Hey Wazzer, I put 1/32 silver braids on when changing from the RS braid. The wear marks on the silver braids all show copper. Just brand, maybe don't know.
Thanks Pceng. Thought that might be the case. I found some silver 3/32 wide that end up about 1/8 after you flatten them. Should be perfect. They're very thin also, just a little thicker than the shoes.
Are flat shoes better than stepped for braids, since you're increasing the "thickness"? I would think braids on stepped shoes would put chassis higher than normal. Yes/no?
Hey Wazzer, not sure about flat vs. stepped shoes. As for the front tires being on the track, I guess it's a matter of how strong the p/u springs are. Most cars I think the f/tires are slightly off. If your way off track try different springs. Someplace in NTRA rules I have seen "on or close to" referring to f/tires. Never have had anything with flat shoes. Seems being hinged higher than rail and flat, would make for a real small contact area on shoe. I know on stepped shoes the larger the contact area (wear spot), the better your cars will run. .......PC
Post by tazman052186 on May 19, 2012 7:46:16 GMT -7
Im having trouble with my mean green arm in an Autoworld 4 gear chassis. I got a John Force funny car. I have a top few car and my mean green arm is fine in it. Well with the funny car it slows down with the clip the holds the gears on. With the clip off it spins fast. Its seems to me that there is to much pressure on it pushing down or up. I did push the brushes up a little but not much when I had the stock arm in it. What am I doin wrong with it. I dont have an arm gear on it yet and neither does my top few. I also switched the top plate on them to and the funny car dose the same thing. I have one more chassis to try it in to see if it does it on it or not.
Post by bondoman2k on May 19, 2012 11:48:31 GMT -7
Taz, you may need to VERY slightly open up the hole in the chassis that the arm shaft sets in. Basically, you would need to 'bevel' the inside of the hole. it may be the sleeve on the bottom of the arm shaft is causing it to bind. Also, I have noticed on some of the upper plates above the magnets there are two little 'nubs' that put pressure on the magnets to 'align' them. I have had a few chassis that if I shave off the nubs, it frees up the arms better. Ron (Bondo)
Drag Racing...Because if you can turn, you're not going fast enough!
Sounds like sleeve, if you hold chassis to light and look from side (I use magnifying glass) you should see some light under sleeve. If not look at inside of chassis, may have to turn in light to see it. If sleeve is putting presure on chassis floor you should be able to see a mark from it. Like it was polished, a ring aroung the arm shaft hole. I've found a small round dremel bit (finger spun) the easieswt way to remove that polished surface. Re-assemble with clip and spin arm. If still tight repeat process. Be carefull doing this only spin bit afew times at a shot. Had one arm that would keep leaving a mark when checking for fit. Cuping around shaft hole reaches edge of both brush pockets now. But it spins real goood.