|
|
Post by ninjatek on Jan 16, 2012 9:13:44 GMT -7
|
|
|
|
Post by pceng on Jan 16, 2012 11:15:47 GMT -7
Kbuck, have to take into account if the bars are for looks or function. If for function I think the chassis is best. But thats just my opinion. If your going to be racing, consider if the bars are needed. Just extra weight if not needed. But could help to make min. weight for class. Ninjatek, listed two threads that show fine examples. Plan on building some for my 4g's but as of yet don't have a 4g that needs bars. Have t-jets that do need bars because of jumping or bouncing at start. And others of identical builds that don't. Test all, use if needed. Also, a difference of opinion does exsist as to the wheels functioning on bars making a difference or not. Enough of my 2 cents, good luck with the bars.
...........PC
|
|
kbuck
Pro Stock
"THUNDER BUCK RACEWAY"
Posts: 437
|
Post by kbuck on Jan 16, 2012 11:55:56 GMT -7
 pceng, Thanks for your imput. You guys are really helpful to us just getting restarted. Back in the day I ran 1/24 scale, then all the tracks around here closed. Now the HO bug has bitten and bitten hard. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Post by pceng on Mar 3, 2015 18:54:30 GMT -7
Only thread I could find on wheelie bars.........
Been using short brass tube 1/16 OD, about 5/16 for axle tube. Lay pins over w/heads. After soldering grind to round. Use glass beads for wheels and cut down pins glued into tube so head holds bead. If a soft rubbery type cement is packed into tube beads can be replaced if broken by pulling out pin andreplacing bead then push back into tube. Only contact with track is glass.
I know there are those who do not think having a functioning wheel necessary. Perhaps it is not. It is my preference to use wheels. Don't know if it actually makes a difference.
........ Peter
|
|
|
|
Post by FlatBlackCamaro on Mar 3, 2015 20:50:57 GMT -7
I have to agree with peter on both subjects, i dont have much experience in slot car racing, but i race the car i own so take it for what its worth.
I could see how ninjas advise is chassis specific but what peter said makes sense to me. The wheelie bars on the stock AW bodies i bought are simply for looks, they are too high off the ground. But i did notice that if the chassis was to pull the wheels the bar would render itself useless due to body shifting on the mounts. Most chassis ive seen typically only use a front post, and the rear post thats more of a chassis guide isnt anchored. Car pulls off the line and wheelies, wheelie bar hits the ground and torques body, due to body not having an anchor body lifts... you get the picture. However on some chassis a front and rear mount are present and i could see how in that case you could use a body wheelie bar and it be suffice.
As for the wheel. Friction = Drag = Decrease in Momentum, depends on how long the wheelie bar actually touches the track i suppose but in any form a wheel makes more mechanical sense than just a bar touching the ground.
Just my .02
Have Fun Racing!
|
|
