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Post by bondoman2k on Jul 15, 2010 21:10:30 GMT -7
Here ya go guys. Two videos on how to make molds. Pay VERY close attention to part 2..for the "Bombs Away" method of removing air from your silicone. Sorry about the 'ads' at the beginning of the video. Trust me, it's worth waiting for the howto's.  Ron (Bondo)  |
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Blue
Pro Stock
TKS Modelsports
Posts: 207
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Post by Blue on May 29, 2011 8:03:41 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing. They were very informative to the rookie caster.
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Post by charley on May 29, 2011 10:16:05 GMT -7
Very cool. Now for the BIG question. Say, I go to WallyWorld and find a real cool Hot Wheels car. Now, I want to make it in resin. How do I make the "mold" for it so I can cast a body?
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Post by bondoman2k on May 29, 2011 17:07:37 GMT -7
Here's a video on how to actually make the mold. Not the 'best' video, but be patient, I have MANY more saved, I will look them up and post them for ya. First, a few basics I'm not sure they tell you in the video. Taking apart a diecast car: First off, if it's a Johnny Lightniing, it only takes a very small drill bit. And some other mfr's just use screws to put them together. But on an HW car, get a 3/32 drill bit and either an electric drill or cordless drill. It actually works better and faster to use a 'slower' speed drill. It will 'cut' quicker. Second, drill a 3/32 'pilot' hole directly in the center of the 'rivet' (it's not actually a rivet, it's simply a metal post that the end is flared out with some type of punch), After you drill that a little into the post, get out an 11/32 inch drill bit (I think that's the size, you may need to look yourself to be sure). Then, just slowly drill, using the pilot hole as a guide. All you wanna do is drill off the 'ring' on the post. Shouldn't take much if you've used the correct size. You may need to use a smalll screwdriver and pry off the ring, or pop the chassis lose from the post. Be SURE to wear gloves when you do this, unless you have a drill press. A drill bit in your hand does NOT feel good!  Trust me, I've done it MANY times. Plus, the body itself may get a little warm, and the gloves help. And, it's VERY easy for that drill to slip, and if it's a plastic chassis, if the drill moves, it will go into that chassis faster than a sharp knife in hot butter!   I like to sit the car on a block of wood (I.E. a 2 by 4) so if anything slips, it's going into the wood and not my leg! Be sure if you want to use the actual diecast windshield, you protect it from scratching somehow with a rag, or even put several layers of masking tape on it. Now..check out this video: www.alumilite.com/HowTos/SlotCarMold.cfm There is a link to the actual pouring of the resin on the bottom of this how to. And, like I said, I have a lot more how to's saved, keep watching for them. But this will at least get you started. Ron (Bondo) |
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Post by bondoman2k on May 29, 2011 17:15:47 GMT -7
You COULD also just use a Dremel and grind away at the post, destroying the area around the post on the chassis. Be careful not to hurt the actual front or rear bumpers on the chassis. You will need these again when you make the body, either to cut them from the chassis and glue to the body and mold them in, or to make a mold of them seperately to use on the body after you've poured it. Either way works, but the Dremel way is a LOT noisier and a lot messier. And, you do NOT have to use a certain mfr's clay to fill the body when pouring the rubber. ANY 'sulphur free' non hardening modeling clay works. I get mine from Hobby Lobby, the name on it is "Von Aken", 3 or 4 bux for a pound. But there are other name brands as well. Just MUST be "Sulphur Free". But Alumilite's "Clean Clay" does seem to be the 'best' (also more expensive). Ron (Bondo) |
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Post by pceng on Sept 17, 2014 19:07:51 GMT -7
Seemed like an appropriate thread - - -
Been using , Alumilte products from.Hobby lobby...........
Started with their kit which contains Quick Set silicone.........No problems with making molds......... problems came later..
Quick Set when cured is rather hard........ after 3 or 4 bodys , molds were ripping (bottem pieces). Chunks were coming off around windows and grills.
Picked up Alumilite High Strength 3 silicone........... way softer than Quick Set........... flex allows for it to release from tight places in body.
After recasting bottems for molds. I've made 10x the bodies I have in the past year in one day !
WISH I KNEW TO BEGIN WITH ! !
Would have saved $ & time.
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Post by jjwallace on Sept 18, 2014 14:03:06 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing. Definitely good to know. I haven't tried casting yet, but am working toward it. Are you going to be selling any of your casts?
