Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Jan 25, 2009 10:15:19 GMT -7
OK just an FYI you guys and gals make this whole painting thing look wayyyyyyyyy to easy LOL I had to use a spray can because I didnt have everything I needed for my air brush and now I am trying to sand this little TINY body to get it smooth so just a heads up no laughing when I send it in for the SS race
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Post by dave hochallanged evans on Jan 31, 2009 19:00:50 GMT -7
I,ve sent some pretty crude looking cars to the last two proxy races,they just hide them in the croup shot unless you build ones that are fast,then they have no choice but to get a shot of it crossing the finish line.....I haven't had that problem yet I was worried about my cars , then thought this is about FUN,so do the best you can , enter the car then talk smack and let them wonder whats under the hood ;D
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 1, 2009 5:59:48 GMT -7
That's very true. It's a mopar they already know it has a beast for an engine/motor hmmmmm LOL I am enjoying it. I have to strip it anyway so hopefully my 2nd attempt is better.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2009 13:43:25 GMT -7
help just try to paint my new body and what a mess what paint are you using? ?? i used the new paint from testor one coat lacquer it works great on my 1/24 models but no dice on small stuff please help!!!!!!!!
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Post by kdog on Feb 23, 2009 14:09:25 GMT -7
Hey Mad...I love those colors but not the paint, It's very thick, one coat their not kidding. One thing you can do with rattle can paint is to put HOT TAP water onto a bucket, just enough so your paint can won't float. Give the paint a few minutes in the water, it should atomize the spray better. This works with the other testors laquors, and Tamya paints. If your paint got bloches, and you were painting a resin body, try cleaning the body with Westlys Bleachwhite Tire cleaner first, some times you get a little mold reliese in the pours of the resin that finds it's way out when you paint. DOG
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 23, 2009 14:30:16 GMT -7
Has anyone tried Dupont First Kleen on the resin bodies before. I bought a gallon to clean the areas Im painting on the Duster I was thinking of using it since it is safe to clean enamel & lacquer I assume it is safe to use on resin. But then again I screwed the Cuda body so bad I have to start over and with bondo, I assumed I was doing it right LOL On that note be careful I wanted to strip the paint off the Cuda and I used some Floquil ELO to stripe it it didnt work very quickly so I left it in there for 3/4 days and took the paint off NICE, then I noticed a tiny spec on the hood scoop so using my finger nail I took the spec out and some resin too. The resin had softened so when you take it out use a soft brush to remove the paint then let it sit for a few days so it can harden again, anyway that's where the bondo comes in for the Cuda
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 23, 2009 14:32:27 GMT -7
I am a good resource if you want to know what NOT to do LOL
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Post by kdog on Feb 23, 2009 14:53:28 GMT -7
Floquil ELO will also make plastic brittle I stripped the paint from a bunch of JL willys and eventually every screw post snapped off. The same thing is true with break fluid. If it can be screwed up the Dog has done it already. Sounds like a new thread topic!
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 23, 2009 14:58:19 GMT -7
Floquil ELO will also make plastic brittle I stripped the paint from a bunch of JL willys and eventually every screw post snapped off. The same thing is true with break fluid. If it can be screwed up the Dog has done it already. Sounds like a new thread topic! Sounds like it would be a very popular topic
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 23, 2009 15:08:08 GMT -7
Doing the Color Me Gone paint scheme has taught me a lot about masking and I still dont have it right. first I tried the computer clear label self stick paper on the Cuda that left glue residue like you wouldnt believe. i tried EZ Mask and that works but it is very difficult to get off I had to keep scraping at it with my fingernail (see above post about how well that might work) and then finally got it off. But I have found one foolproof thing that works GREAT WHATEVER YOU WANT TO TRY DO ON A BODY THAT DOESNT MATTER dont try something new on the body that you are sending to a race in two weeks or so.
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Post by johnbalich on Feb 23, 2009 15:18:22 GMT -7
I'll wager that NONE of the expert painters here BEGAN as experts!
I'll further wager that while all of us won't be artistic geniuses, we can all learn to paint fairly well.
2 p's and Im still learning them: PREP and PATIENCE! I am on the same team as K DOG.............if it can't be messed up....I've done it........sometimes twice.
I use 600, 1000, and 1500 grit wet or dry paper. Definitely use it wet. That's what the big car guys do. You probably can't tell from photos, my MM/PS needs serious buffing........I wasn't finished either!! ( and yes, K dog's Sam's and others work make me jealous too)
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 23, 2009 15:22:19 GMT -7
One thing that I absolutely love, they are a 1” X 1” flat alcohol soaked cotton wipe that people use to give injections, you find them at any pharmacy. That's how I got the glue off the Cuda, hmmmm I wonder how that would work to get the EZ Mask off.. I know there are lots of other things you can use for this but these are so easy to have around, each one is individually wrapped, I use them for everything from building my computers to cleaning my mouse, mouse pad and now HOs.
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Post by allstarhr on Feb 23, 2009 15:58:32 GMT -7
Kdog, the alcohol soaked cotton is for the cars and not for human consumption. Stick with AB or C for that.
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Post by kdog on Feb 23, 2009 17:05:17 GMT -7
Ok but does it kill Dogs like chocolate.
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Dusted
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Big Boyz Toyz
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Post by Dusted on Feb 23, 2009 17:33:34 GMT -7
maybe oppsssssss
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