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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2008 21:41:06 GMT -7
1st time posting here for me ,i have been drag racing 1/24th scale cars for about 6years now and i don't like the lack of rule enforcement that is going on right now and I'm looking for help on building a HO 1/4 mile track in my basement .i have a trakemate timing system dragpro 2.1 but I'm not sure i have the right sensors i have the u shaped ones not the photo sensors . next i used to be a cabinet maker by trade so i would like to build my own track but i have no idea the length of the track i have seen all different sizes here i have 21 ft total to work with ,not sure the spacing for the groove slot and for the rail slot and what to use for the rails themselves ,i would like the track to be the same as what you would run at a national level but under powered till i see if it catches on with my other friends if it does i will spend the dough for power supplies or batteries witch would be my next question which is better ? i like the safety of the power supplies but if all the big tracks use batteries then that is what we will do ,and last but not least i have seen the the websites for the bodies but i don't see anywhere to but the hi-po slot car part needed for drag racing ,any help would be great and thanks for you time p.s. my website for the cars i have built is www.phatratcustoms.com thanks again
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2008 21:52:53 GMT -7
1st time posting here for me ,i have been drag racing 1/24th scale cars for about 6years now and i don't like the lack of rule enforcement that is going on right now and I'm looking for help on building a HO 1/4 mile track in my basement .i have a trakemate timing system dragpro 2.1 but I'm not sure i have the right sensors i have the u shaped ones not the photo sensors . next i used to be a cabinet maker by trade so i would like to build my own track but i have no idea the length of the track i have seen all different sizes here i have 21 ft total to work with ,not sure the spacing for the groove slot and for the rail slot and what to use for the rails themselves ,i would like the track to be the same as what you would run at a national level but under powered till i see if it catches on with my other friends if it does i will spend the dough for power supplies or batteries witch would be my next question which is better ? i like the safety of the power supplies but if all the big tracks use batteries then that is what we will do ,and last but not least i have seen the the websites for the bodies but i don't see anywhere to but the hi-po slot car part needed for drag racing ,any help would be great and thanks for you time p.s. my website for the cars i have built is www.phatratcustoms.com thanks again Dude...You came to the right place. I'm pretty new here too and this is one of the best sites I've belonged to and I've been doing this for almost 40 years. Plenty of Body builders here, SKR, Kdog , the Mead Bros. to start and a slew of others you will see posting. The best tracks Ive seen at www.slorcarsinc.com. I have one as several members here. You "might" be able to build one for a little less, but you can't build a nicer one. There's a Member here called Grumpy that sell them to the group for even less. Look for his post. I'll leave the rest of your questions to the more "advance" among us. Welcome aboard, Good Luck...and Enjoy!!
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Post by Demon340 on Dec 6, 2008 4:19:55 GMT -7
Hey PHATRAT Welcome to Psycho Slots HO Drag Racing. I've been a member since Feb. 08 I found out about HO Drag Racing in Dec. 07 and got hooked on it. There's a lot of good people here and the mail away race's are a blast. Rule's do get changed here but it's alway's for the good to make sure everybody here has fun and fair for all of us. Yeah we do have smack talk but it's all for fun and entertainment. I buy most of my parts from Lucky Bob's Racway there are other place's to go to TSS Hobbies have other link's to go too. I went to you website saw the car's you build very cool There is a lot of Info and tip's here on the message board and Sam is very helpful on tip's. Your going to have a great time here with us at Psycho Slot. DEMON 340
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Post by scottman2007 on Dec 6, 2008 12:33:12 GMT -7
Welcome Phatrat, I too once raced 1/24 scale drag cars and I got out of it long ago because of the crapy rules being broken all the time and then the extremely high cost of parts,sorry iam not spending over $200 to $300 a car to run something other than Bracket. Here at Psycho slots everyone here is a great group of people who like drag racing and not emptying out your wallet,unlike 24th scale,bascially there are no secrets here anybody at anytime will give you all the tips to go fast,Most of the cars we run are T-Jets, this keeps cost down,but they are a blast to race,We are having a Pro Stock Race at the end Of january,Now this race is Under IRSA rules,chassis other than T-Jets,Spend some time on here and go through alot of the post here and do some catching up,also on here are the Mead Brothers,they make the Best Drag racing HO Bodies Out there,From Rat Rods to nostalgia Funny cars to Gassers,and even modern Top Fuel Bodies. I have been Here