Post by johnbalich on Feb 18, 2009 13:13:57 GMT -7
We most certainly will have a few tech articles and possibily a 'build up' for SuperStock.
The critical thing in classes that allow few modifications is friction.
Your eyes and ears and sense of touch are the most valuable tool. (BTW I recomend, even for those with 20-20 vision: Go to the drug store and buy some 'reading glasses.' They are merely magnifying glasses. 125 is low strength, 325 is STRONG. You will be amazed at how 'finely' you can work when you can see! Also..........strong LIGHT, even natural sunlight, (WAY stronger than any artifical) makes a huge difference. You need STRONG visuals to help with perfect tuning. This isn't just a tip from an old guy, it's widely known and practiced among high quality modelers in all disciplines. Thuink about it: Jewelers use maginification, engraversd use magnification, dentists use magnification as well as doctors and many many other professions. Try it, get used to it, and you will swear by it.
OK enough sermon.
Any part that is supposed to be flat, (like a commutator) this isnt FLAT; any round part that isn't ROUND, any shaft that is not CENTERED or STRAIGHT; any right angles that aren't SQUARE; any wiggles, wobbles , rubs or hitches that interfere with free spinning mechanism are absolute horsepower killers.
BTW just for fun, a T JET at 14 volts and drawing 2 amps is using 28 watts of power. Since one horsepower is 746 watts, said bveastie would be producing .0375 hosepower. if you could hook up TWENTY THOUSAND such cars you could make one horsepower.
The point is there is precious little power to draw on. You can't save any weight in Stock and SuperStock, so the only real point of attack is FRICTION. Break the cars down into sub assemblies and check each for free spinning. LOOK, LISTEN and FEEL. Every friction point you can think of needs addressing. Burrs on gears, gears that could be "lapped' to make them freer, a tire that isnt seated properly and wobbles, any bent axle, no matter how slight, any opening or 'bearing' surface that is overly tight or loose; your mission is to find them ALL.
There is more much more.......and better experts than I to convey the mesaage, but this will give you a huge start. We'll get into specifics very soon, but this should get you started.
BTW replacing the rear tires with suitable, legal race tires will make an immense difference right off the bat. It's such an encouraging speed boost that almost all of us start there first!!
The critical thing in classes that allow few modifications is friction.
Your eyes and ears and sense of touch are the most valuable tool. (BTW I recomend, even for those with 20-20 vision: Go to the drug store and buy some 'reading glasses.' They are merely magnifying glasses. 125 is low strength, 325 is STRONG. You will be amazed at how 'finely' you can work when you can see! Also..........strong LIGHT, even natural sunlight, (WAY stronger than any artifical) makes a huge difference. You need STRONG visuals to help with perfect tuning. This isn't just a tip from an old guy, it's widely known and practiced among high quality modelers in all disciplines. Thuink about it: Jewelers use maginification, engraversd use magnification, dentists use magnification as well as doctors and many many other professions. Try it, get used to it, and you will swear by it.
OK enough sermon.
Any part that is supposed to be flat, (like a commutator) this isnt FLAT; any round part that isn't ROUND, any shaft that is not CENTERED or STRAIGHT; any right angles that aren't SQUARE; any wiggles, wobbles , rubs or hitches that interfere with free spinning mechanism are absolute horsepower killers.
BTW just for fun, a T JET at 14 volts and drawing 2 amps is using 28 watts of power. Since one horsepower is 746 watts, said bveastie would be producing .0375 hosepower. if you could hook up TWENTY THOUSAND such cars you could make one horsepower.
The point is there is precious little power to draw on. You can't save any weight in Stock and SuperStock, so the only real point of attack is FRICTION. Break the cars down into sub assemblies and check each for free spinning. LOOK, LISTEN and FEEL. Every friction point you can think of needs addressing. Burrs on gears, gears that could be "lapped' to make them freer, a tire that isnt seated properly and wobbles, any bent axle, no matter how slight, any opening or 'bearing' surface that is overly tight or loose; your mission is to find them ALL.
There is more much more.......and better experts than I to convey the mesaage, but this will give you a huge start. We'll get into specifics very soon, but this should get you started.
BTW replacing the rear tires with suitable, legal race tires will make an immense difference right off the bat. It's such an encouraging speed boost that almost all of us start there first!!