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Post by pceng on Sept 18, 2014 17:40:27 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing. Definitely good to know. I haven't tried casting yet, but am working toward it. Are you going to be selling any of your casts? Not sure , maybe if I can get more consistent results......... cut rate at best. Poured bottem of Monte Carlo........ get those started tomorrow. |
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Post by hairycanary on Sept 18, 2014 20:40:55 GMT -7
Seemed like an appropriate thread - - - Been using , Alumilte products from.Hobby lobby........... Started with their kit which contains Quick Set silicone.........No problems with making molds......... problems came later.. Quick Set when cured is rather hard........ after 3 or 4 bodys , molds were ripping (bottem pieces). Chunks were coming off around windows and grills. Picked up Alumilite High Strength 3 silicone........... way softer than Quick Set........... flex allows for it to release from tight places in body. After recasting bottems for molds. I've made 10x the bodies I have in the past year in one day ! WISH I KNEW TO BEGIN WITH ! ! Would have saved $ & time. Pete I have never tried Alumillite products so I can't comment. If you or anybody has any questions about casting I would be more than happy to try to answer. My methods are pretty simple and economical. I have had a lot of trial and error and still encounter some errors still learning and have a lot to learn but maybe my mistakes can save you some head aches and money. Rick |
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Post by pceng on Sept 19, 2014 7:32:29 GMT -7
Thanks Rick, the day my bodies look like yours...... I'll wake up and wonder where I am. Any tips for air pockets....... Buick Roadmaster is giving me fits. Get one out of three casts. Some whole side of body looks like ecto-skeleton of some bug.
........ Peter
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Post by hairycanary on Sept 19, 2014 22:55:53 GMT -7
Thanks Rick, the day my bodies look like yours...... I'll wake up and wonder where I am. Any tips for air pockets....... Buick Roadmaster is giving me fits. Get one out of three casts. Some whole side of body looks like ecto-skeleton of some bug. ........ Peter Pete sounds like you need a pressure pot (paint pot). I got mine at Harbour Freight $80 plus a regulator and gauge. The whole set up about $100. I found a couple more paint pots at the flea market for $10 each after I already bought the new one. I also use the same pot for a vacuum chamber too. I bought a pneumatic vacuum pump on EBay for $25 you run air through it and it creates a vacuum. All this requires a air compressor. I have been setting the pressure between 40 and 60 lbs. for getting the bubbles out. Some things to try without the pressure pot that I do before I put them in the pot is to slosh the resin around in the mold to paint or coat the inside like if you were going to do a slush cast and I use a small rounded flat spatchula to get the bubbles hidden in the under cuts (rear spoilers) and mounting posts. Then squish the other half of the mold. All my molds are squish molds no air vents nothing. Seems to work most of the time. If your getting the same bubbles in the same spot then your mold has air bubbles they won't go away only if you re mold and de gas the rubber. Also when you pour the rubber around your master pour a very thin stream with your can high above the box in a corner of your box so the thin stream keeps the bubbles from forming and the rubber flows around your master. Then when poured you can tap your mold box on the table top to bring some of the bubbles to the top. I use Legos to build my mold boxes. Hope some of this helps. I may be forgetting something. Maybe the other casters have other methods or tricks. Good Luck Rick |
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Post by pceng on Sept 20, 2014 12:49:48 GMT -7
Thanks for the info , Rick. Be reading a few more times I'm sure.
How much work time do you have with resin ? Once Alumilite is mixed gets hard pretty quick. Probably less than a minute.
Think.problem I've been having is putting to be much pressure on mold when putting together. Slight flex and air gets sucked back in or so it seems at moment.
...... Peter
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Post by hairycanary on Sept 20, 2014 18:21:47 GMT -7
Pete I had to go to a resin with more working time. I think the stuff I have been using is 6 min working time and still isn't enough time. I like to fill my pot with molds so I need the time. I have been getting my resin from Reynolds Advanced Materials and been very happy with there stuff. Still haven't found which rubber I like yet been getting the rubber from a guy on Ebay. I will get some pics of what my molds look like so you can compare.
Rick
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Trust me, I've done it MANY times. Plus, the body itself may get a little warm, and the gloves help. 
I like to sit the car on a block of wood (I.E. a 2 by 4) so if anything slips, it's going into the wood and not my leg! Be sure if you want to use the actual diecast windshield, you protect it from scratching somehow with a rag, or even put several layers of masking tape on it.
