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Post by SKR on Dec 21, 2013 9:11:25 GMT -7
I'm starting this thread for those that want to share tech tips or ideas they have specifically pertaining to this class. I know there are other threads out there about this subject but I feel it belongs in tech tips so its easier to find. Has anybody tried this yet? I changed out the 9T pinion with a 14T pinion and used a T-Jet 3rd gear as my second in my 4G chassis. No track time on it but it sounds much stronger than the stock configuration on a break in machine. My modified version compared to stock.  As you can see I had to remove the 2nd gear post and drill a hole to adapt it this way.  Here is the 3rd gear from a Aurora T-Jet  Since I removed the stock 2nd from the 4G, I had to come up with a way to secure gear #3. I used these small screws I picked up on ebay and an armature washer.   |
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Dec 21, 2013 11:01:58 GMT -7
I tried it last year at the Rocky Mountain Spring Nationals.Car blew out the crown gear in qualifying do to the motor being to strong.I haven't worked with it since.
Hope it works out for you.
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Post by pceng on Dec 21, 2013 13:15:21 GMT -7
Phantom, crown gears don't seem to last long in this class. Spacing of gears to prevent movement becomes more critical with low ohm winds. Stock crowns don't hold up in slower classes. I've put reshaped A/FX in and haven't had one of those go yet. That is in the DS, M/TF, and M/FC. Only five ohms, but others loose gears in these classes. Hope this helps.
Has anyone tried fitting an inline crown? Maybe a 20T? Haven't had time to try.
...........................................................PC
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Dec 21, 2013 23:44:02 GMT -7
Phantom, crown gears don't seem to last long in this class. Spacing of gears to prevent movement becomes more critical with low ohm winds. Stock crowns don't hold up in slower classes. I've put reshaped A/FX in and haven't had one of those go yet. That is in the DS, M/TF, and M/FC. Only five ohms, but others loose gears in these classes. Hope this helps. Has anyone tried fitting an inline crown? Maybe a 20T? Haven't had time to try. ...........................................................PC I have a 20t in my Nova Doorslammer.Took a lot of mods to the chassis and top plate to make it work but it works great. |
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Post by AJR on Dec 22, 2013 7:02:15 GMT -7
We have used Wizzard pro predator and super tough 20t gears and destroyed them all in the F.E.D.'s. Currently using 20t silicon bronze  . Haven't destroyed that one....lol. All of those had to be modified, as well as the chassis as Phantom mentioned, for them to work. Various shimming and beefing up of other areas has gone along with it as well. I am currently doing a complete rebuild of my Blue F.E.D. now. I will post some pics in a couple of days. Currently into the frustrating part of the build......the gears  |
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Post by AJR on Dec 28, 2013 16:41:58 GMT -7
Here are a couple of pics of one of my F.E.D. projects. I wanted to try brush cups and see how they work, also installed ball bearings on the rear axle, and most obvious is the crown gear. Extensive mods had to be done to the chassis and the gear to get this to work. Some of this is new to me.....first time for bearings and brush cups. It has definitely presented some challenges. Initial run did not go well. Car was slow...slow. Something wrong and going to have to build a hybrid cluster gear for it. It has already torn the stock one up. Tried and true Orange F.E.D. ran very well. Pretty much going to put it up till the race. Credit Eagle for the innovative gear ideas.
