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Post by tazman052186 on Jan 30, 2013 10:05:28 GMT -7
Im try to build a MM/PS with things that I have in my box. My funds are kinda cut a little short with some pay checks and also having a baby on the way.
I have a tyco red wire 440x2 arm. I put it in my super g+ chassis and tested on my test track. The arm got really hot. ( I dont have braids on the pickup shoes or shunt wires on) I havent taken apart any of my afx turbo chassis yet to try one on them arms. Has anyone tried other in line motors in their MM/PS car? Or is it best to go off the build on here for the MM/PS?
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Post by TGM2054 on Jan 30, 2013 11:03:20 GMT -7
Hey Taz, I don't think you want to run that arm in that chassis, I think the timing is different. If you look at where the brushes are from a Super G+ to a 440X2 you'll see what I mean. I think that's why it's getting hot.
Just out of curosity what does that arm OHM out at?
I'm thinking about trying a 440X2 arm in a Super 3 just to see if it'll work. Just a thought.
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Post by tazman052186 on Jan 30, 2013 11:17:50 GMT -7
I never thought of it that way TGM2054. I didnt ohm it out yet. I think I might also try it in a super 3 chassis.
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Post by pceng on Jan 30, 2013 12:06:24 GMT -7
Hey Taz,
Think Tom, hit it on the head. Brush position between the two could be 45 degrees in difference. Look for any differences in arms when switching around. Shafts could be different lengths or diameters. Stacks might be different, coms also. If everything looks the same arm should work, unless the timing is way off. When re-winding or doing custom winds think 15 degrees is about maximum when advancing timing.
........... PC
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Post by TGM2054 on Jan 30, 2013 13:35:55 GMT -7
Taz if you do it,let me know if that works in that chassis. I wanted to but I only have one 440X2, and it's still in the package. Don't really want to open it just to find out if it'll work, then go and have to buy another arm.
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Post by tazman052186 on Jan 30, 2013 14:26:24 GMT -7
I just did it. It gets a little hot. I have to find my temp gun I have for my nitro rc to see how much hotter it get then the stock are. Everything fits fine. Just worried about the temp.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Jan 30, 2013 15:40:32 GMT -7
I just did it. It gets a little hot. I have to find my temp gun I have for my nitro rc to see how much hotter it get then the stock are. Everything fits fine. Just worried about the temp. TGM is correct in the timing issue. SG+ arms are unique to G+ due to the brushes being one on top of the other. The timing of the arm is different than other arms. The only chassis I think the SG+ arm will run in is the old Life Like "M" chassis. A tyco arm will run in the Auto World Super III's. On of my bracket cars has a 3.5 ohm Tyco arm in it. |
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Post by tazman052186 on Jan 30, 2013 16:06:23 GMT -7
I have the tyco arm in my super 3 chassis now. I only have 4 life like chassis and really dont want to rip them apart. I have an extra tyco arm from a chassis the broke in half after hitting the basement wall.
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Post by nosubfor3 on May 25, 2013 15:40:22 GMT -7
I have the tyco arm in my super 3 chassis now. I only have 4 life like chassis and really dont want to rip them apart. I have an extra tyco arm from a chassis the broke in half after hitting the basement wall. Oh I forgot about the T+ bulk head from Decosmo. This allows you to run a tyco arm in the Super G+. Speaking of the T+. Has anyone installed one in a G+ with Wizzard adjustable brush tubes? |
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Post by pceng on May 25, 2013 16:38:26 GMT -7
Hey guy's, car that I sent for match race was a G3 with T+ Bulkhead, bigfoot brushes, ski-shoes w/braids. Needs alot more brush tension testing, shortend brushes to .125. Guessing they need more pressure, maybe worn. Car was faster than T&T car befor it left but that might have been the last horah for that brush setting.
.................. Peter
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Post by nosubfor3 on May 26, 2013 4:10:17 GMT -7
Hey guy's, car that I sent for match race was a G3 with T+ Bulkhead, bigfoot brushes, ski-shoes w/braids. Needs alot more brush tension testing, shortend brushes to .125. Guessing they need more pressure, maybe worn. Car was faster than T&T car befor it left but that might have been the last horah for that brush setting. .................. Peter Peter How did you line up the brush tube holes to drill the side of the chassis so they align with the T+? Did you also drill the T+ brush tube holes? What size drill did you use? Vince |
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Post by pceng on May 27, 2013 8:51:37 GMT -7
Hey Vince, not sure of the drill size (not at home right now). Was from a 1/64 drill index. Measured brush tube and drill bit was smaller (maybe .015). Brush tubes have a rounded end that goes into bulkhead, helps getting tight fit. Would start small and test fit to get right. Tubes have collar that helps square things up.
Holes in chassis are just in front and slightly lower than tab hole for bulkhead. If you put bulkhead with tubes into chassis you should get idea of where holes need to be. Laying a piece of masking tape across bottom of chassis, so edge of tape lays on the same line as center line of tubes and folding tape around side will give you one center. I got the holes as close as I could eye balling then used jewlers file. Holes in chassis don't have to be as big as tubes. Only big enough to get brushes, springs and screws through.
Hope this helps, I'll check later to see if I have size saved............. Peter
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