Gale, .... 20'7.5" start to finish = 1/64 scale 1/4 mile. 10' of shut down, 1/2 of which is steel bar in place of track. variable 30 volt / variable 30 amp power supply. 2 power taps on the first section, 1 tap per 6' track section there after through a few inches past the finish line. micro switch wired remote automotive starter switch controllers.
I tried including proxy cars in the mix with live racing, but it was simply too much work. I run 7 classes during the course of one day. I am able to set the track up the night before the race, but I need to break it down and bring it home the end of the race, same day. at home, I have a 1/64 scale 1/8 mile. that is the longest I can fit and have a shutdown in my house.
I will try to have a proxy race on the 1/8 mile. the follow up race I wanted to do after your race was interrupted by unforeseen scheduling conflicts.
streaming is more than I can provide at this point. understand that I am the sole race master and I rarely even get a chance to race in a class. I try to provide a lot of pictures and details about the eliminations.
Sorry Al I misread the first post. I was thinking you meant a live streaming event. That was the reason for my comments about watching. I will definitely be checking out your normal results postings and pics. Thanks for sharing.
Post by yellerstang on Sept 4, 2019 11:09:07 GMT -7
I am interested in the race.
Tjet stock with stock tjet rubber tires
Tjet superstock with wheelie bars and slip on silicones on skinny flanged or unflanged stock sized wheels
Nothing much else matters to me.
I dont have time to build anything. I just had my basement waterproofed and my track is down for the count until they are finished and I can clean and repaint my entire basement. There is a huge, gigantic freakin mess...
I like the inlines the best but I don't mind running some of the pancake chassis. They are definitely more finicky and harder to keep running well which makes them a challenge. I have a lot of both kinds.
Post by yellerstang on Sept 6, 2019 12:00:59 GMT -7
Inlines are nice, but maybe it would be more fair to limit them to one specific, bone stock car brand with a drag style body. No mods, factory everything, just do your homework and make them run...
In a stock class like that, most everyone can be competitive and have a chance against more seasoned racers. I suggest the newest versions of a G+ chassis based car with all stock parts, including tires. Can motors, not much to mess with, fast too.
Who would be able to police all the different brands to know what is or is not stock. Imagine counting the teeth on all the crown gears for each car entered and doing the research to find out what is a stock tire and what is not for each brand. We tried a Rookie class to give those without to much experience a better chance to win an event and we got only 2 entries the last time we tried that.
yes, enforcing rules is a drag and takes more time than I care to. because of time constraints, I have to rely on the honesty of my racers at live events. there have been occasions when one persons cars were a good bit faster than everyone else's and upon a comment by one racer, I had to look at those cars. springs were being used in place of brushes and the cars had to be DQed. the racer in question has stood fast to that was a grey area and he just took advantage. it was not a grey area. the rules clearly stated "brushes". I like to run fair races and give the average guys a chance to compete right along with the "pros". I have told the guys I caught cheating to tell me what they would like etched on their trophy plaques and I will get that for them. but don't CHEAT just to get one. they have not come back.
I have a gauss meter so I can check magnet strength, remembering magnet strength can vary quite a bit between manufacturers. I can also check armature readings without taking a motor apart once again knowing that all cars are not made equal. I generally only check cars that are really running well including my own. I once found that I had put poly magnets in one of my cars and totally forgot about it. The same thing with armatures, I had some 4 ohms in what I thought were 6 ohms. I have a couple of hundred cars so it could easily happen. The funny thing with the 4 ohms was that it did not run as good as some of my 6 ohms.