since April Of 2007,and It is so much fun to race these Proxy races,You Build the car, Ship it to the track and they race it,with Live Results.I know your not racing the car yourself But trust me the night of Quals and The Race, You feel you are when your car comes up on the Page for Next in line to race,you are as excited as if you are there,at least thats the way I feel.So please stay on here do alot of reading and looking at the Pictures posted and you will be hooked like everyone else here,and on this site there is no Bad words between any of us,and Drama Free,LOL. Hope you will sign up for the Pro stock nationals, you still have Plenty of Time,race isnt til the end Of January,car will cost you with hop ups around $50.00,normally T-jet cars with hop ups will cost you around $25.00 ti $30.00 Sorry I got Winded,LOL Scottman
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Post by allstarhr on Dec 6, 2008 13:39:30 GMT -7
Hi Phatrat, Welcome to the group. Regarding building your track and the "wars" between factions, I feel we've dodged that here with the fact that so far we've welcomed all. High voltage, low voltage, snap-together track, routed, purchased, 1/8th mile, 1/4 mile and anything in between. If it fits your location and your budget, your welcome here. So far the Mail A Way races have all been on different length tracks with different rail heights, surface material and different voltage and amperage. If it was demanded that "all" tracks had to be the same size, length, surface and power, we would not have held vary many races or racers. My suggestion is to pick the length that fits your room and the same with the power. Don't worry about force fitting your stuff to someones idea of the only way to go. The rules for the cars for the actual race are much more important. For instance, if I know I'm sending my car to Tim Ranch's track in St. Louis, I know I've got to gear it for his length and power which is different than Psycho Sam's track in Colorado Springs. Frankly, I think it adds to the fun and makes it harder for one person to constantly kick our butts. If someone becomes the "Alan Johnson" of HO Drags, so be it and they deserve it. JMO...AUW...JAMW. (Just my opionion...and usually wrong...just ask my wife.)
I decided on just an 1/87th scale 1/8th mile track at my house since it fit the room well. We have now held races monthly for over two years and are having fun. Key word with us is "FUN". If it isn't fun then I don't want to do it. I've gone with a lower 18 volts on one power supply for each lane even though I can raise it. We did it so the reaction time is not as important since the slower the car, the more the differences between the cars will show up and keep it from just being a reaction time race. Reaction time races to me might as well be done with one of the Drag Racing computer games available. My track uses a different wire than most, has a Formica surface, different "wire height", and 18 volts at 10 amps for each lane, plus we use track supplied Parma 45 controllers for each lane so the hit at the start is not as hard as an "off/on" switch. (reduces the need for wheelie bars on every car and makes it harder for a car to exactly repeat an ET over and over. Leads to more winners and not just the same one over and over.) I doubt if anyone else will ever have a track like mine since we've made different decisions than others and that's cool with me. They are having fun with their tracks and so are we. It's the way it should be.
(Heck of a soap box I'm on, huh? This long enough to qualify for collecting an offering?) Ah! Passion for the hobby. It's here and welcome to the group! allstarhr
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Post by chima on Dec 6, 2008 14:28:51 GMT -7
Welcome to Psycho Slots Phatrat! We hope you enjoy the forum. Nice looking cars on your site. That is so cool you are going to build your own track! Chuck, David and Sam helped a little too built our track out of MDF board and we all love it. There's nothing like building your own track. Since you are into cabinetry I bet your track will be amazing! Some of the members here have Slot Car Inc tracks and like those too. It would be great if you took some pictures of your track build and submitted them here on the forum so we can all see the process you go through for your build. We'd love to see it. You'll find the NTRA (National Thunder Rod Association) here on Psycho Slots which races only T jets. Most of the national proxy race events are held at our track ISRA (Indepent Slot Rod Association) and we think it's really cool that some clubs across the US have adopted our rules in the MM/PS class. Tim Ranch & Kdog have hosted a national proxy race as well which was very cool. When you get your track going you are more than welcome to adopt our rules or go with your own club rules. We all have a lot of fun here on Psycho Slots and are thrilled that clubs from all over feel they can come here and get along. If your wanting to get high po parts for your cars we buy ours from Lucky Bobs. There is a direct link on the bottom of the home page. We hope you'll join in on the national proxy race coming up in Jan. I'm so happy everyone enjoys the live posting coverage because I really enjoy doing it. I have to admit though...my trigger finger gets itchy and I really want to run the cars down the track LOL!
