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Post by pete on Jan 29, 2024 16:24:01 GMT -7
Arms that are in slot cars are designed to run at 9 -12 volts. 24 volts at twice the voltage spec is asking a lot from the motors. From what I see, 18 volts they can run all day. 20 volts they can run all day. 24 volts your eating parts up.
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Post by skillet on Jan 30, 2024 7:06:48 GMT -7
Aw power the problem is the amps.
As far as the aftermarket power. I leave mine at 20v with amps all the way up.
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Post by spereira on Jan 30, 2024 12:35:07 GMT -7
Thanks to you both, pete and skillet.
Yes, I have my power supply set to allow up to it's max, 10 Amps.
I've been running at 16 Volts, as with the original wall wart. Just curious about what other folks do for their Voltage.
smp
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2024 15:53:58 GMT -7
Chances are those little light weight power supplies ( wall warts ) are not delivering a full 16 volts when loaded down! When the time comes invest in a better power supply. Many here can steer you onto those that are available.
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Post by crazynski on Jan 30, 2024 16:12:58 GMT -7
This is a "Nice Power" supply. It says so right on the front.  It's what I'm using on a routed 1/32 track, and another on an HO track. From Amazon.  |
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Post by spereira on Jan 30, 2024 16:59:25 GMT -7
Folks, back in post #4, I indicated I purchased this power supply: Jesverty DC Power Supply Variable, 0-30V 0-10A Adjustable Switching DC Regulated Bench Power Supply with Encoder Knob, Output On/Off Switch, 4-Digit LED Display, 5V/2A USB Charging Port - SPS-3010H a.co/d/cBzmLCwNow that I have my better power supply, I was interested in what voltage range I could safely use. Thanks again for offering your help - but you already have helped, and I already have listened!  smp |
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Post by spereira on Feb 28, 2024 14:06:08 GMT -7
Today, I finally purchased the last table I needed to complete my scale 1/4 mile track. The track measures 20 feet, 7 3/4 inches, Start Line to Finish Line. If my calculation is correct, that is 20.64583 feet. Looks like I'm a tiny bit over the 20.625 feet for an accurate scale 1/4 mile. Hmmm... My stock, out-of-the-box AW cars run this in about 2.0 seconds. Photos here: www.flickr.com/photos/200034908@N05/Comments please! smp |
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Post by sandfly on Feb 28, 2024 15:00:08 GMT -7
looks good, whats the spark run thing. you should be able to get those cars down to 1.2's with a little fettling. Are you using power taps on the track.
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Post by spereira on Feb 28, 2024 15:41:07 GMT -7
The SparkFun is an Arduino - I bought a kit and a book to home-brew a timer for one lane.
That’s how I know my stock out-of-the-box cars are running about 2.0 seconds, and that’s what I’ll use to measure how much better or worse performance I get from my fiddling.
The track started off as an AW set, so that’s how I connect power and controllers.
What is a power tap, and how do you use it?
smp
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Post by dynomike on Feb 28, 2024 20:00:36 GMT -7
It seems that you are coming along at a rapid pace. Since you are familiar with arduino, you might consider downloading dragrace coordinator. It will take you to a new level.
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Post by spereira on Mar 1, 2024 19:55:54 GMT -7
I haven’t been at this for very long, but I’m trying to grow my experience in a slow-but-sure manner.
I started out with the AW drag strip setup because it had the cool looking Start Line lights and the Win lights on the Finish Line. That got me my first two AW 4-Gear Xtraction cars. I purchased more AW 4-Gear Xtraction cars, because I didn’t know any better and I love the beautiful bodies they make.
Over the time that I’ve been building up my track, I fiddled with some of those cars that didn’t work well, managing to mangle some pickup shoes, lose pickup springs, and even pop out a brush. I pretty much hate the way the 4-Gear cars pickup springs are installed, and I’m not happy with the way the brushes don’t really stay fit well in place, either.
Today, I received my first T-Jet. Right out of the box, it runs smoothly, but it’s a little slower than my AW cars that are working well. Giving it a look-over, I’m much happier with how the pickup springs AND the brushes are installed. The T-Jet seems to be a more robust design, and seems to (hopefully) be easier to work on.
So, as I continue on the path of working on these cars, I want to purchase the special tools I’ll be needing. Please post your suggestions for what I should buy to get started. I’d appreciate both “get this” advice as well as “avoid this” advice, please. Also, since I’ve been doing pancake cars so far, will there be different tools to go along with in-line cars?
Thanks, in advance for any advice you may have to offer.
smp
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Post by Steve-E-D on Mar 1, 2024 22:38:06 GMT -7
The JAG DR-1 is a great replacement for AW 4 Gear chassis. It is a modern inline motor design. AW makes some great bodies, but the quality control on their chassis is pretty bad. That is not to say that you can't build a screaming fast AW 4G but out of the box is a crap shoot.
Out of the box the DR-1 will make you smile. Tuning will take it to the next level.
One dire warning: JAG chassis do not arrive lubricated. A drop of oil at each motor bushing is critical before first run.
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Post by dynomike on Mar 2, 2024 6:24:17 GMT -7
The first 3 items I would go for.
Items 164-300 and 164-320 from Scale Engineering. rt-300 from rt-ho. Scale engineering is currently out of the tire press but, Harding creek slots has them.
There is also a simple pinion tool for inlines, but I don't have a part number.
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Post by spereira on Mar 2, 2024 9:02:14 GMT -7
The JAG DR-1 is a great replacement for AW 4 Gear chassis. That's funny. I purchased one, and it has run so crappy no matter what I did to try to get good contact between the shoes and the track. I finally just put it away - and you notice that I did not even mention it. smp |
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Post by pennywize619 on Mar 2, 2024 15:23:26 GMT -7
The JAG DR-1 is a great replacement for AW 4 Gear chassis. That's funny. I purchased one, and it has run so crappy no matter what I did to try to get good contact between the shoes and the track. I finally just put it away - and you notice that I did not even mention it. smp I had one that did that. It turned out the brush spring had pretty much melted in the holder. I was only running 20 volts so that really shouldn't have happened. |
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