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Post by cozee on Nov 2, 2018 18:18:08 GMT -7
Bought an "upgraded one, mounted a body (mistakenly added braids) and sent it to Jeff as one of my entries in the Veteran Stock Inline class. It did not run well. After getting it back home. I took the braids off and that didn't help it's performance. After some looking, I noticed how much slop there really is in the rear axle holes, at least on the car I got. I also noticed the way the gear was installed wasn't working too well and the gear was trashed. Since I am home today recovering (read that as sleeping most of the time!!) from a couple procedures this morning, I managed to get downstairs and tinker a little. Rounded up a usable gear, repaired the axle holes, lowered the traction mags, and what a difference in performance. Anyone once else find any issues with a DR1-Drag chassis they may have?
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Post by GTS on Nov 2, 2018 18:37:55 GMT -7
There has been some discussion in this thread. I read it over every once in a while, good info. |
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Post by cozee on Nov 2, 2018 18:55:12 GMT -7
Yeah, saw that, not much after purchase/use discussion. Figured I'd let that thread die as opposed to reading through
it to fond recent data. Thanks!!!!!!
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Post by sandfly on Nov 2, 2018 20:24:15 GMT -7
Bought an "upgraded one, mounted a body (mistakenly added braids) and sent it to Jeff as one of my entries in the Veteran Stock Inline class. It did not run well. After getting it back home. I took the braids off and that didn't help it's performance. After some looking, I noticed how much slop there really is in the rear axle holes, at least on the car I got. I also noticed the way the gear was installed wasn't working too well and the gear was trashed. Since I am home today recovering (read that as sleeping most of the time!!) from a couple procedures this morning, I managed to get downstairs and tinker a little. Rounded up a usable gear, repaired the axle holes, lowered the traction mags, and what a difference in performance. Anyone once else find any issues with a DR1-Drag chassis they may have? I have stopped using these chassis, i also purchased 2 new lower sections to replace the failed ones, the guys in our group are having differing results with these, the are also racing with the magnets exposed, which i think makes them a modified chassis. Hope you can resolve this issue. |
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Post by cozee on Nov 3, 2018 4:07:41 GMT -7
Bought an "upgraded one, mounted a body (mistakenly added braids) and sent it to Jeff as one of my entries in the Veteran Stock Inline class. It did not run well. After getting it back home. I took the braids off and that didn't help it's performance. After some looking, I noticed how much slop there really is in the rear axle holes, at least on the car I got. I also noticed the way the gear was installed wasn't working too well and the gear was trashed. Since I am home today recovering (read that as sleeping most of the time!!) from a couple procedures this morning, I managed to get downstairs and tinker a little. Rounded up a usable gear, repaired the axle holes, lowered the traction mags, and what a difference in performance. Anyone once else find any issues with a DR1-Drag chassis they may have? I have stopped using these chassis, i also purchased 2 new lower sections to replace the failed ones, the guys in our group are having differing results with these, the are also racing with the magnets exposed, which i think makes them a modified chassis. Hope you can resolve this issue. Yes there is no chassis modification allowed in the stock class except for the removal of body mounting ears on AFX chassis. Jeff in his last race did allow cutting of the JAG DR1 chassis in the traction magnet area. I've went beyond cutting to expose the magnets and shimmed them so they are flush with the bottom of the chassis. I had to as when I changed gears to a lower tooth number, the car would spit the axle out when accelerating hard. Dropping the magnets helped to prevent this. The walls of the rear section look to be to thin to allow pinning the rear axle. I feel this chassis would make for too much frustration for a rookie or novice racer, especially when they can buy a VSR bracket car for a Clint Eastwood movie ( A Few Dollars More) or an AW Super III. I will give the TR chassis a try, but not going to buy another DR chassis to race with. |
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Post by AJR on Nov 3, 2018 6:23:45 GMT -7
I have stopped using these chassis, i also purchased 2 new lower sections to replace the failed ones, the guys in our group are having differing results with these, the are also racing with the magnets exposed, which i think makes them a modified chassis. Hope you can resolve this issue. Yes there is no chassis modification allowed in the stock class except for the removal of body mounting ears on AFX chassis. Jeff in his last race did allow cutting of the JAG DR1 chassis in the traction magnet area. I've went beyond cutting to expose the magnets and shimmed them so they are flush with the bottom of the chassis. I had to as when I changed gears to a lower tooth number, the car would spit the axle out when accelerating hard. Dropping the magnets helped to prevent this. The walls of the rear section look to be to thin to allow pinning the rear axle. I feel this chassis would make for too much frustration for a rookie or novice racer, especially when they can buy a VSR bracket car for a Clint Eastwood movie ( A Few Dollars More) or an AW Super III. I will give the TR chassis a try, but not going to buy another DR chassis to race with. The only reason that I allowed that modification in Stock Inline is because it won't go down the track at 18v without it. The traction magnets are more than strong enough, but covered up they hardly had any downforce at all. I wanted that chassis and the TR-3 chassis to run because several racers had been working on them and nobody was really sure of their potential yet. I agree that makes them not Stock anymore, but it had to be done. I guess I have been lucky....I have not had any problems with the two that I have bought. They responded to the same tweaks and are both top performers. I really like the chassis and especially the quality of the wheels. I now substitute these for my 4 gear junk wheels on everything. |
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Post by sandfly on Nov 3, 2018 12:55:45 GMT -7
Must admit the dr1 rear wheels are spot on. I also use these on quite a few of my racers
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Post by jbailey on Nov 3, 2018 14:31:48 GMT -7
I bought my DR-1 from Jag on their ebay store and haven't done anything but oil and run it. My rear axle wiggles slighty but, seems to be within tolerances of all my other cars. I think mine must have stronger traction mags as it sticks to the rails as well as my new AW 4 gears cars. I'm not sure if Jag changed anything as production went or not.
