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Post by Demon340 on Aug 13, 2008 15:29:35 GMT -7
Ok Iam going to say .6755  |
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Post by rapidrichard on Aug 13, 2008 18:48:38 GMT -7
Hey Phil
we need to stop the demom,and bring Tom back
{the demon name stays}
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Post by Demon340 on Aug 13, 2008 19:29:17 GMT -7
Richard be careful what you wish for my evel sister CHIRSTINE will be here soon and you will have to deal with two baaaaad MOPARS. ;D DEMON 340  Hey PHIL RICHARDS got more of those little FROGS.  |
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Post by rapidrichard on Aug 14, 2008 7:36:45 GMT -7
I say .685
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Post by randtek on Aug 14, 2008 14:19:17 GMT -7
.6908 for me
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Post by SKR on Aug 14, 2008 15:14:33 GMT -7
From Jet's S/S tuning guide. What is air-gapping? It's cutting/grinding down the outside dimension of the metal lams to make them all the same distance from the motor shaft. Sort or making the outside of the circle center around the motor shaft. Why do it? It allows the motor to be centered in the chassis and you can also shim the magnets closer to the motor for more power/torque. Sometimes a motor that isn't air-gapped will strike a motor magnet if the magnet is shimmed too close to the motor. You also get an equal attraction force from the metal lams towards the magnets. That smooths out the motor - sort of like when you rode your Huffy bike as a kid and each time you'd push downward on a pedal the bike would surge forward then slow down until you pushed downward on the other pedal. The motor behaves like this if the lams are differing distances from the motor shaft. I use a fine stone and hold it against the edge of the motor while it is spinning at a high rpm. Make sure you do this step before you balance your motor as you are removing metal.  The outside edge of the lam will look like so when finished. I try to hit 60-70% of the exposed edges - not all of it but nearly all of it. I don't want to remove too much metal. In this pic I pretty much hit 100% of this end - that means that one of the remaining two ends doesn't have much metal removed.  |
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Post by SKR on Aug 14, 2008 15:16:21 GMT -7
More tips from the S/S guide. Same method for F/C, Rat Rods etc... How to balance a motor? I like razor blades, long ones too. I bought some at Home Depot and then got a couple bolts, washers & nuts and sandwiched the razor blades in between the washers. Works well enough for me. I do the initial balancing on this device then move the motor over to a jeweler's balancing tool. It's got very fine/sharp edges to rest the motor shaft on to do very detailed balancing.  Once the motor stops turning I use a Dremel diamond wheel to cut a slot into the metal lam and remove metal. Remember it is the side that ends up on the bottom that you want to grind away at. Remember it's a diamond wheel - it will buzz clean through the metal lam in a hurry so go slow and don't take off too much. You'll also cut into the wires and ruin your motor if you get careless. (BTDT).  Here are some slots that I cut into the lams to remove weight.  Another method of balancing is to add lead weight. You can cut slivers of lead off fishing weights to add to the motor. Remember, if you use this technique that you will have to add the lead weight to the TOP of the motor when it stops on the razor blades. You can see a square of lead on the right side of the motor that I added on the top of the comm plate and to the inside of the end of the lam. I use super glue to attach it to the comm plate.  |
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Post by SKR on Aug 17, 2008 19:12:35 GMT -7
I'm behind schedule for this pass time tonight. I'll have results up tomorrow evening.  |
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Post by SKR on Aug 18, 2008 15:16:10 GMT -7
Allstar goes down in flamesAfter two weeks at the top Allstar plunges to the bottom for this round. Allstar was unable to be reached for comment. One can only speculate that he had frog legs on his mind and not racing. HOChallanged was just about on the number missing it by .0008, looks like all the theory and calculations are paying off. Well done HOC! You win a Model Motoring Willys body donated by Kdog Racing. The biggest news of this contest has to be Randtek's dominating consistency placing second for three passes. This gives him a 3 point lead over Da Big Ragu. We will be taking a week off and getting back to the contest after the Gasser reunion. From here we will start with the F/C chassis portion of the contest. The winner of the contest will get both armatures so they can set it up for F/C or Rat Rod.  This rounds winners were off by:
1. HOchallanged--------.0008
2. Randtek--------------.0015
3. Rapid Richard-------.0043
4. 440GTX---------------.0066
5. Ragu-----------------.0100
6. Demon340-----------.0138
7. Nightrider------------.0159
8. Allstar----------------.0288
Updated points. They can also be found in the first post of this thread.
----Racer-----------Points-------------
1. Randtek--------------6/9/2/9/9/ total 35
2. Ragu-----------------9/8/5/4/6/ total 32
3. Rapid Richard---------7/6/6/3/8/ total 30
4. Allstar----------------2/4/10/10/3/ total 29
4. Nightrider------------10/1/8/6/4/ total 29
5. Demon340------------5/5/3/8/5/ total 26
5. HOchallanged----------1/7/1/7/10/ total 26
6. 440GTX---------------3/3/7/2/7/ total 22
7. Olroy-----------------4/2/4/5/0/ total 15
8. Kdog-----------------0/10/0/0/0/ total 10
9. Nitro-------------------0/0/9/0/0/ total 9
10. Tbolt-----------------8/0/0/0/0/ total 8
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Post by SKR on Aug 29, 2008 13:20:14 GMT -7
Alright, time to get back to this contest. I'll be addidng a American Line Mean Green Aramature to the car. No balancing this time. Also I'm going to add some silicone foam rear wheels and tires.
Have your Pass time posted by Tuesday evening 9pm EST.
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Post by dave hochallanged evans on Aug 29, 2008 15:12:18 GMT -7
My crystal ball,says big difference, going to break the . 5 barrier with a .5978  |
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Post by nightrider on Aug 29, 2008 16:56:28 GMT -7
.5775
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Post by Demon340 on Aug 29, 2008 17:26:09 GMT -7
Ill go with OOOOOOOOOOOOOOH .5894
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Post by da big ragu on Aug 29, 2008 18:34:02 GMT -7
 well you never can tell lets say .5803
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Post by 440gtx on Aug 30, 2008 0:22:14 GMT -7
.6050
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