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Post by TGM2054 on Feb 4, 2014 11:35:30 GMT -7
This past weekend while I was at the local Lowes picking up materails for some jobs I just happened to pick up sheet of MDF for the new Des Moines Dragway. I plan on using the old frame work from the original, but being as I'll router ( or mabe cut the slot with a thin kerf saw ) , I'll be able to space the lanes further apart.
The old track was built in three sections, making it possible to be set up as a 1/4 mile or an 1/8th mile with the same 7'6" shut down area.
Here's my questions, does anyone have any experience with so called "magnetic" paint? I've heard it has some magnetic attraction but not a lot. I'm just wondering if it's worth the extra cost. Also I'm thinking about using copper tape for the rails, and I'm wondering if it will cause a problem with the pick up shoes making contact properly.
As far as the rest of the electricals , I'll use the original AFX tri power power packs, one per lane, the old wiring, and my Slot Dragon timing system. I'll eventually up grade the controllers. I've got a couple of Parma 35 and 45 OHM controllers and a Parma 2.5 OHM from my old days of racing 1/25th's.
Any ideas are welcome. Thanks folks.
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Feb 4, 2014 12:21:53 GMT -7
I have used copper tape in the past,placed over the rail of a Life Like track and it worked fine.
The rail gave the track it's magnetic down force and the copper tape was easier on the pickup
shoes and they stayed clean longer.I have also raced on a routed road course track that used
copper tape only and it worked great.Everything on the track handled like a T-jet.As for magnetic
paint,if you are looking to gain down force with it I'm not sure if it will work since the motor
mags are are north and south pole.
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Post by pceng on Feb 4, 2014 20:54:40 GMT -7
Hey Tom,
From what I understand, the black build-up on shoes is because of electric flow through dissimilar metals. Something to do with the difference in speed which the current flows between the two metals because of the molecular density of each. If I'm correct, the pick ups try to pull current from the track faster than the rail can release it. And the result is the black build-up.
Putting tape over the rails like Phantom, said. Sounds like a good way of keeping the downforce to me. Got some of that tape, someplace.......lol
Let us know what you do, good luck Peter
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Post by pceng on Feb 4, 2014 21:19:35 GMT -7
Just caught the part aboout the controlers. Have some Parma's myself. The ones that you have sound perfect to me. My favorite for drag racing is the loooowest ohm I have . Forget what it is off-hand think maybe 10 ohm. Faster current flow means faster RPM! This reguardless of armature type. I would only use higher ohm controls for road-racing where a wider responce range is more helpfull for various type arms. In truth, I like the 10ohm for road,racing too (wired a small toggle for on/off for brake, coast or no coast at your finger). Though a higher ohm motor can be hard to control, I like the instant punch from the low ohm conttol.
...................... Peter
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Post by pceng on Feb 12, 2014 21:31:11 GMT -7
Not sure if this.belongs here. Been thinking of portable (3pc). Something that could stand in closet when not in use. Was looking at what I think was 1/32 track at Hobby Lobby. Could have been 1/43 not familiar with either. Was about 3 1/2" wide, looked like a nice spacing for HO drag. Rail was flat about width of a 4g pick-up. Slot was wide, but could be remidied.
Wondering how the different (flat) rail compares with the narrow HO type or round rail in routed tracks ? My immediate though was the wide flat rail could be a plus. Having a greater contact area. Any body familiar with this type of rail ?
..............................tia, PC
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Post by Phantom B.S.E. on Feb 13, 2014 0:47:40 GMT -7
The only problem I have found with using a 1/32 scale track is the tires riding the rail.The flat rail was wider when I measured from outside edge to outside edge,but I don't remember what brand of 1/32 track I was looking at.
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Post by pceng on Feb 13, 2014 6:32:57 GMT -7
Hey Tom(Phantom),
Did not think of that, compared with AW track at ttime and rails looked to be the same (centers). Have to bring something to measure outside to outside edge.
Thinking about it, I've made some pretty narrow rears to get inside wheel wells. Probably more narrow than overall width of pickups.
Mmmmmm...........thanks, Peter
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