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Post by ecbill on Dec 11, 2017 4:40:57 GMT -7
If I understand you guys correctly, you install your power taps directly from the power source to several points on the track rather than running jumpers from each track section to the next.
Knowing that saw dust will be an ongoing problem in the wood shop, I have been considering building the track in the car section of the garage. Big issue there is that there is only a 21 foot run of wall space until it is interrupted by a doorway. To have enough shutdown space, a draw bridge of a sort will have to be made.
Thanks for all of the tips guys!
Bill
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2017 10:56:20 GMT -7
Hi EC, I cannot speak for others in how they have wired their tracks. I can only tell you what I have done. This a based on working and helping to design what is know as DCC ( Digital Command Control ) for model railroads. The track I am currently working on is 40' in length. Running down the center of the track below the surface are two 10 gauge buses. Each bus consists of two 10 gauge stranded wires. One black. One Red. All these wires run the entire length of the area that requires power. My track consists of 3 foot sections each having feeders attached to the rails. These feeders are then soldered to the heavy bus wires below. The end result is that you have a heavy duty bus power delivery system, just like your power lines that feed you house, and from there you tap off of it to power all pieces of rail. From there I have continued to keep things heavy duty. Most tracks I have seen will then connect up their controller stations and then over to the power supply. Rather then tie the common together at the controllers and also the positive then over to the power supply I run a separate common and a separate positive from each controller station over to the power supply. This prevents circulating currents from occurring and also prevents one lane from robbing from the other. Its more work but the rules have not changed. Try and do it right the first time not to mention who wants to have to spend time under the track trying to figure out what is wrong.
Nothing wrong with a removable section. Sounds like it would not be powered anyway as it would be your shutdown area. I will be posting pictures today of my new track. Not done yet but the bench work is complete. The track is installed and all the wiring is in place. I have done something a little different for my shut down area. Right after the finish line the remaining sections are on a movable incline. There are sensors in the shutdown area that when crossed by a car will raise the incline up just a little. For each sensor covered by a car the incline will continue to raise up. It all works with one exception - - - I cannot find stepper motors fast enough to handle raising the incline quick enough to handle the real fast cars! So for now I have the incline set at its maximum. Having the incline really helps in stopping the cars along with the dynamic and powered braking features.
Alan Alan
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Post by dave632 on Dec 11, 2017 13:48:12 GMT -7
Bill, you would have a fairly short shut down with 21' but it could be done as long as you don't run the 40-60 mph cars. I use dynamic braking, steel stop strips and a catch box, the catch box is important here. Only one car ever made it thru all of this and hit the wall and that was the 67 mph car. That was before I modified the catch box. I have only about 1.5' more than you and I have stopped the 40-60 mph cars safely with only a body knocked off occasionally. Running all power lines directly to the power supply gives the least power loss and is only important if you are looking for the best performance out of the cars.
Alan, there would be a very slight reaction time delay as indicated but it would be the same for both lanes.
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Post by jjwallace on Dec 11, 2017 16:27:02 GMT -7
Bill as Dave said....it can be done in that space. I am working with slightly less than that and have run cars running mid to low .4's without any damage. Catch box is crucial but I do a series of towels spaced before the box. I accordion the first and roll two and then box is padded with another towel and sponge foam. These are like dishtowels. The gears don't like it when you stop them too fast. I have about 3 1/2 ft of shut down with no dynamic braking. Not ideal I know, but I have made it work successfully and am still able to run some of the faster classes. 60mph no way could I do that and would not try. Would have to set something up like Smoky Mountain Dragway to do that. Anyway....a very workable space. Funny that you mention a draw bridge. My track is center of my 2 car garage and ends at the divider between the two doors. I have debated on cutting a hole in between the studs and carrying the shut off outside into the driveway.....unlimited. Vinyl siding would cover the hole aesthetically and that part could be metal rails like Dave's. Hmmmm that could still happen. Not a draw bridge....more like a tunnel....but where there's a will there's a way. Here is some information I stumbled across. I know everyone wants the 20 and 30amp power supplies but they are expensive. For those that aren't here is a link. I have used a Mastech 3010E (30v / 10a) since I first set my track up. It has been excellent. I am now running two....one power supply for each lane. The last one I bought I think cost me about $120 - $130. This is an excellent price for $99! Far far superior to any wall wart out there. Here's the link. www.kitsusa.net/phpstore/html/HY3010E-MASTECH-Variable-Single-Output-DC-Power-Supply-Digital-0-to-30VDC-0-10AMP-1234.html
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