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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2020 7:14:07 GMT -7
from said article ... "Wheelie Bars: Homemade ones or you can buy one from Kevin Crowe - The Winning Edge - XXX-XXX-XXXX" Kevin hasn't been with us for some time. Jim Sgrig is mostly retired for health reasons. RTHO doesn't make metal crown gears anymore. Alan Galinko quit quite some time ago. and, while this is a very informative and instructional article, it is very old. I spoke at length with Eric, whom I have raced with at his home, Solanco Dragway, Great Traditions and at hanks/my races in Skippack PA. he has indicated that he is gathering the additional tools to make the gears we desire plus much more, but he still has a daughter in her senior year of high school and her activities take much of his time, so it will be sometime before these gears appear. I do want to thank Steve for bringing this to our attention and it is good to know that Eric is still interested in our hobby even if he is taking a hiatus for now. . |
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Post by swiftkart on Jun 24, 2020 13:04:05 GMT -7
 Eric should have a couple of 15t crowns left on hand, I purchased a few from him last month, he said he still had a couple left at the time and would be making more. |
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Post by AJR on Jun 27, 2020 18:01:39 GMT -7
Very cool article Swiftkart! Thank you for posting. Please keep us updated on any of those gears please. I would be interested in a couple if they do become available.That would be awesome. |
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Post by AJR on Jun 27, 2020 18:33:49 GMT -7
Had to stop on the Unlimited 4g to get a few cars ready for Thunder Road, but got back on it today. Gears are now soldered and they are all one unit ready to be screwed onto the top plate. I decided to solder the crown gear instead of JB Weld. It's not pretty, but it should be fine. I was nervous about the soldering. I really need a better iron to be doing the crown. Things are a little tighter than I really wanted but I think with some good lapping things will be right on.
I ended up not using any JB Weld or glue on the top plate. Relying on the screws alone which should also be just fine. But I might go back after break in and set the screws with super glue. I don't want to do that yet in case I need to disassemble. This is version #3 and each one is a little better than the last. One of my other builds is running ball bearings on the axles.
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Post by GTS on Jun 27, 2020 19:00:34 GMT -7
WOW!  |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2020 19:21:59 GMT -7
what HE ^ said
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Post by AJR on Jun 27, 2020 20:05:11 GMT -7
I now have a rolling chassis. This build is utilizing Jag DR-1 dbl flange rears for now, but will probably need to go to an Eagle silli foam. Using a narrowed stock 4g rear axle. The front end is a narrowed VPR Razor set up. The body mounts have been removed and a 660slots '69 Camaro Pro Mod body will sit on top of this one. I am ready to start adding the electrical and traction components. I might end up going with an adjustable traction magnet?? I'm enjoying this build. We had a lot of fun running this class.
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Post by dave632 on Jun 28, 2020 8:20:47 GMT -7
Nice work Jeff.
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Post by hairycanary on Jun 28, 2020 12:42:42 GMT -7
Jeff very impressive workmanship. Looks very tedious. But very cool and rewarding when your finished.
Rick
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Post by swiftkart on Jun 28, 2020 18:33:05 GMT -7
Wow is right! What a work of art.
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Post by AJR on Jul 2, 2020 18:12:47 GMT -7
I have installed the braids and shunts the same way I always do. I do flatten the step on the pick ups before installing the braid. But I have run into the first problem. The motor that was sent was a DC motor 1.8ohm neutral timing. It turns out the motor is too thick and binds between the top plate and the chassis. Not sure why it's like that?? This is an AW chassis and normally the armature shaft hole needs to be modified for a mean green to work, that is not the case here. Contingency plan......I have a couple of motors that I can use and I will just have them replaced. One is a Sgrigs Yellow Jacket 3ohm w/max timing and the other is a Screaming Eagle 2.1ohm w/max timing. I am more familiar with the 3ohm because that is what is in my cars, but I have elected to go with the Eagle 2.1ohm motor. I just got it about a month ago. I will be using some fairly strong poly motor magnets but I do have some neos that I might try. Car will run at 22v and I just don't think that will sustain a neo magnet and might not be enough for a low ohm pancake arm?? They like a lot of volts and amps. We shall see. 
Left 3ohm Sgrigs arm......right 2.2ohm Eagle Racing arm.
The Sgrigs arm is a treasure because you can't get them anymore. I have 4 of them. One is an original quadralam that I had him redo for me. Both Sgrigs and Eagle arms are exceptional performers. I have never blown up either one and have worn out several.
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Post by dave632 on Jul 3, 2020 8:20:14 GMT -7
I have run into that problem with some armatures. Seems like they changed the design just enough to make it tough to put AW arms in AFX chassis and vice versa.
I have removed a little material from the bottom shaft chassis hole and that freed up the arm. With other they were to loose so I had to add shims to the armature
shaft.
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Post by AJR on Jul 3, 2020 8:26:40 GMT -7
This was my last run I made with my orange and white FED unlimited 4g (click on the pic to start the video). It has an Eagle 3ohm arm w/timing and Nacho's Tjet neo motor mags running at 26v. Almost made it to the .3's. That will happen! I am full on into this build and will be doing another one for me after this.
Anybody want to Match race in September?? |
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Post by AJR on Jul 3, 2020 8:39:19 GMT -7
I have run into that problem with some armatures. Seems like they changed the design just enough to make it tough to put AW arms in AFX chassis and vice versa. I have removed a little material from the bottom shaft chassis hole and that freed up the arm. With other they were to loose so I had to add shims to the armature shaft. 
This is what Dave is referring to on removing material from the armature shaft hole on the chassis. This has to be done on the AW chassis when installing a mean green and other armatures. I use a Dremel round cutting bit twisted "by hand" shown in the pic below.. There is a collar or raised portion on the armature shaft that will bind up. That is not the case with my issue though. The DC motor is just too thick period and will not work....at least for this build. Might work in a 3g or 4g AFX chassis. DC motor comm and windings .2225" thick....Sgrigs and Eagle .1955".
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2020 8:53:05 GMT -7
interesting info about the DC armature.
Sgrigg tried 6 lam arms and they were just to thick no matter how thin he sanded the laminates.
all of his t-jet outlaws had the underside of the gear plate hollowed out to accommodate the winds.
don't remember too much about Galinko arms.
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