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Post by AJR on Jun 3, 2018 13:31:13 GMT -7
If the person posting the picture is using Flikr, just click on it and it can be enlarged when it opens in Flikr. In this case just clicking on it enlarges it without doing anything else making it easily readable....fyi.
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Post by AJR on Jun 3, 2018 14:26:25 GMT -7
Thanks guys, This is what I was given in regards to track wiring so far, I like this one but open to other suggestions  Robert I'm a little confused. Are you planning on having a return lane? This waaay overkill for what you described. My track is as basic as it gets. Left rail is the power rail +...right rail is the common -. Power supplies are basically wired hot to left rail and common to right rail. You break the circuit with your controller on the power wire. In other words with the supplies wired, cut the power wire, one end of the cut wire will go to one side of your controller (or drivers station), and the other end of the cut wire will go to the other side of the controller (or drivers station). Now when you pull the trigger on the controller you will allow power through to the track. My track is dead track at the finish sensor and shut down. On my Maxx Trax I leave one of the track connecting bars out. You would bend the tabs back. If you want dynamic braking in the shut down. Connect both rails together....o bviousy only if it is dead track. The deceleration of the unpowered car provides the braking. This is your basic wiring set up. I did not speak on muti taps or fuses, etc. Everybody has their own way of doing things. This is how Bear Creek is wired. I have three power taps and my power supplies are fused. Adding relays just adds a switched circuit and power supply to the track wiring. The relay contacts will take the place of the controller. But you will need a transformer to power the relays and a switch to activate them. Hope all of this makes some sense?? |
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Post by ncdragracer on Jun 3, 2018 17:42:17 GMT -7
Jeff,
I am considering doing a return spur, therefore the above wiring diagram. Still contemplating the idea. I was browsing the forum and your pictures of Bear Creek version #2 and was going to reach out to you in regards to your wiring layout
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Post by AJR on Jun 3, 2018 17:48:45 GMT -7
Kiwidave has a setup with a powered return road. He might be able to help. I'm not sure, but I think his return road has a separate power supply.
I also have a relay wired into my layout for simultaneous start. The only time I use it is for list racing. That is required. Otherwise I have drivers. I also made my own drivers stations.....basically a painted panel with bolts running through it to connect wiring to. I was on a low budget when I did all of that, but it has worked well. I see no need to change it.
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Post by dave632 on Jun 4, 2018 10:05:10 GMT -7
I will draw up a schematic diagram on how to wire it up. Those are a double pole double throw switch it that diagram along with 2 single pole single throw switches.
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Post by dave632 on Jun 6, 2018 9:37:14 GMT -7
Don't know how good this schematic diagram will show up here. The start buttons are momentary contact. The relays are automotive with 30 amp secondary and a 12V primary coil but the primary runs fine at 20+ volts as we use it. This setup if for individual lane start.  Relay wiring diagram |
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Post by ncdragracer on Jun 6, 2018 14:37:53 GMT -7
Thanks Dave, its kind of hard to see but get the idea of it. Also, what size wire are all you guys running from your power supplies?? |
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Post by dave632 on Jun 6, 2018 20:21:57 GMT -7
Sorry I drew it in pencil, should have went over with a pen. Any questions just ask.
I went extreme with my wiring running #10 wire to the start middle and end of the track. It may be overkill but most cars run quicker on my track than other tracks, mine sure do.
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Post by ncdragracer on Jun 7, 2018 1:50:35 GMT -7
Thanks again Dave. Gregory's site lists using 14 to 16 gauge wiring, I know when I ran the bigger cars in the past the wiring was larger, so I was thinking 12 to 14 but was not sure about size from power supply, Gregs site also shows three wire controller hook ups, and I am used to only having and seen two wire controller hook ups
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Post by gnome on Jun 7, 2018 5:41:55 GMT -7
Motor city raceway has 3 locations (bolth ends and middle of table) that you can hook your controler to either yellow or white lane. It is also wired with dynamic braking (3 wires) . I ran 2 #12 wire from power source to tha center driver stations with a 10 amp fuse in each.i then conected power leads from yellow to white at that station then ran 4 #12 from that to each end of table with more redundancy at each end,2 wires to left station and 2 wires to right station .there is 5 track taps that all conect together and from that i ran 2 #12 back to power source. My table (16'×2')has a little over 200' of #12 under it.my current set up doubles as road coarse the future drag strip will be closer to what dave 632 is running, was thinking off using square stock rails flush with track surface and #10 wire taps .one more thing all my wire ends are soldered.
