstarhr on Feb 6, 2009 19:12:22 GMT -7
Sam did a real neat thing for the MM/PS race when he listed the parts he would recommend along with typical prices. Maybe we can get one of the "real" builders to list a logical starter setup for each class.
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Post by 440gtx on Feb 7, 2009 13:49:29 GMT -7
I don't know if I am a real builder or not but if I had to start over from scratch to build a SS'er I would buy the following.
3 rolling chassis $12.50-$14.00 each
2 gear plates w/arms $4.50-$6.00 each
2 sets of magnets $1.00-$2.19 each
2 pr BSRT 504 pick-up shoes $1.80 each
2 pr Slot Tech shoes $1.90 each
2 pr Wizzard brushes $1.75 each
2 pr JB Thunder Brushes $2.25 each
3 sets RRR wheels $3.50 each
2 pr Aml tuff-ones silicone tires $2.00 (if rules allow)
All of these parts will cost you between $78.40 and $88.28. This should give you enough parts to build a competitive car and a second car that should run fairly well.
I found all of these parts at various on-line retailers. The prices listed are the actual prices that I found.
I would also buy some #5 o-rings for the front tires. You can find these at most hardware stores.
If you plan to balance your arms you are also going to need a gear press $19.00-$40.00 and some new 14t pinion gears $1.25.
If you want to reuse your pinion gears you will need a gear puller also $15.00-$22.00.
Now here is the reasoning behind my suggestions. I'd buy 3 chassis for parts. Not all chassis are straight. You should find at least 1 good one out of three. I would buy the extra magnets and armatures to have a better selection to work with. I would buy BSRT and Slot Tech shoes. I have found that some cars run better with different shoes. These are the brands that work the best for me. I would buy the 2 brands of brushes for the same reason as the shoes. Try both and see which your chassis likes better. The RRR wheels just look cool. If the rules allow try the American Line tuff-ones silicone tires on the RRR wheels. The extra height will give some cars a little more speed.
I don't know if this helps but it is what I would do if it was me.
440
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Post by 440gtx on Feb 7, 2009 13:53:02 GMT -7
I almost forgot, You will need some lead to hold the front end down. ;D
440
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2009 15:53:23 GMT -7
Great post 440 . Thats exactly the info I was wanting to get from this post . Im sure this info will also help others who want to start . Hopeful more guys will give their thoughts on this topic
Thanks
Shooter
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Post by dave hochallanged evans on Feb 7, 2009 18:23:16 GMT -7
another add on I would put on some Wizzard Axle spacers@ a buck a pack for 8 to fine tune the gear mesh , and some guides as most chassis I've got don't come with them.
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Post by 440gtx on Feb 7, 2009 19:35:00 GMT -7
I have never had to space any of my t-jet gears.
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Post by SKR on Feb 8, 2009 7:30:21 GMT -7
I've had to space the crown gears on some J/L and A/W cars. Lots of slop on some of those chassis.
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Post by kdog on Feb 8, 2009 8:14:08 GMT -7
I own a fray chassis with a drill bit blank rear axle and have spacers at the crown gear makes for a very percise handleing chassis, have not tryed them on a drag car, but anything you do to use all the chassis energy to move forward can't be bad.
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