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Post by SKR on Mar 20, 2013 17:29:10 GMT -7
I agree that those are some cool chassis. I like how narrow they are, Hopefully the availability of after market parts will increase for them.
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Post by tazman052186 on Mar 22, 2013 18:00:55 GMT -7
Are we able to use bearings or no? I seen it asked earlier but never seen if we could or not.
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Post by SKR on Mar 22, 2013 18:07:40 GMT -7
Its not stated in the rules so they are legal.
MM/PS
MM/PS Mountain Motor Pro Stock
Pro Tree Light
Body: Only Resin or Hard Plastic bodies allowed. No Styrene or Lexan. Windows & Wings may be made of Lexan. Balsa wood Hood Scoops are allowed. Bodies must be of a 1980 Model/Make or newer. All bodies must have a Front Window, Rear Window, Hood Scoop, Rear Air Spoil or Wing. Each body must have a front and rear bumper.
Armatures: 2.6 Ohm minimum. Any Armature that retails for $20.00 or less are allowed. DeWinding of Armature or Advancing/Retarding Commutator is NOT allowed. No homebuilt armatures. Balancing is allowed. Armature must be readily available.
Magnets: Only two motor magnets per car. Ceramic motor magnets are only allowed. Polymer traction magnets are allowed. Only a total of four magnets per car. Two Motor and Two traction magnets. No extra magnets allowed.
Electrical: No Restrictions on Pick Up Shoes, Springs, Brush Barrels, & Motor Brushes. Must be readily available. Shunts and Braids are allowed.
Gears: No Restrictions. Must be readily available.
Wheels & Tires: No Restrictions.
Chassis: All available inline chassis are allowed. No scratch built chassis. Chassis can be Cut, Drilled, Sanded and Braced to stiffen. Wheelie bars are allowed.
Weight: 22 Grams: Cars are subjected to weigh in before and after each run.
Update:
These armatures from Lucky Bob's (LB) ARE legal. BSRT had marked their prices up to LB's by 20% so LB's did the same. These armatures retail for $18.00 on BSRT's site.
Listed at Lucky Bob's:
BSRT140 G+, G3 & G3R
HIGH POWER ARMATURE
EPOXIED, CUT & TIED COMM &BALANCED
APROX. 3.1 TO 3.4 OHMS
$21.60
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Mar 22, 2013 21:30:42 GMT -7
Sam,
MM/PS Rules that are posted Nov 2 2008 say no ball bearings allowed.
So are you saying we can use them now.
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Post by SKR on Mar 23, 2013 4:44:50 GMT -7
Phantom,
The rules posted in this thread are the ones that have been posted since this raced was announced and have not changed. It was overlooked when I made the updates to the rules for 2013 about the bearings. With that being said, they will be allowed if you want to run them since the rules for this race never stated if they were legal or not. Our club doesn't run bearings but I don't want to go changing rules this close to the race.
Sam
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Post by pceng on Mar 23, 2013 16:23:32 GMT -7
Hey Sam, Been meaning to ask, do many use braids on pick-ups? Keep hesitating to put them on, not a lot of space underneath an in-line chassis.
tia..........Peter
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Post by SKR on Mar 23, 2013 16:51:01 GMT -7
Hey Peter, no one is currently running them in MM/PS here. I do use them on my Pro Mod cars. Those cars have a little extra downforce with the polymer motor magnets. I've noticed when I tried them on some MM/PS cars, they tend to lift the front. You can get them to work but it requires more track time to set up. If you're using the G3, you'll be fine with the flat shoes.
Sam
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Post by pceng on Apr 17, 2013 12:06:58 GMT -7
Hey guys, very interested to see difference between two MM/PS I've sent to upcoming race. Did one build from Sam's, how too, a G3. Wanted to see what a Tyco could do, so second car is a green-wire Tyco with Quad magnets. Had though the Quad mags to be stronger than stock 440 but since going through what Tyco mags I have. The strongest matched pair are stock 440 (slightly less than one quad mag of only quad set not going to Colorado). Was wondering if anyone knew of source to get stronger ceramics.