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Post by ncdragracer on Jun 11, 2018 6:13:07 GMT -7
Guys,
Its been a hectic week (getting ready for Inventory this Thursday at my store)
ROCKY RIVER Dragway UPDATE:
I made the decision of doing a return road, and have the Track all figured out. I appreciate the info given so far, and always take in all the advice you guys give. I just landed what I think is a MAJOR score, and picked up a BRAND NEW AFX Super International Set which goes for over 300.00 bucks for under and get this $30.00!! I will need to get some more straight track for the main timed area, and Auto World has a deal going where you can get a 10 piece 15" straight bulk set for $24.99
Track is going to consist of AW/Tomy-AFX track (Main Track) along with with Older AFX & L/L (Return Road - using this as I have had a pretty big lay out of L/L track that has been boxed up and remembered that I had.) A few more track pieces came in and waiting on a adapter set from Canada which I got another REALLY good deal on which was hard to find here in the states without costing a arm, leg and a pint of blood. I still need to get one more set of adapters as well as a few more "Special" track pieces (4 of them are the power tap track pieces) and I feel I will be good to go for what I need to complete the layout.
I scored a Model Rectifier Race Pack Power supply which has a 12 and 24 volt range that is controlled by flipping a switch. Output is 4 amps at 12 volts and 2 amps at 24 volts which I am going to use for the "Return" Road supply.
Main table will be 36" wide by 17' long which will give me the room needed for timed length, ample shut down for the classes I am wanting to run, and host. However, I am still up in air for the timing system I spoke with a friend of mine who is a electrical engineer and we are looking into if he can build a timing system based of off using Arduino components but in the mean time I can hopefully get started on the base and main structures this coming weekend
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Post by GTS on Jun 11, 2018 11:05:29 GMT -7
ROCKY RIVER Dragway UPDATE:............. However, I am still up in air for the timing system I spoke with a friend of mine who is a electrical engineer and we are looking into if he can build a timing system based of off using Arduino components but in the mean time I can hopefully get started on the base and main structures this coming weekend The timing system on my track uses an Arduino Mega 2560 R3. The software will work fine with an Arduino Uno, you just have more future options with the Mega. The software, Drag Race Coordinator is available as a free download and you can run it in "Demo" mode to find out if it will meet your needs before investing in an Arduino, etc.. |
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Post by ncdragracer on Jun 11, 2018 11:46:12 GMT -7
The timing system on my track uses an Arduino Mega 2560 R3. The software will work fine with an Arduino Uno, you just have more future options with the Mega. The software, Drag Race Coordinator is available as a free download and you can run it in "Demo" mode to find out if it will meet your needs before investing in an Arduino, etc.. G, I was planning on reaching out to you in regards to what system you went with, and how you liked it. And what would be needed to use it |
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Post by GTS on Jun 11, 2018 13:34:27 GMT -7
G, I was planning on reaching out to you in regards to what system you went with, and how you liked it. And what would be needed to use it Click the link in the post above, download the software and install it. As with any software, there's a lil' bit of a learning curve trying to figure out what's what, but you can do all that in "Demo" mode. I have it installed on a desktop with Windows 7. The Arduino is hooked up via a usb cable. All the sensors are hooked up to the Arduino and the software lets you determine which pins to use for what sensors, start lane 1, start lane 2, etc..
Items needed to use it: 1 - Software, free download (donation suggested, not required). 3 - Sensors, I used these , I got 10 because of the price break. 4 - Wire, 18 to 22 gauge for all the sensor hook ups. I think I got a 150 foot roll off ebay.
You also need a light source for the sensors. Also, I opted to get one of these , not required but it certainly made the wiring up much easier.
Any other questions, ask away and I'll do my best.
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Post by ecbill on Jun 11, 2018 18:13:09 GMT -7
Guys, Its been a hectic week (getting ready for Inventory this Thursday at my store) ROCKY RIVER Dragway UPDATE: I made the decision of doing a return road, and have the Track all figured out. I appreciate the info given so far, and always take in all the advice you guys give. I just landed what I think is a MAJOR score, and picked up a BRAND NEW AFX Super International Set which goes for over 300.00 bucks for under and get this $30.00!! I will need to get some more straight track for the main timed area, and Auto World has a deal going where you can get a 10 piece 15" straight bulk set for $24.99 Track is going to consist of AW/Tomy-AFX track (Main Track) along with with Older AFX & L/L (Return Road - using this as I have had a pretty big lay out of L/L track that has been boxed up and remembered that I had.) A few more track pieces came in and waiting on a adapter set from Canada which I got another REALLY good deal on which was hard to find here in the states without costing a arm, leg and a pint of blood. I still need to get one more set of adapters as well as a few more "Special" track pieces (4 of them are the power tap track pieces) and I feel I will be good to go for what I need to complete the layout. I scored a Model Rectifier Race Pack Power supply which has a 12 and 24 volt range that is controlled by flipping a switch. Output is 4 amps at 12 volts and 2 amps at 24 volts which I am going to use for the "Return" Road supply. Main table will be 36" wide by 17' long which will give me the room needed for timed length, ample shut down for the classes I am wanting to run, and host. However, I am still up in air for the timing system I spoke with a friend of mine who is a electrical engineer and we are looking into if he can build a timing system based of off using Arduino components but in the mean time I can hopefully get started on the base and main structures this coming weekend Did you get that one that was on Craigs list in NC? |
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