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Post by ninjatek on Sept 15, 2010 13:34:29 GMT -7
I have began an attempt to build myself a track. Instead of routing I cut my slots on a table saw. The saw normally takes 10" blades but I used an 7 1/4" combination framing/rip blade to get the thinness. You may have to shop around a bit to find the right arbor size. I found my blade at Lowes for about $8. I tried an American Vermont 1/16" router bit but the depth of cut was not as deep as I wanted for the guide pin slot. And also there was the matter of running straight lines 8' at a time. I think I made out better with the table saw method. I have yet to set the rails in the slots. Anyone recommend an adhesive for this purpose? |
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Post by nosubfor3 on Sept 15, 2010 15:37:12 GMT -7
When I routed my first track I tried Gorilla glue. Very unforgiving stuff. It expands a certain percent and is nasty to remove. I had very good luck with ordinary white carpenters wood glue. You can wipe of the excess with a damp cloth before it drys. Try both on a piece of scrap to see which you prefer.
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Post by Bananasmoothie1975 on Sept 15, 2010 18:26:10 GMT -7
My rail slots are cut at 1/16" wide, I don't use glue, just a locking wire. I've successfully used a 1.0mm fishing wire found at KMart, very cheap, my rail is 0.5mm thick. The PVA white glue should work well too  |
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iowajeff
Pro Stock
Jeff Sandage- Iowa
Posts: 114
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Post by iowajeff on Sept 26, 2010 20:06:40 GMT -7
I'm thinking of redoing my track. Anybody have luck with power Tape?
thanks for your time: Iowajeff
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Post by SKR on Sept 27, 2010 19:00:42 GMT -7
I'm thinking of redoing my track. Anybody have luck with power Tape? thanks for your time: Iowajeff Hi Jeff, Unless you run braid on your pick up shoes... I don't think it will work out to well, not to mention that you will not have any downforce since it is non magnetic. Just my thoughts. Anybody here have any experience with it? I know some of the 1/32 home racers use it on their tracks laid down over their rails and have heard good things about it for that application. Sam |
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Post by SKR on Sept 27, 2010 19:08:55 GMT -7
I have began an attempt to build myself a track. Instead of routing I cut my slots on a table saw. The saw normally takes 10" blades but I used an 7 1/4" combination framing/rip blade to get the thinness. You may have to shop around a bit to find the right arbor size. I found my blade at Lowes for about $8. I tried an American Vermont 1/16" router bit but the depth of cut was not as deep as I wanted for the guide pin slot. And also there was the matter of running straight lines 8' at a time. I think I made out better with the table saw method. I have yet to set the rails in the slots. Anyone recommend an adhesive for this purpose? Ninja, We used a table saw for our track as well and used liquid nails to hold the rail. Working out great! Sam |
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L_Brown
Pro Stock
Larry Brown - North Texas
Posts: 347
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Post by L_Brown on Sept 28, 2010 11:08:01 GMT -7
What type and size of wood is being used?
How is it finished (surface)?
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Post by ninjatek on Sept 28, 2010 19:40:57 GMT -7
What type and size of wood is being used? How is it finished (surface)? I'm using 3/4" MDF, (3pcs) 8'(L) x 10"(W). There is no regulation size that you need to adhere to. Most set up their track size based on the space they have available. When finished I hope to have a portable track that is convertible from an 8' strip to a 16' strip by removing or adding a section. Either strip will have 7' of shutdown. I will be finishing my track with paint. Some home built tracks cover the surface with formica. Dimension and finish of your track will depend on space you have available and your budget. |
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Post by Bananasmoothie1975 on Sept 28, 2010 21:00:03 GMT -7
I made mine outta surplus floor laminate sections, approx 193x1370x6.35mm Handy because they already had a locking tongue n groove on each end. Finished mine with sprayed on blackboard paint, cheap, easy and rubber tyres hook up almost as good as slip ons Looks kinda authentic too..  |
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