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Post by charley on May 21, 2012 18:15:12 GMT -7
O.k., I have heard a lot about these. What makes them so "good"? Also, where can one get some for the upcoming Summer race?
Thanks.
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Post by Eagle Racing on May 21, 2012 19:59:31 GMT -7
They are a lot stronger than ceramic magnets. The polymer when used with mean green armature and at least 18 volts can really turn some nice rpms. You can get these through Jags or Lucky Bobs, and BSRT all have links on the NTRA home page.
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Post by Bananasmoothie1975 on May 22, 2012 4:53:27 GMT -7
am I correct in that poly mags and AW 4Gear chassis aren't a good combo?
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Post by pceng on May 22, 2012 8:47:24 GMT -7
Hey Banana, I put polys in a AW 4g. Chassis sagged so bad it bottemed out on track. Had no problems with NOS and haven't used traction mags with them, poly's are strong enough for that.
..........PC
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Post by bondoman2k on May 22, 2012 12:58:26 GMT -7
One thing to remember tho, poly's only work without the traction mags in an NOS if the chassis is a "Magna Traction" type. If you use the non-mag chassis you will need at least one traction mag, unless your car will work well without them. I'm actually building 2 "Gen 2" original chassis, one for a Doorslammer (which will have ceramic mags of course) and one for my Top Fuel chassis (those are the non mag, with the brush tabs like a Tjet, and a screw in the gearplate, the first generation did not have the screw). ;D Gonna try this option, as my DS cars all seem to keep 'hanging up' the brushes on the brush springs if I use the other type chassis.  Ron (Bondo)  |
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Post by pceng on May 23, 2012 17:28:18 GMT -7
Hey Ron,
Saw what you said about brushes hanging up. Brushes in 4g's have been rattling around between my ears lately. Are you having problems with brushes in cars with brush spring contact pushed up. I've done this with most cars, and have had minor problems. Wondering if leaving the contacts flat therefore the spring and brush wouldn't be better. Would think brush would contact comm in a flat fashion vs. being slightly tilted. If I had a timing system working I'd know which was better.
..........Peter
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Post by bondoman2k on May 23, 2012 20:52:21 GMT -7
Actually PC..my probs have been with the contacts being flat. I've tried stretching the springs too. That helped some, but they still hang up. Gonna try pushing them up some on my MFC chassis that's almost ready ( I went with an original Aurora Magna Traction type chassis on this since we can't add shunts and braids and I felt this chassis would give the best performance based on that. Also, I didn't use a trac mag either since the polys work just as well in this type of chassis without any). To be honest, I think the problem is that the springs are actually too small in diameter, and too short, and causes them to slide in and get jammed between the chassis plates and the chassis itself if the spring/brush mounts are left in a 'stock' position. Been trying to find a slightly larger spring to use in it's place, but so far the only ones that seem to be just a little better are the springs in the new AW chassis. They are slightly taller, but I think they still need a little bit larger diameter though. Up to this point I've been using original Aurora springs.  Ron (Bondo) |
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Post by nosubfor3 on May 24, 2012 16:59:13 GMT -7
Ron and Peter. Try using a round tooth pick to increase the diameter of the brush springs. Sounds weird but try it. Just slide the brush spring over the tooth pick to stretch the spring a little larger in diameter. If it is not large enough then use the same method with a different size drill shanks. The ultimate goal is to increase the springs diameter so it will not slip between the spring perch and the chassis. Both pushing the spring perch up and stretching the p/u springs has never worked for me. I leave the perches flat and work the springs only.
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Post by pceng on May 25, 2012 10:07:10 GMT -7
Thanks Nosub, haven't had problems with brushes getting stuck myself. Have though been thinking about pressure of brushes on comm plate. Keep wondering if less would be better ? Built an inline (some time ago now), a Decosmo chassis, hot arm, bigfoot brushes, the works. Had to shorten the brushes and brush springs to get it working, ok to get it screaming. Just can't get it out of my mind. Gonna start playing with pressure and see if there seems to be any noticable improvment. No timing to work with.
Toothpick sounds like a good idea. Very small cone shape.
Thanks .......... Peter
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Post by charley on Jun 8, 2012 8:42:45 GMT -7
Help!!!!!! O.k., I bought the Polymer magnets from JAG. Got them installed around 07:00 this morning after making 10 passes to get an idea what my STOCK M/FC from AW would run. I have 2 of the M/FC are they are both dead even on the track. It is one of the AW tracks with a wallwart. Now, it only runs half as fast. What gives? I removed both of the stock traction magnets, used my trusted expensive compass to make sure the magnets are in right, nothing is in a bind, free wheels just great. Tires do NOT spin. I spent a lot of time cleaning the track before testing. Now, I am scared to use the other set. I wanted to be somewhat competitive for this next race, but right now, it looks like I am backing up.  Any ideas??? |
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Post by pceng on Jun 8, 2012 9:35:31 GMT -7
Hey Charley, what kind of chassis did you put the polys in ? Use NOS if possible. Had problems with AW chassis sagging with polys, none with NOS. If all else is well this could be problem.
hope it helps ....... PC
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Post by nosubfor3 on Jun 8, 2012 17:25:52 GMT -7
Hey Charley. Check your brush springs. If you lost half of your power chances are a brush spring got sandwiched between the chassis and the metal spring perch. If that did happen it will lose brush contact tension to the arm com plate reduceing power.
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Post by bondoman2k on Jun 8, 2012 17:48:57 GMT -7
Yep. Check those brush springs! Makes a HUGE difference! That's what I was talking about in my earlier posts. And, for the record, a toothpick WON'T work to stretch the diameter of the springs. Too small. I finally used the tapered metal end of a paintbrush! Worked GREAT! Now I have a "NEW" tool for my box! ;D Ron (Bondo) |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2012 5:29:05 GMT -7
Ok, through out many diff. threads and posts I have seen NOS. Still somewhat of a noob, what the heck is NOS. In the automotive world it refers to New Old Stock. Is that true of the slot car world, if so which chassis are you all referring to?
Jeff
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Post by nosubfor3 on Jun 9, 2012 6:06:01 GMT -7
Ok, through out many diff. threads and posts I have seen NOS. Still somewhat of a noob, what the heck is NOS. In the automotive world it refers to New Old Stock. Is that true of the slot car world, if so which chassis are you all referring to? Jeff Jeff NOS is new old stock. I believe people are referring to an original un used Aurora chassis. Keep in mind you do not necessarily need NOS, There are quit a number of good used ones on the market. |
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Any ideas???