New to Slot Drag Racing

Welcome to the madness! ;D
Look around on the site, you can find a LOT of info for beginners on here.
The AW set only comes with a christmas tree starting light and a win light. Most 'aftermarket' timing systems will run you from 120 bux and up (Trackmate). Somewhere on the board here is a thread on making a 'generic' timing system, for CHEAP! With all the parts need it would only set you back 20 bux or less, and would be perfect for a 'starting out' setiup. Look around, can't remember where exactly it's at on here.
As far as mounting a HotWheels (or other diecast body) look for the "4 Gear chassis". Most diecast fit on those chassis almost perfect. What you do need to be aware of, is the width of the rear body and tire clearance, as the slot chassis are wider than most diecast bodies. I actually resin cast a lot of bodies using heavily modified diecast bodies as 'masters'. As a matter of fact, this weekend I'm going to try to put up some pics and a list of the bodies I'm doing. Actually have 2 "new" ones that no one has seen yet either. Also, "Hairy Canary" (Rick) does some EXCELLENT resin bodies and decals. Somewhere in the 'resin' section (I think) there is a link to his pics and bodies he does. But, like I said, it's somewhat easy to mount a diecast body on a 4 gear chassis, as opposed to trying to do one for the "Thunderjet" type chassis. Those are VERY short wheelbase.
Again, feel free to look around. And don't hesitate to ask questions. LOTS of good guys on here that can help ya out, and if not, someone will know how to get ya the help ya need.
Enjoy!
Ron (Bondo)

I guess my post should go into another section.... Getting started perhaps... Sorry folks!

Can the Trackmate Drag Budget timing system work in conjuction with the tree and win lights on the AW set?

Welcome srtoc, I am using the Trackmate Budget system on my AW track. I do use the win light. The AW light lacks alot of features like a split tree for backet racing. I tried the stop watch system before I bought the Budget system. Save your money and buy the Trackmate Budget system you will be happy you did.

Hello everyone, I am new to this scale of drag racing, I raced 1/24 scale for the past ten years and a month ago my local track closed its doors. I purchased an AW Drag Track and have built a base for it and I'm getting ready to layout the track, any suggestions on how to attach the track to painted MDF? The track is going to be setup as a scale 1000' (13' 2") with a 4' shut down. The plan is to use two 18.5 volt 3.5 amp Lap Top power supplies, one for each lane. I did purchase a HO Express 18 volt power supply but I found out that they are not in production anymore so I can't get a second one. I also purchased the Track Mate inexpensive timing system. I would like to know more about hosting a Proxy Race never done it before but after reading the posts and newsletter I think it's time to jump in. A lot of the guys I raced with would be willing to be Proxy Drivers. Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.

As far as attaching the track to your base you have several options. You can glue it with construction adhesive or fasten it to the base with nails or screws threw the track. The problems with these is they don't allow for expansion and contraction of the track and the base, sometimes this isn't a problem. I'm in the same process as you as far as putting together my tracks (a drag strip and a four lane oval). What I'm thinking about doing is chalking a line down my base, laying out my track, (a third of it at a time), putting a straight edge on the other side from the chalk line, and then fastening the track to the base with a bead of silicone bathroom caulk on the outside edges of the track. Hopefully that will allow for any expansion but still keep the track straight. Another option is to put finish nails at the out side edges, next to the track, drive them in flush with the track and then drive them just below the top with a nail set.