Also thought that if we knew what types of chassis entrants were sending to race and what had been done to them. When come race day we all might learn from seeing what different builds will do. So, here's what I did. The Tyco mentioned has a Wizard green-wire arm (measured 2.6 ohms), Tyco quad m/mags, pick-ups are stock Tyco step shoes w/hole drilled through and G type ski shoes cut down and soldered to stock shoes through hole, gears are 8/20 or 21 forget which, Wizard sili-foam .468, stock pick-up springs.
The G3 has a gold-power h/stock (don't remember whose) arm, m/mags Lucky Bobs (zapped and matched), ski-type G pick-ups (shunted from p/u to top side of shoe hanger), 8/20 gears, .480 lo-tac silis, pre-tweaked end-bell.
..................looking forward to the races and results, Peter
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Apr 17, 2013 16:54:39 GMT -7
Hey pceng, I look forward to seeing how that Tyco 440 does,I have the same parts for one but since this was my first inline build I stuck with the G. One car has a 2.8 arm with bearings and gold end housing,they both have gold springs.Other is 3.0 arm with one bearing in housing.I believe they both have 8/22 gears.
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kbuck
Pro Stock
"THUNDER BUCK RACEWAY"
Posts: 437
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Post by kbuck on Apr 17, 2013 18:42:16 GMT -7
Hey guys, very interested to see difference between two MM/PS I've sent to upcoming race. Did one build from Sam's, how too, a G3. Wanted to see what a Tyco could do, so second car is a green-wire Tyco with Quad magnets. Had though the Quad mags to be stronger than stock 440 but since going through what Tyco mags I have. The strongest matched pair are stock 440 (slightly less than one quad mag of only quad set not going to Colorado). Was wondering if anyone knew of source to get stronger ceramics. Also thought that if we knew what types of chassis entrants were sending to race and what had been done to them. When come race day we all might learn from seeing what different builds will do. So, here's what I did. The Tyco mentioned has a Wizard green-wire arm (measured 2.6 ohms), Tyco quad m/mags, pick-ups are stock Tyco step shoes w/hole drilled through and G type ski shoes cut down and soldered to stock shoes through hole, gears are 8/20 or 21 forget which, Wizard sili-foam .468, stock pick-up springs. The G3 has a gold-power h/stock (don't remember whose) arm, m/mags Lucky Bobs (zapped and matched), ski-type G pick-ups (shunted from p/u to top side of shoe hanger), 8/20 gears, .480 lo-tac silis, pre-tweaked end-bell. ..................looking forward to the races and results, Peter Peter, Let me get this straight, you want me to give my secrets away? Oh, I know, you just want to know how I beat you. LOL Well, if you must know, my MM/PS is a G-3, armature from Lucky Bobs, Pre-tweeked end bell, all gold electrical and shoes, silicone tires. Oh yea, and a body by SKR. Good Luck |
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kbuck
Pro Stock
"THUNDER BUCK RACEWAY"
Posts: 437
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Post by kbuck on Apr 17, 2013 20:27:36 GMT -7
Oh yea,,and 9/20 gear set up.
Good luck
Keith
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 18, 2013 6:53:39 GMT -7
One is a G3, Arm 3.0 ohm with burn spots on com only one I had, magnets mismatched and weak also all I had, elect. hardware gold, endbell tweaked by me, tires .480, gear ratio 8/21, braided pick up shoes. Second car is a Wizard Patriot and it's a secret   Dang forgot about pics under Blacktop Raceway thread  |
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Post by pceng on Apr 20, 2013 10:03:26 GMT -7
Thanks guys, for being forthcoming and sharing info. Seems like all the others must be very confident in their builds and knowledge.
............................ PC
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Post by pceng on Apr 22, 2013 9:00:05 GMT -7
Hey guys, after race results looks like the 20t crowns are no good. Will send MM/PS in May with different crowns and tire sizes to get better idea. Wondering about bushings and bearings, which way is MM/PS going to go? Saw that Sam, said something about OK for race, rules might change. That's if I remember correct.
Also was wondering how the top secret Patriot did, spent last night looking at the one P2 I have next to a tyco .........hmmmm
.........tia..........Peter
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