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Post by TGM2054 on Oct 5, 2011 13:49:07 GMT -7
Here's what I have so far: Two AFX Tri Power power packs, four Parma controllers,2 W/35 OHM, 1 W/45 OHM and 1 W/ 2OHM. (I also have 2 more of the 45 OHM resistors for them) The starting and finish lines from an NTW race set, and three, 3/4X12"x8' pieces of MDF shelving. I also have a computer program for regular slot car racing that I think I can adapt to drag racing by using different lanes for the 60',1/8 and 1/4 mi. times and scale MPH. What I'm thinking I'll do is route the MDF for the guide and the power rails, use the photo cells and the christmas tree and finish line lights from the race set, along with some more photo cells for the computer program. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. |
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Post by nosubfor3 on Oct 5, 2011 14:45:50 GMT -7
Here's what I have so far: Two AFX Tri Power power packs, four Parma controllers,2 W/35 OHM, 1 W/45 OHM and 1 W/ 2OHM. (I also have 2 more of the 45 OHM resistors for them) The starting and finish lines from an NTW race set, and three, 3/4X12"x8' pieces of MDF shelving. I also have a computer program for regular slot car racing that I think I can adapt to drag racing by using different lanes for the 60',1/8 and 1/4 mi. times and scale MPH. What I'm thinking I'll do is route the MDF for the guide and the power rails, use the photo cells and the christmas tree and finish line lights from the race set, along with some more photo cells for the computer program. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. When I routed my first drag strip I used these measurements as a guide. Worked great. If you are interested I have 22' of Tomy rail for the rails and some styrene strips to press and hold the rail material in. Bought it never used it.What I used for rail material was a coil of round suspended ceiling support.Then glued them in with white carpenters glue.  |
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Post by TGM2054 on Oct 6, 2011 5:15:15 GMT -7
Thanks for the measurements, that saves me a lot of time searching that out. I like the idea of suspended ceiling wire, 22' of the tomy rail isn't quite long enough to do both lanes,but thanks. My other option is to get wire from Slot Car Express (Sir Slotalot). The only thing there is the smallest coil he has is 500',that leaves me with about 400' extra. I'll get some thing figured out.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Oct 7, 2011 3:58:38 GMT -7
Thanks for the measurements, that saves me a lot of time searching that out. I like the idea of suspended ceiling wire, 22' of the tomy rail isn't quite long enough to do both lanes,but thanks. My other option is to get wire from Slot Car Express (Sir Slotalot). The only thing there is the smallest coil he has is 500',that leaves me with about 400' extra. I'll get some thing figured out. What is nice about the ceiling wire is it is round. You get very little shoe wear. |
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Post by rickvoegelin on Oct 8, 2011 15:01:55 GMT -7
Thanks for the measurements, that saves me a lot of time searching that out. I like the idea of suspended ceiling wire, 22' of the tomy rail isn't quite long enough to do both lanes,but thanks. My other option is to get wire from Slot Car Express (Sir Slotalot). The only thing there is the smallest coil he has is 500',that leaves me with about 400' extra. I'll get some thing figured out. What is nice about the ceiling wire is it is round. You get very little shoe wear. Well, the problem with round wire rails is that you also get very little shoe contact <g>. I know that several track owners on this forum have round-rail drag strips, and the proxy races we've run on them have been just fine. But one of the guys in our club has a round-rail road course, and it's generally regarded by the members as the most troublesome track in our club. When you have a flat pickup shoe riding on a round rail, the contact between the two is only at the point where the rail is tangent to the shoe. If there's any pitting or irregularities in the rail, the electrical connection between the rail and shoes suffers. When we race on the round rail track, the shoes show a lot more burning than when we race on a conventional rectangular rail track. It's much easier to build a round-rail drag strip than one with rectangular rail, and I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from building a track with suspended ceiling wire, baling wire, rebar wire, and the other types of wire that are sometimes used. But for my two cents, I think a rectangular rail offers better conductivity and fewer problems over the long run. Rectangular fish line like Kevin Shaw used to build Phil Trover's track is a great way to go if you don't want to mess with lock wires, etc. Just my opinion, Rick V. |
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Post by customho on Oct 8, 2011 15:15:06 GMT -7
What is nice about the ceiling wire is it is round. You get very little shoe wear. Well, the problem with round wire rails is that you also get very little shoe contact <g>. I know that several track owners on this forum have round-rail drag strips, and the proxy races we've run on them have been just fine. But one of the guys in our club has a round-rail road course, and it's generally regarded by the members as the most troublesome track in our club. When you have a flat pickup shoe riding on a round rail, the contact between the two is only at the point where the rail is tangent to the shoe. If there's any pitting or irregularities in the rail, the electrical connection between the rail and shoes suffers. When we race on the round rail track, the shoes show a lot more burning than when we race on a conventional rectangular rail track. It's much easier to build a round-rail drag strip than one with rectangular rail, and I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from building a track with suspended ceiling wire, baling wire, rebar wire, and the other types of wire that are sometimes used. But for my two cents, I think a rectangular rail offers better conductivity and fewer problems over the long run. Rectangular fish line like Kevin Shaw used to build Phil Trover's track is a great way to go if you don't want to mess with lock wires, etc. Just my opinion, Rick V. I'll put this in for a penny and a half. If you look at a cross section of most "flat" wire it is also rounded on the blade sides. And the radius much more then round rail. The round rail I am familiar with is .080 or greater and creates a much larger contact patch then flat rail. The tracks that I have run on with this rail are superior to any flat wire track I have run on. I can see how a smaller round rail will present problems in many areas though. |
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Post by TGM2054 on Oct 9, 2011 17:32:12 GMT -7
Thanks for the advise and ideas, they're all appreciated greatly. On a side note, I just ordered a NTW race set. That along with the AFX track that I already have I'll be able to set up a Plastic track while I'm putting together the routed one.
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