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Post by dave632 on Jun 23, 2019 19:44:50 GMT -7
Sounds interesting.
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Post by hairycanary on Jun 24, 2019 22:20:30 GMT -7
I didn't want to start a new thread but this tip was magnet related. I picked this 8X10 dry erase magnetic board up at Office Depot I think for around $6 ? I got it to set up the magnets and write down the readings then match them up. Its works really good but mine kinda of got out of hand and turned into a total chaos   Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr |
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Post by GTS on Jun 25, 2019 4:28:12 GMT -7
This is perfect for my needs, Rick. Thanks for sharing! Just yesterday I was trying to come up with something similar to work with. This will fit the bill! Thanks again  |
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Post by dave632 on Jun 25, 2019 7:03:39 GMT -7
I put a number on each of my magnets and then matched the closest pairs. The board should make it a little easier.
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Post by AJR on Jun 25, 2019 15:41:42 GMT -7
I like that idea!
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Post by GTS on Jun 27, 2019 7:05:43 GMT -7
This link takes you to an article by K&J Magnetics, Inc., that explains how to make a magnet meter, that for all intents and purposes, appears to be the same as what is offered by NYModifieds. I'm not trying to slight NYModifieds (it's still a screaming deal, IMO) but I know some like to DIY. I did a bunch of calculations and both the NYModifieds & K&J Magnetics offer the same gauss readings using the same base voltage & measured voltage calculations. The formula that is used is:
Base voltage
Minus measured voltage That result divided by .0013 Equals the approximate gauss value Note: the number being positive or negative on the gauss reading would determine the polarity of the magnet.
Example: 2.52 = base voltage reading 3.73 = measured voltage reading -1.21 = result to be divided by .0013 -931 = approximate gauss reading
Example w/other polarity, same magnet: 2.52 1.31
1.21 931
Or one can use the offered charts. I found the calculations done on a calculator easier for me, YMMV.
Note: the different "measured voltage readings" are a result of which surface of the chip one places on the magnet. All other known variables for measuring magnets also come into play but this is the basics. Hope this helps |
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Post by AJR on Jun 27, 2019 8:41:17 GMT -7
This link takes you to an article by K&J Magnetics, Inc., that explains how to make a magnet meter, that for all intents and purposes, appears to be the same as what is offered by NYModifieds. I'm not trying to slight NYModifieds (it's still a screaming deal, IMO) but I know some like to DIY. I did a bunch of calculations and both the NYModifieds & K&J Magnetics offer the same gauss readings using the same base voltage & measured voltage calculations. The formula that is used is:
Base voltage
Minus measured voltage That result divided by .0013 Equals the approximate gauss value Note: the number being positive or negative on the gauss reading would determine the polarity of the magnet. Example: 2.52 = base voltage reading 3.73 = measured voltage reading -1.21 = result to be divided by .0013 -931 = approximate gauss reading Example w/other polarity, same magnet: 2.52 1.31
1.21 931 Or one can use the offered charts. I found the calculations done on a calculator easier for me, YMMV.
Note: the different "measured voltage readings" are a result of which surface of the chip one places on the magnet. All other known variables for measuring magnets also come into play but this is the basics. Hope this helps Gale you are awesome with all the cool info you find! I love do it yourself stuff and will probably give this a try at some point. Very cool........thank you! |
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Post by GTS on Jun 27, 2019 17:27:05 GMT -7
Thanks Jeff, seems like an easy enough project and I'm really liking the one I got.
Put in an order to Jag for some stuff and included a couple pair of the OS3 black dot magnets. Thought I'd see how they compared with the Dash magnets I had in my T-Jet Gassers. They are pretty similar in readings. The ones on the right side are the OS3's & Dash. The ones on the left side are AFX 4 gear. Just passin' on info
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Post by gibbo61 on Jun 28, 2019 5:43:51 GMT -7
I didn't want to start a new thread but this tip was magnet related. I picked this 8X10 dry erase magnetic board up at Office Depot I think for around $6 ? I got it to set up the magnets and write down the readings then match them up. Its works really good but mine kinda of got out of hand and turned into a total chaos Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr |
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Post by dave632 on Jan 1, 2020 18:34:04 GMT -7
More magnet info:
Bought some of the new Dash ceramic AFX and AFX Magnatraction magnets. Got some really weird readings on these
magnets. I read the side that faces the armature and got pretty normal ceramic readings in the 7-800 gauss range. Checked the
outside for a reading and got almost double the reading of 14-1500 and they were all like that. Tried them in some of the 4G stocks
I am sending to GTSs race and performance suffered. I lost about 2 MPH and about .1 in ET. Tried them in a gasser and they still lost
MPH but the ET was close but still slightly slower. Seems like they need a more powerful armature. My guess is that the back side of
the magnet has a different kind of magnet material than the face side. Never saw that kind of difference between the face and backside,
usually only a small difference.
Has anyone else tried these and had similar actions or did you get different results???
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Post by ecbill on Jan 1, 2020 20:03:47 GMT -7
More magnet info:
Bought some of the new Dash ceramic AFX and AFX Magnatraction magnets. Got some really weird readings on these
magnets. I read the side that faces the armature and got pretty normal ceramic readings in the 7-800 gauss range. Checked the
outside for a reading and got almost double the reading of 14-1500 and they were all like that. Tried them in some of the 4G stocks
I am sending to GTSs race and performance suffered. I lost about 2 MPH and about .1 in ET. Tried them in a gasser and they still lost
MPH but the ET was close but still slightly slower. Seems like they need a more powerful armature. My guess is that the back side of
the magnet has a different kind of magnet material than the face side. Never saw that kind of difference between the face and backside,
usually only a small difference.
Has anyone else tried these and had similar actions or did you get different results??? The yellow and black ones I bought were too tight for one of my Tjet chassis. It put the axle in a bind. Had to pull it out with pliers and ended up chipping an edge removing them. Haven't done gauss reading on them yet. Also have some of what Dash call the Mondo magnets. They look similarly sized. Been tinkering with some Dash chassis' for the race but not getting the desired results. The brush springs don't seem to apply enough pressure. I may want to try some of the blue and white magnets and see it that helps. |
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Post by dave632 on Jan 1, 2020 21:21:13 GMT -7
Bill the Dash blue and white magnets seem to be the best for T jet and AFX stock chassis, the newer Dash magnets with the white stripe seem to be stronger but not right for a stocker or even a mild modified. Like I said I even lost top end power on chassis with 6 ohm arms. They were superior in the 60 foot department close in the 330 but by the 660 they had fallen behind.
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Post by ecbill on Jan 9, 2020 9:41:03 GMT -7
Awhile ago I read that the new Dash magnets had substantially more downforce than the blue and whites. The greater strength on the back side may be intentional.
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Post by dave632 on Jan 9, 2020 10:23:50 GMT -7
Don't know how you make a magnet with different forces on opposite sides but they did it. I think for a road race car they would be good because of the extra downforce. but unless we are running 1-2 ohm arms they will not work for our drag cars.
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Post by ecbill on Jan 9, 2020 20:17:55 GMT -7
The ones with the blue or white stripe are composite magnets. Maybe they can bias the magnetic strength as they choose.
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