painting

thanks for the help to strip the paint i used oven cleaner ( easy off )and sealed the body in a small box
for about 18 hrs and most of the paint was peeled off
we have try Dupli-Color paint on 1/24 model cars work very well

is winter ever going to end LOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Ron Bondo. Will the Duplicolor Automotive paint stick to an enamal primer? I got some acrylic laquer that dosen't seem to want to stick on any thing. Never had this problem.

Nosub...here's a good rule of thumb when painting. You can use enamel over anything, or lacquer under anything. But most of the time, do not use lacquer over enamel. I say most of the time because I have had a very rare instance where I managed to use a 'modified' enamel over lacquer. Usually what happens if you use enamel underneath is 'lifting' or 'crazing'. This is because enamel actually dries from the outside in. It flashes off faster so it traps solvents underneath, and takes more time to 'gas out' (Solvents need to evaporate completely to be dry) whereas lacquer dries from the inside out, and as a result dries much faster, but with less gloss. And, by drying from the inside out, the solvents evaporate very fast, usually by the time you're actually done painting. Now, this will change depending on humidity too, in high humidity situations, lacquer will actually turn 'white'! Sometimes enamel will do this too. A good cure for this is to have a heat gun or hair dryer on standby. Heat the body after you put on a coat, but not so much you cause it to bubble up (or warp the body!). In general, humidity actually will slow down dry times of any type of paint. If you're airbrushing, this is much more controllable. But if your using spray bombs. you really are at a disadvantage before you even start. Altho, cleaning an airbrush IS a messy job, and the spray can cleanup is..well...non existent! LOL!! ;D Also. ALL paints, lacquer or enamel, DO have a 'shelf life'. Not too sure how to read the codes since every mfr uses a different system of coding. Enamels won't work well for long once you actually spray something with them. As you spray, you lose the propellants from the can, which act as a 'preservative' much like packaged food. Once air hits it, the cycle starts. If your using Duplicolor lacquer, try to use either a lacquer based primer under it, or at least stay with some type of Duplicolor primer. Their products are all designed to work together, even the enamel primers (these are what I reffered to as 'modified' enamels). If you do it this way, just be sure to let the primer dry longer before topcoating. If it doesn't say lacquer on the can, it's either a modified enamel or a straight enamel in most cases. Duplicolor topcoats are always lacquers, unless the can says otherwise. And stay AWAY from the "99 cent special" primers at WallyWorld or somewhere else! These cause a LOT more problems than they're worth!
Did this help or just confuse you more? LOL! Let me know if you need more explanation or clarification. Like Hilltop says..whenever possible, just stick with a plan someone else has already developed! ;D And btw..the primer Hilltop posted is the exact same primer I use under EVERY kind of paint. Never had any probs.
Ron (Bondo)

Glad I could help.
Actually, you don't hear a lot of people using the term acrylic before the lacquer anymore. There are a LOT of different types of paint, even going back to the early days of autos. Used to use nitrocellulose lacquer on the Model T's. Talk about SLOOOOW drying! LOL!! That's why it could be brushed on (and it WAS) and the brush strokes would flow out. Usually took close to 3 or 4 days to dry! Then came acrylic lacquer (pioneered by Jon Kosmoski of House of Kolor in 1958..company has been sold several times since then), and alkyd enamel (again, the alkyd was SLOOOOW drying, but not as slow as nitrocellulose, and smoothed out better than the early lacquers and was more forgiving to mistakes), then came acrylic enamel, then urethane enamel, which was a much faster drying paint and smoothed out wayyyy better. Then they went to a basecoat/clearcoat urethane system (early systems used a lacquer basecoat under a urethane clear, but the basecoat was later reformulated to bond better with the clearcoats), and the 'hot' setup now is waterborne paint.
I know..ya didn't ask for that much info...lol. But it might help you some in determining what paint to use in the future.
Ron (Bondo)