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Post by SKR on Dec 28, 2013 23:03:19 GMT -7
Made about 20 passes tonight and didn't hurt any gears  It still needs more on the top end as it tops out at about 10'. I did de-tune mine and am now running a 5.0 ohm Tjetsgrigs armature with Nacho polymers. It ran a best of .55 @ 26+ mph. Not as quick as Ninjas or JJ's (.52-.54) on the old Psycho Slots drag strip here last year during the Rocky Mountain Spring Nats but it's in the ball park to be competitive. Made one mod since my last post: Made some bushings for my 2nd gear out of 3/16" brass tubing.    What's next? Maybe taller tires and some rear gear mods. |
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Post by SKR on Dec 29, 2013 10:56:43 GMT -7
took some notes from Eagle Racing's thread and dived into some rear end modifications. I couldn't find any 20T metal crowns but had a 22T that I did some practice on until I get a few later this week. After cutting off the flange , I soldered it back on to the opposite side of the gear to have something for the axle to bite on to, as Eagle suggested.  getting ready to solder  cleaned up after solder  the rear cluster. Made some bushings for the top plate and 4th gear. I'm using a bearing on top to help with the slop. That's it for the rear end mods for now. Need to get some more supplies to finish what I want to do   Forgot to post this mod I did last week. Its a quick way to tune brush spring tension. I cut the metal brush spring fingers off of the underside of a Magna-Traction chassis, bent them slightly and screwed to the bottom of my chassis. Works as dual purpose. Holds my shunts in place and allows me to adjust spring tension on the brushes. Much easier to tune than taking it all apart to adjust the springs and then put it back together.  |
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Post by AJR on Dec 29, 2013 13:38:18 GMT -7
That car is a thing of beauty Sam. I'm not that good yet. Looks like it may hold up pretty well and already has. You probably already know this, but Lucky Bob's has Wizzard silicon bronze gears from 20t on up. Good luck to you at the race and season.
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Post by pceng on Dec 29, 2013 13:57:42 GMT -7
Hey Sam, and Jeff,
The pics you guys are posting of your work are great! Looks like both of you are pinning the rear cluster gears together. Question, what are you using for pins?
......................................tia, Peter
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Post by AJR on Dec 29, 2013 14:44:59 GMT -7
I havent pinned the cluster yet, but have been thinking about it. I think that needs to happen to completely secure it. I have relied completely on the adhesive shear strength. Very good question about the pins. Sam how are the cluster gears secured? Are they pressed onto the pin?
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Post by SKR on Dec 30, 2013 17:27:46 GMT -7
I drilled holes and was going to use piano wire and glue to secure the gears together. I want to use screws but need to find some smaller ones other than the ones I have. end of the year "Use it... or Lose it" vacation time. I've had way too much time off these last few weeks. Oh well, more builds in the process. Since my N-T/F #1 car runs decent, I don't want to mess with it too much so..... I decided to do another build. The rear cluster is definitely the weakest part of the 4 gear cars with it only having one side secured to the chassis top plate. I decided to try something different. These mods below show upper and lower bushings for the rear cluster. I made a brass plate that screws down to the 4G top plate so that I could add another bushing. Sanded the top plate smooth.   Rear cluster assembly. Yup, that is a stock motor pinion from a 4G, It fits quite snug in the 4th gear and also give me something to solder to the pin. I'll solder the lower gear to the pin as well. I thought I had taken a picture of it but I guess not. There is also a rear bushing soldered to the brass plate for the 4th gear.   finished assembly  |
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Post by ninjatek on Dec 30, 2013 19:42:03 GMT -7
. . . end of the year "Use it... or Lose it" vacation time. I've had way too much time off these last few weeks. Oh well, more builds in the process. Looks like time well spent. Outrageous build! Look forward to seeing how it performs. |
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Post by Eagle Racing on Dec 31, 2013 5:31:40 GMT -7
Very SWEET!! I like what you are doing here Sam.
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Post by pceng on Jan 1, 2014 10:19:22 GMT -7
Hey Sam,
Happy Birthday and many more bud! Know it's got to be close.
Looks like some things are changing in the progression of the build. The gear pressed into the 4th gear is just what I've been looking for. Been thinking of strap of sorts over rear to spread bushing points as much as possible to get cluster stable.
.......................... Peter
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. Haven't destroyed that one....lol. All of those had to be modified, as well as the chassis as Phantom mentioned, for them to work. Various shimming and beefing up of other areas has gone along with it as well. I am currently doing a complete rebuild of my Blue F.E.D. now. I will post some pics in a couple of days. Currently into the frustrating part of the build......the gears 
