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Post by gibbo61 on May 23, 2019 6:43:30 GMT -7
Well I'm getting close to painting my first attempt at working with a resin cast body. Wondering the best way to secure the mounting post to a body.
The body is a " Gasser " style so an engine is part of post. I have seen JB-Weld mentioned and have worked with it before.Just wanting to find out
if there are any weird reactions with the resin I should know about. I have managed to break off the pipes and had to fab up some plus "build" a
body panel under the front bumper already. Trying to minimize any more self inflicted hiccups.
 
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Post by GTS on May 23, 2019 6:55:39 GMT -7
I don't have a clue what the best way to make those attachments would be so will be interested in the responses. Just wanted to let you know, I think your car is lookin' killer and anxious to see the completion  . |
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Post by AJR on May 23, 2019 8:14:05 GMT -7
Well I'm getting close to painting my first attempt at working with a resin cast body. Wondering the best way to secure the mounting post to a body.
The body is a " Gasser " style so an engine is part of post. I have seen JB-Weld mentioned and have worked with it before.Just wanting to find out
if there are any weird reactions with the resin I should know about. I have managed to break off the pipes and had to fab up some plus "build" a
body panel under the front bumper already. Trying to minimize any more self inflicted hiccups.
Gibbo61 JB Weld can be used, but the problem is it takes too long to cure. What I have been using for a long time is a 30 minute two part epoxy. The shorter the cure time on epoxy, the more "rubbery" it is. The longer is obviously the opposite. I have found the 30min is a happy medium. It still dries hard, cures quickly, and has the necessary strength. Make sure the area around the post and the post itself is clean and scuffed up a bit. Hope this helps. |
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Post by gibbo61 on May 23, 2019 12:55:11 GMT -7
Does the epoxy have any gap filling ability? the engine/post are fairly tight to bottom of hood but there is a small gap between engine front and back of grill area. I could use putty but I'D like to be able to compete without sending a boat anchor to the next event lol
Sounds like the epoxy is the way to go. Thanks for the info & encouragement.
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Post by AJR on May 23, 2019 15:56:45 GMT -7
Does the epoxy have any gap filling ability? the engine/post are fairly tight to bottom of hood but there is a small gap between engine front and back of grill area. I could use putty but I'D like to be able to compete without sending a boat anchor to the next event lol Sounds like the epoxy is the way to go. Thanks for the info & encouragement. There is also some info. on body mounting that you can find here nitroslots.com/thread/2197/aw-4-gear-tips-tricks?page=2. I will use a small drop of super glue intially to get the saddle and the post set and then go back with the epoxy. It is easier that way. If you mess up, you can break the bond and reset them. You can work the epoxy into the gaps with a toothpick or other tool. |
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2019 18:15:12 GMT -7
I concur with Jeff.
first fix the items in place with super glue and let that "gas out" for a few hours. test fit everything to make sure you have your final placements.
then a good epoxy on clean areas will hold forever.
the epoxy will fill well and you only need a little.
hope you will be able to share some pictures soon.
have fun
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Post by gibbo61 on May 28, 2019 4:19:18 GMT -7
My hands are not as steady as they once were but I am happy with my progress on the "Troublemaker"
 
Some more decals, glass installed ,and a dose of clear coat should cap off my first resin body
Once I knock out the chassis my Door slammer entry is done.
Thx. for the advice & guidance .
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Post by Eagle Racing on May 29, 2019 4:27:25 GMT -7
My hands are not as steady as they once were but I am happy with my progress on the "Troublemaker"
Some more decals, glass installed ,and a dose of clear coat should cap off my first resin body
Once I knock out the chassis my Door slammer entry is done.
Thx. for the advice & guidance .
Nice job, I like it. Looking forward to seeing "Troublemaker" comleted! |
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Post by gibbo61 on May 31, 2019 4:03:11 GMT -7
The big viper donuts fit up under pretty good. I need to steady my knife hand a little but I'd say Belvedere is done. 1st shot at a resin body in the books. Thank you for the advice and tips  
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Post by Eagle Racing on May 31, 2019 5:21:57 GMT -7
gibbo61, looking good for 1st shot at a resin body! Now it's time to make Troublemaker go fast... 
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Post by AJR on May 31, 2019 6:31:30 GMT -7
The big viper donuts fit up under pretty good. I need to steady my knife hand a little but I'd say Belvedere is done. 1st shot at a resin body in the books. Thank you for the advice and tips Looks like it turned out pretty awesome gibbo....especially for your first one. I know my first one did not look near as nice! Like Eagle said...now to make it fast. I'm already looking forward to the next custom in the Gibbo61 garage . |
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Post by gibbo61 on May 31, 2019 11:52:22 GMT -7
very very nice work indeed,hopefully I can steady up and get 'em lookiing'that clean those wheels are smokin'
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Post by dave632 on May 31, 2019 18:36:13 GMT -7
I agree with the others that starting to mount your posts with gel super glue is the way to start. I have the body mounted with a screw and the post
at the right height. Then I hold the body in place while the super glue sets. The only thing I do different is that I use Testors plastic cement along with
the cured super glue. I let the testors set for a day before running the body. My 60+ mph BSRT car is mounted this way along with the stock AFX mounts and the body stays on.
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