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Post by lasthobbypromise on Jun 24, 2021 16:01:58 GMT -7
Safest way to remove paint. I believe an older Aurora. ![]()  |
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Post by skillet on Jun 24, 2021 16:24:24 GMT -7
Rubbing alcohol. Dip it in for a little while. Clean up with qtip. Hard spots you can hit with a pink eraser.
Easy off oven cleaner. Put car in zip lock bag spray oven cleaner in and zip up over night. Clean off with paper towel or qtip harder stuff may need 2 times.
I've done both ways on that same body. People freak out over the oven cleaner but it's my favorite.
The oven cleaner hasn't attacked Aurora plastic in my experience. Other plastic may be a different story.
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Post by crazynski on Jun 24, 2021 18:05:56 GMT -7
Hello LHP, I use Super Clean degreaser. It is safe for plastic models and works great.  I bought this old Aurora Porsche that someone pretty much ruined before I got it.  24-hours in Super Clean and...  Cheers, Ken |
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Post by crazynski on Jun 25, 2021 9:37:32 GMT -7
Interesting thing is Super Clean is time sensitive. I pulled the body out at the 18-hour mark and saw half the original Aurora red stripe. I realized that I might have been able to save the entire red stripe had I pulled the body out of the tuperware container at the 12-hour mark. Live and learn.  After losing most of the stripe. It went back in the tub of Super Clean for a few hours to remove the entire stripe. I then held the body under water until it turned this lovely shade of lime green. Or something like that.  I have left cars with hard/tough paint in Super Clean for 72-hours, and it never affected the plastic at all. Super Clean is also safe on most windshields made of clear styrene. Cheers, Ken |
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Post by mazda on Jun 25, 2021 11:10:55 GMT -7
I use a product called Modelstrip, I don’t know if it’s available in the States.
It is a paste which is applied to the body which is then sealed in a plastic bag and left overnight. It is then washed off in water and brushed off with an old toothbrush. It is very effective and does not damage the plastic in any way.
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Post by ecbill on Jun 25, 2021 11:13:40 GMT -7
Interesting thing is Super Clean is time sensitive. I pulled the body out at the 18-hour mark and saw half the original Aurora red stripe. I realized that I might have been able to save the entire red stripe had I pulled the body out of the tuperware container at the 12-hour mark. Live and learn. View AttachmentAfter losing most of the stripe. It went back in the tub of Super Clean for a few hours to remove the entire stripe. I then held the body under water until it turned this lovely shade of lime green. Or something like that. View AttachmentI have left cars with hard/tough paint in Super Clean for 72-hours, and it never affected the plastic at all. Super Clean is also safe on most windshields made of clear styrene. Cheers, Ken What’s in your water up there😳 |
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Post by skillet on Jun 25, 2021 12:27:07 GMT -7
That's not water...It's leprechaun juice
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Post by crazynski on Jun 25, 2021 14:45:38 GMT -7
Monkberry moon delight!  Or... Tamiya TS-52 candy lime green also works well with a shot of gloss clear-coat. |
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Post by ecbill on Jun 26, 2021 6:26:06 GMT -7
Have to keep that Super Clean in mind. You probably get a whole gallon for what I pay for about a pint of the stuff I use. Been using scale coat which is popular with model railroaders. Works good but can’t help thinking it smells just like some common household cleaning product. They probably buy that for $2 a bottle, pour half in a small bottle and sell it for $16.99.
Only problem I’ve had with scale coat was that it softened and distorted a translucent AW first lap body. It also destroyed a resin body left in too long. My fault for leaving them in too long.
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Post by ecbill on Jul 26, 2021 4:26:59 GMT -7
Found some of that Super Clean at Wally World. Decided to do an experiment do compare it with Scale Coat stripper.
Put JL Nomad bodies in each. After an hour the Scale Coat body was good enough to rinse and paint. The Super Clean had softened the paint some. Let it continue to soak overnight. Next day paint was still gummy. Scrubbed it with an acid brush that has a short haircut. Most of the paint came off. Still had some paint in corners, & crevices.
Put it in Scale Coat to clean it up.
Both did the job. Scale Coat did a better job and did it faster. It should be mentioned that both bodies had factory paint which is usually more stubborn than model paint. Betting that Super Clean would do much better on Testors or similar paint.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2021 4:34:55 GMT -7
Purple Power is another good paint remover.
especially if you are trying to remove after market paint and leave the original Aurora paint alone.
must be checked occasionally.
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Post by crazynski on Jul 26, 2021 6:27:12 GMT -7
Al, good point. Purple Power is basically Super Clean under another brand name. Depends what brand your hardware store sells.
El Camino Bill. Scale Coat sounds faster and more aggressive. It's a possibility that the risk of body damage may increase with the strength of the product.
As Al also mentioned. Had I removed the Porsche from the Super Clean early, I might have saved the original Aurora red stripe. Scale Coat might be too fast to give you that option.
I have left some bodies soak in Super Clean for 3-days without harming the plastic.
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Post by ecbill on Jul 26, 2021 13:00:40 GMT -7
Most hard plastic bodies do well in Scale Coat even after a few days. It will strip everything off.
You must be real careful with resins. They’ll crumble in SC. One 1st Lap body got forgotten and deformed. Be careful with them.
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Post by ecbill on Aug 7, 2021 11:43:27 GMT -7
Tried a Brown Nomad in Scale Coat and it took longer than the blue. So, Super Clean may not be much slower.
Put a red chrome Cuda in Super Clean which was stripped nearly clean in a few hours. Seemed to do better than past chrome bodies did in Scale Coat.
Instead of crinkling up the chrome turned to slime.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2021 13:42:50 GMT -7
Windex/ammonia works good for removing chrome
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