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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2009 12:46:27 GMT -7
I do not remember the rating of the capacitors anymore and the spares I have only have a part number on them. I will add that info once I find it again. I took a pic to show how I hooked them up. The large 10awg wire is my supply wires & the smaller wire soldered to it with the caps go up to the track.  These look like the same caps we used on RC Truck motors |
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Post by allstarhr on Apr 1, 2009 12:48:16 GMT -7
Yep, that's what we did that made me think I had the track fixed 8 weeks ago. We added capacitors to each lane across the power wires and it did help a lot... For about two weeks. We even replaced the caps in case we had accidently "smoked" them. With the track only timed 8'-9" I only have one tap to the rails and with two of Alan Glanko's 1-20 volt / 10 amp power supplies and a cap in each lane, we thought it would be enough. What do you think?
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Post by mobydidit on Apr 1, 2009 22:14:27 GMT -7
They are close in size to RC motor caps.
Allstarhr I would say you have enough caps if your timing system is working normal. I have 5 taps on my track. It 1/8th mile 8'-9" like yours. powered length is 10' & the track is made of five 2' sections with a tap on each section. It took 4 caps at each tap at the starting line & 3 caps at each tap the rest of the way to stop the interference on mine. I am running 26.5 volts (2 car batteries & a Trackmate 0-30 20amp power supply) so that might make a difference. I will be eliminating some taps when my new track arrives. It will only be 3 sections instead of 5. The only time I have seen a problem damaging the caps is if something happens to short the rails.
I hope the info helps
Eric
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Post by dave hochallanged evans on Apr 2, 2009 2:10:57 GMT -7
When working with transmiters an recivers I learned tha keeping the leads as short as possible and bare wire to a minimum help as they acts a small antenna sending noise
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2009 12:18:52 GMT -7
When building my first timing system in 1985, I chased ghost for months.
From what I’ve read you have done many good things to fight the problem.
“If you have the sense wires away from the track rails” they spit out enormous
Amounts of EMP from the shoes dragging on them.
I found the ghost were caused by the sensors themselves.
I haven’t seen how the trackmate sensors are configured for HO tracks.
I know it’s a photo transistor but is there a variable adjustment on the sensor?
When light hits the sensor it shorts the return sense wire to ground. If this
wire is grounded enough it can’t pick up the emp. Things like too small hole to the sensor
if its recessed, Not enough light or the sense adjustment (if it has one) set to low. If an adjustment is not used on trackmate It can be added this could work wonders for you.
Could someone post the configuration of the sensors? After seeing this I may be able to suggest an adjustment upgrade.
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Post by allstarhr on Apr 2, 2009 16:56:56 GMT -7
No adjustments that I know of. As far as the hole goes, I have just been drilling an 1/8th inch hole and popping the sensor in with a dab from a glue gun. I've not worried about the thickness of the wood/Formica but the sensors are close to the top of the Formica when finished. We don't seem to ever miss a car so it's not that they are too far down in the hole or anything. When we were glitching baddly here it was popping up a false number on the screen at the hit of the throttle and not when the car crossed the finish line. Looks like the re-wiring fixed it so far. (Can you tell I'm still gun shy?)
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