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Post by mazda on Jul 17, 2020 1:10:48 GMT -7
I can’t wait to see these things run, they look awesome.
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Post by AJR on Jul 26, 2020 15:25:03 GMT -7
Working on a couple of bodies that will sit on top of the two chassis that I am building. The Camaro will sit on the Unlimited and the C10 will sit on the Super Comp. These were customer requested design themes and colors. There is still quite a bit of detail work left on them. I am posting now to show the decals and how I have to do them using an inkjet printer. Decals that are applied to darker colors (pretty much anything other than white) will get washed out if printed on clear paper. Not having an Alps or other high end printer, I have to print my decals for this car on white decal paper with a black background. when I cut the decal out and apply it you can see the edge of the white paper. That will need to be covered up. I do that by thinning some black paint and using a very fine brush and actually paint the edge of the paper. I will post some pics once this is done so the difference can be seen. This method was passed onto me by Eagle Racing. I do not know any other method. When applied to a darker actual color the decals background color needs to match the paint color as close as possible and the same method is used to cover the white edge. The paint needs to be thinned and a small brush used so as not to leave a bunch of messy brush marks. Depending on how smooth I can get it, sometimes I have to color sand the first coat of clear and reapply to get the smooth finish that I want. Not liking the truck door decals. They are not showing up so I will pull them and reprint some other way with a white outline or something.
660slots '69 Camaro Pro Mod
Angry Jeff Racing '62 C10 Pro Mod
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Post by hairycanary on Jul 27, 2020 5:34:32 GMT -7
Jeff lookin pretty Sweet !! Paint and Decals look really great. I haven’t tried doing decals the way you did them yet but been wanting to. So if I understand this ? How you did it is print it on white decal paper with a black background in this case because the cars are black. You try to match the background color of the decal to the color of the car. Then when you cut it out it has a thin white of the decal exposed. Then You paint like a wash over the white ? If I have all that right ?
Rick
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2020 6:53:06 GMT -7
Rick, sounds like it about sums up what I have heard from others also.
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Post by swiftkart on Jul 27, 2020 7:30:15 GMT -7
Pretty cool
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Post by AJR on Jul 27, 2020 9:50:20 GMT -7
Jeff lookin pretty Sweet !! Paint and Decals look really great. I haven’t tried doing decals the way you did them yet but been wanting to. So if I understand this ? How you did it is print it on white decal paper with a black background in this case because the cars are black. You try to match the background color of the decal to the color of the car. Then when you cut it out it has a thin white of the decal exposed. Then You paint like a wash over the white ? If I have all that right ? Rick Yes you are exactly right Rick. It gets tricky trying to match the paint color to the decal background. Black is easy.
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Post by mazda on Jul 27, 2020 12:56:12 GMT -7
Great looking cars Jeff.
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Post by hairycanary on Jul 27, 2020 21:10:09 GMT -7
Jeff I like to learn different ways of doing things and this way has interested me. Never figured about the white outline where the decal was cut. I can see how matching colors would be hard. Like you said the black would be the easiest. Me not ever tried this yet but just thinkin. Have you tried blackening the white outline after you cut it before you apply it ? And what about a felt permanent marker ? And I was also thinkin do you shoot clear over the decal before you blacken the outline after it’s applied to the body ? I like to clear a painted body and then do the detailing grill, lights and other stuff that way I can clean up my mistakes without harming the painted body. I use paint thinner and a brush. Then clear it a final time.
Rick
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Post by AJR on Jul 28, 2020 8:50:49 GMT -7
Jeff I like to learn different ways of doing things and this way has interested me. Never figured about the white outline where the decal was cut. I can see how matching colors would be hard. Like you said the black would be the easiest. Me not ever tried this yet but just thinkin. Have you tried blackening the white outline after you cut it before you apply it ? And what about a felt permanent marker ? And I was also thinkin do you shoot clear over the decal before you blacken the outline after it’s applied to the body ? I like to clear a painted body and then do the detailing grill, lights and other stuff that way I can clean up my mistakes without harming the painted body. I use paint thinner and a brush. Then clear it a final time. Rick I am the same way. I've learned so much from you, Randy, and Eagle over the years. I've learned from everybody but you guys have really helped me a lot with various tips and techniques regarding all phases of the hobby. That is why I put my stuff out here on the forum. Maybe I can help someone else out. You just gave me another great tip! Clearing before detailing to be able to clean up any mistakes. Seems very simple once someone says it out loud. Robert is the one that told me about this decal technique way back when and I've just fined tuned it to fit my needs. The color matching of the decal background to match the paint color ends up being trial and error because of several factors. First matching the color in my picture editing software, then having it print that actual color on paper, and then again on decal paper. Each time the color changes slightly and sometimes drastically. So I end up wasting some decal paper to get it right. My software gives me a number that correlates with the color on the gradient so I can go back and duplicate it if needed. A person can get it right if they are willing to spend the time. The way I do decals