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Post by onefastmustang on Nov 8, 2018 16:01:50 GMT -7
Great info guys , I’m getting ready to purchase a couple but couldn’t decide whether to buy stock ones from Jags or upgraded ones from Viper racing . Had been hearing several guys say things about the gears
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Post by ecbill on Nov 8, 2018 21:39:38 GMT -7
The DR1 has been a pretty good chassis for me. The biggest problem I've had is poor contact between the pick up shoes and brush tubes. Of course shunts takes care of that but you can't run shunts in the stock class.
Jag was aware of the shoe problem and has come out with new shoes.
The TR3 I purchased recently had a warning that they are not lubed from the factory so you must lube the points where the axle contacts the chassis, before use.
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Post by AJR on Nov 9, 2018 8:02:53 GMT -7
The DR1 has been a pretty good chassis for me. The biggest problem I've had is poor contact between the pick up shoes and brush tubes. Of course shunts takes care of that but you can't run shunts in the stock class. Jag was aware of the shoe problem and has come out with new shoes. The TR3 I purchased recently had a warning that they are not lubed from the factory so you must lube the points where the axle contacts the chassis, before use. I forgot about the shoe issue. I think I did post on it though when I was originally tweaking it. I found a drill bit that was the same diameter as the brush tube and re contoured the pick up hanger to fit snug on the brush tube. Worked all edges of shoe with a round file to remove any flashing....and there was a lot. Hangers sit flat on tube now. That mod made a pretty big difference. Also had to play around with the pick up springs to get them to ride properly on the rail. |
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Post by cozee on Nov 9, 2018 9:30:18 GMT -7
The DR1 has been a pretty good chassis for me. The biggest problem I've had is poor contact between the pick up shoes and brush tubes. Of course shunts takes care of that but you can't run shunts in the stock class. Jag was aware of the shoe problem and has come out with new shoes. The TR3 I purchased recently had a warning that they are not lubed from the factory so you must lube the points where the axle contacts the chassis, before use. I forgot about the shoe issue. I think I did post on it though when I was originally tweaking it. I found a drill bit that was the same diameter as the brush tube and re contoured the pick up hanger to fit snug on the brush tube. Worked all edges of shoe with a round file to remove any flashing....and there was a lot. Hangers sit flat on tube now. That mod made a pretty big difference. Also had to play around with the pick up springs to get them to ride properly on the rail. I cut my magnet car teeth on the original G-Plus cars so I did all this right out of the box. I also added stiffer pick-up shoe springs as the stock are weak. I have solved the gear issue by using one with a tooth side boss. Car is running pretty good at the moment but since I don't have a timing system in place, I don't have any comparable data to go off of, yet!! |
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Post by dave632 on Nov 22, 2018 16:16:35 GMT -7
If you look at the results from Jeff's last race the #1 & 2 qualifiers are both DR chassis. All stock except for a gear change and the lowered magnets, the magnets work fine on the TR chassis but the larger wheels of the DR bring the tires to far above the track to be effective so lowering the magnets is absolutely essential to make the chassis work. These chassis were on par with the BSRT chassis I prepared for Jeff's race and were even slightly quicker.
Don't know why but all the Jag DR/TR chassis I bought have had no problems and on my track they both were running in the high .4s which is top notch for a 6 ohm chassis. Only the BSRT chassis was able to come close to those times, all the rest were a tenth or more behind which in this type racing is night and day.
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Post by ecbill on Nov 24, 2018 21:35:15 GMT -7
If you look at the results from Jeff's last race the #1 & 2 qualifiers are both DR chassis. All stock except for a gear change and the lowered magnets, the magnets work fine on the TR chassis but the larger wheels of the DR bring the tires to far above the track to be effective so lowering the magnets is absolutely essential to make the chassis work. These chassis were on par with the BSRT chassis I prepared for Jeff's race and were even slightly quicker. Don't know why but all the Jag DR/TR chassis I bought have had no problems and on my track they both were running in the high .4s which is top notch for a 6 ohm chassis. Only the BSRT chassis was able to come close to those times, all the rest were a tenth or more behind which in this type racing is night and day. Dave, You're getting amazing results from the DR chassis. Was it necessary to change both the crown and the pinion, since the DR1 gears seem to have a finer pitch than most of the other common brands? |
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Post by dave632 on Nov 25, 2018 8:26:54 GMT -7
Yes changed both Crown and Pinion gears. The Crown gear has to be custom fit. Out of the box they run OK, I was able to get them to run in the high 6s but the traction magnets are way to high to be effective. They should have been made adjustable. They work OK in the TR chassis because the wheels are smaller and the magnets sit closer to the track. The main things I worked on were the front pickups, gearing, and most important traction magnet height.
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