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Post by SKR on Dec 3, 2012 11:28:35 GMT -7
nice set up JJ! Thanks for sharing.
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Post by AJR on Dec 3, 2012 11:52:08 GMT -7
Thanks Sam.
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Post by kiwidave on Dec 4, 2012 1:19:02 GMT -7
Awesome stuff!! Lots of new tracks for 2013. I can't stage the AW dragsters on my slotdragon system. And have problems with wheelie bars sometimes on other cars. I'm still playing around with my lighting at the moment!
I also agree that it's a shame you can't set up this system with the display at the end of the track and the Xmas tree at the start. For the money and some fine tuning it's still a fun time!!! Looking good in Texas!
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Post by AJR on Dec 5, 2012 12:41:48 GMT -7
Thanks Dave. You are inspiring me with your build. To be honest though, with the tree located further down the track it is actually more visible than if it was closer to the line. I haven't run anything with wheelie bars yet, but I can see where that could be an issue as well. Blacktop Raceway is running optical sensors ( with a different timing system ) and hasn't seen any problems at all. Go figure.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Dec 17, 2012 14:09:53 GMT -7
Stopped by Bear Creek Dragway to check out JJs new track. Outstanding Mr. Wallace guys Jeff has built an excellent setup. Nice smooth AFX plastic track a rock solid, open on both sides shelf that the track sets on. Made a few pass, smooth, solid and fast. The Dragon light system worked perfect. Top shelf work my friend ;D
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Post by AJR on Dec 17, 2012 14:42:02 GMT -7
Thank you for the good word Robert. Lots of work left to do. Track testing will shut down at the end of Dec. and the detail/finish work will be completed then. Progress reports will be posted.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2012 20:07:15 GMT -7
Looks awesome, man! Can't wait to run on it!
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Post by AJR on Dec 27, 2012 17:28:09 GMT -7
 Here are a couple of pics of the FED I've built for the upcoming race. This is an Eagle Racing body with some minor modifications. I will be adding engine details after final track testing. I saw some requests for build details on another thread, so I will provide a quick summary of what I've done. I am still relatively new to this, but have learned a lot in the last year. First, I have found that the weak link on the 4 gear ( for me anyway ) is the cluster gear.......not so much the crown. I shim the crown gear to get the best mesh I can and still be smooth. I also do the same for peening the cluster rivet......as tight as I can get it and still have it turn smooth. That has given me the longevity I need in the gears. I am running a custom wound sub 4 ohm balanced arm with timing ( courtesy of Tjetsgrig......thank you......thank you ), poly mags, shunts, braids on none step AFX shoes, readily available brushes ( not stock AW ), Eagle Racing silly foams .060 dia, (2) neo traction mags, have provisions for wheelie bars, but not sure if I will use them. Everything else is stock. Added a second guidepin to the front of the FED to help keep it straight. Tried running the AFX 15t crown, but was not getting enough of the cluster gear and blew 2 before having to go with the 18t AW crown. Sorry....don't want to give away my times yet. Eagles have good eyesight and hearing  ...lol. I am faster than my last unlimited I built for the Summer National match race against Eagle Racing. That car ran a best of .656.   |
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Post by AJR on Dec 27, 2012 17:44:29 GMT -7
I hear tell of some "CRAZY" stuff being cooked up at Eagle Racing's shop. No telling what's going to be coming out of there!
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Post by SKR on Dec 27, 2012 19:04:05 GMT -7
Looks awesome JJ! You should also post this in the dragster thread in painters corner.
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Post by dragfool on Dec 28, 2012 14:07:16 GMT -7
Hey JJ,
You talk about shimming the Crown Gear, how do you do that and where do you get the shims from? Also what is the best way of removing and installing the rear axle and Crown Gear on a 4 Gear chassis, every time I try to remove the axle I distort the Crown Gear. Thanks for any advice you can give.
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Post by AJR on Dec 28, 2012 17:02:28 GMT -7
Thanks Sam I appreciate the good word! ;D I posted a couple of pics in the dragster thread like you suggested. Looking forward to seeing all the dragster concepts.
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Post by AJR on Dec 28, 2012 17:24:25 GMT -7
Dragfool...
We have been operating on a low budget over here at the shop. I'm working on building up some parts inventory. I've seen some shims on Lucky Bob's under Wizzard. I actually made my first shims out of some thin styrene sheet. I sanded it to the thickness I needed on a piece of 1000g wet/dry sandpaper. It was trial and error till I got the fit I wanted. Pretty primitive I know, but it works well. As for removing the crown gear...I'm still trying to figure out the best way. Ruined several myself as well as some wheels. I use a wheel press, wheel puller, and a pair of pliers that I customized to hold the axle end on one side and fit over the axle on the other. I always try to push axle thru the left side as far as I can with the press and then pull it thru the rest of the way with pliers without marring up the axle. When I install the axle I always push it in from the right. Always keeping the pressure on the back of the gear. Hope this helps.
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Post by dragfool on Dec 29, 2012 10:35:40 GMT -7
Thanks JJ that's a tremendous help, if you wouldn't mind I would like to see a picture of your customized pliers. Do you place the shims between the wheel and chassis or between the Crown Gear and chassis? Thanks again for your help, I'm still trying to figure the 4 Gear chassis out.
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Post by AJR on Dec 29, 2012 12:10:25 GMT -7
I'll get a picture up as soon as I can. The shim will go between the back of the crown gear and the chassis. Sorry I don't have a thickness on the shim. I don't have anything to measure accurately. Taking the shim in and out to get the proper fit is where the custom pliers really come in handy. I will try to show pic of that as well. Glad I could help.
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...lol. I am faster than my last unlimited I built for the Summer National match race against Eagle Racing. That car ran a best of .656. 