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Post by da big ragu on Dec 6, 2008 17:51:55 GMT -7
phatrat da big ragoooo
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Post by SKR on Dec 6, 2008 20:06:52 GMT -7
Welcome Phatrat. Great looking cars
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2008 8:29:10 GMT -7
THANKS GUYS FOT THE COMPS AND THE INFO , CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE TO GET THE POWER RAILS THAT GO IN THE TRACK
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Post by SKR on Dec 9, 2008 12:33:37 GMT -7
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Post by ninjatek on Dec 9, 2008 12:35:57 GMT -7
I am in no way an expert at track building, but I have done extensive research over the past year. It appears to me that the most home built tracks use rebar wire (usually available at Home Depot). A few others use copper tape (available at ncphobbies.com). I have found a rare few builders that use fish tape (most hardware or Home depot or electrical supply house).
What you use will depend on your building skills.
Copper Tape track. The easiest of these would be the copper tape. As this is for drag racing, you would route a straight line and apply the copper tape along the side(s) of the routed line. The copper tape has an adhesive on the backside.
Rebar wire and fish tape. Both of these just involve more measuring for the additional routed lines for the power rails.
I will soon be building a track. I plan to build two types. For a smaller 1/8th mile (~11') practice track I will use copper tape. The second track I intend to build will be a full 1/4 mile (~20') track using fish tape.
Things to consider. Although the copper tape a little easier, it may require more maintenance and may not be as durable. Over time the copper will surely tarnish and corrode, and eventually become damaged from cleaning. Rebar wire or fish tape much more durable and will not wear due to maintenace. I am going with the fish tape because I believe it to be easier to lay at a consistent height.
Hope this helps.
Would like to hear some opinions from those who built their own track.
ninjatek
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Post by johnbalich on Dec 9, 2008 13:23:56 GMT -7
ninja........when you build a track, how about a play by play???
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Post by SKR on Dec 9, 2008 15:19:57 GMT -7
We used .062 piano wire on our track. We power tapped it to each wire.
The copper tape would work but if your racing anything with some speed to it your not going to have any magnetic downforce to hold the car to the track. Also I'm not sure maybe someone that has tried it can answer but it seems to me that all your cars would have to have braided pick up shoes on them.
The rebar wire works good and is very cheap but it is hard to get each section straight with no kinks in the wire. Fish tape line looks like a good source for wire if you get the right stuff. I think they make some of it out of different materials. Hilltop uses this stuff. What kind are you using HT?
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Post by ninjatek on Dec 9, 2008 16:31:34 GMT -7
Good point Sam. I had not given consideration to magnetic properties required for downforce. Also, you are probably right about needing braided pickup shoes. Thinking about it, the two solid copper surfaces against each other could create arc burns, especially at the start line. Another minus for copper tape. I think I'll forgo the copper tape practice track and opt for fish tape.
Thanks for the input.
John- When I begin track construction I will post progress in Tech Tips or Getting Staged.
ninjatek
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2009 20:59:36 GMT -7
HI PHATRAT... I HEARD OF YOU IN THE 1/24 SCALE STUFF I TO GOT OUT OF 1/24 I HAD A 1/4 MILE RACEWAY ON LONG ISLAND . NOT ONLY THE STUFF WITH THE RULES BUT THE REST OF THEJUNK THAT GOES ON AT THE TRACK . ANYHOW I CONVERTED MY DRAGPRO 3000 OVER TO AN HO STRIP JUST CALL DAN AT TRACK MATE TO GET THE LIGTH SENCERS THAT WORK WITH OVERHEAD LIGHTS I THINK IT ONLY COST ME JUST UNDER 100.00 TO CHANGE OVER AND ALSO ASK HIM FOR THE EMAIL ADDRESS TO UPGRADE YOUR DRAG PRO TO THE NEW VERISON4.3 HE WILL NEED TO KNOW WHICH BOARD YOU HAVE THE NEWER RED ONE OR THE OLDER GREEN ONE HOPE THIS HELPS TONY
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