may be crude as well but I don't know of any other way and it works. I may post on that to maybe educate and learn something at the same time. I haven't thought about trying to blacken the edges before applying. I may try that but I'm pretty sure that some of that will get rubbed off while applying and would need the brush anyway. But it could be worth a try. As far as the permanent marker goes.....I tried that once and it bled all over the decal when I cleared it and exposed the white edge again.That was on my Hillbilly Hearse C10 truck. Click on the picture and it will take you to Flikr where you can blow it up to see better. But the white is showing on these decals. Very subtle yes......but it sticks out like a sore thumb to me. I guess I could have painted over the clear but I never fixed it. I think it was a time thing...trying to finish for a race or something. Let's see if you remember this Rick. I had just started here on the forum and had raced two three times I think. I don't remember what prompted you doing this, but you sent me the '62 C10 casting and a blemished '55 Chevy Pro Mod. You suggested that I cut the air dam/spoiler off the back of the '55 and put it on the truck. Which is exactly what I did. This was my first "frankenstein" build. The first version was a dull gold with an ugly black stripe down it . Later on I stripped it, removed the '55 air dam, added something different and it became the Hillbilly Hearse for Doug and Peter's race I think it was. Anyway......that was super cool! I believe that truck and your '57 Chevy Pro Mod were my very first resin bodies I ever got. I was hooked at that point and have been ever since. My HO slotcar sickness has only gotten worse and we know there is no cure
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2020 8:58:18 GMT -7
you have been assimilated
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Post by hairycanary on Jul 28, 2020 21:42:28 GMT -7
Let's see if you remember this Rick. I had just started here on the forum and had raced two three times I think. I don't remember what prompted you doing this, but you sent me the '62 C10 casting and a blemished '55 Chevy Pro Mod. You suggested that I cut the air dam/spoiler off the back of the '55 and put it on the truck. Which is exactly what I did. This was my first "frankenstein" build. The first version was a dull gold with an ugly black stripe down it . Later on I stripped it, removed the '55 air dam, added something different and it became the Hillbilly Hearse for Doug and Peter's race I think it was. Anyway......that was super cool! I believe that truck and your '57 Chevy Pro Mod were my very first resin bodies I ever got. I was hooked at that point and have been ever since. My HO slotcar sickness has only gotten worse and we know there is no cure Jeff I do remember sending you that truck and 55 because I have a truck and the rear deck off one of those 55's that I was going to build and haven't got around to finishing yet I should start posting all the bodies I have started and haven't finished ? That way you can all see how screwed up I really am I think I sent you that truck because you mentioned the real one you have and at the time was working on. And the 57 Pro Mod I just re cast it after I widened it. Will post some pics soon. That was a real narrow body. And I think we started racing about the same time. I remember one of my first races was at Lions Rick V's track. Wish he was still running with us. Got to meet and talk to Rick at a race a couple years back. Great guy. We only live 2 hours from each other it would have been cool to see his track in action. Jeff you said it there is no cure for this Sickness
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Post by AJR on Jul 29, 2020 7:48:12 GMT -7
Let's see if you remember this Rick. I had just started here on the forum and had raced two three times I think. I don't remember what prompted you doing this, but you sent me the '62 C10 casting and a blemished '55 Chevy Pro Mod. You suggested that I cut the air dam/spoiler off the back of the '55 and put it on the truck. Which is exactly what I did. This was my first "frankenstein" build. The first version was a dull gold with an ugly black stripe down it . Later on I stripped it, removed the '55 air dam, added something different and it became the Hillbilly Hearse for Doug and Peter's race I think it was. Anyway......that was super cool! I believe that truck and your '57 Chevy Pro Mod were my very first resin bodies I ever got. I was hooked at that point and have been ever since. My HO slotcar sickness has only gotten worse and we know there is no cure Jeff I do remember sending you that truck and 55 because I have a truck and the rear deck off one of those 55's that I was going to build and haven't got around to finishing yet I should start posting all the bodies I have started and haven't finished ? That way you can all see how screwed up I really am I think I sent you that truck because you mentioned the real one you have and at the time was working on. And the 57 Pro Mod I just re cast it after I widened it. Will post some pics soon. That was a real narrow body. And I think we started racing about the same time. I remember one of my first races was at Lions Rick V's track. Wish he was still running with us. Got to meet and talk to Rick at a race a couple years back. Great guy. We only live 2 hours from each other it would have been cool to see his track in action. Jeff you said it there is no cure for this Sickness My truck casting is the cab and hood of this truck and the stepside from a Hot Wheels '56 Chevy truck married together. Rick V's races were the best and I pattern my events after his.
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Post by AJR on Jul 31, 2020 8:50:33 GMT -7
A couple of pics showing the cars with the decal paper edge blended in. Once the clear is applied everything will come together. Both cars are completely ready for clear coat. I am waiting on a new product that I am going to try. I have a couple of experimental bodies that I will shoot first. I will definitely post the results.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Jul 31, 2020 9:28:08 GMT -7
Looking good cuzzo!!
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Post by swiftkart on Aug 1, 2020 13:26:26 GMT -7
Very nice
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