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Post by Eagle Racing on Jun 21, 2014 14:14:10 GMT -7
dave I sure hope you have that decimal point in the wrong place on the G+ car. I sure hope you are not using a tire traction product on those sponge tires. As far as electrical goes take the car apart clean everything. The copper parts should shine bright not dull. Make sure your magnets are not dragging the track. I would also check the voltage to the rails on the track. If you have good contact you should have 20 volts from start to finish. There are lots of variables to make cars run this slow. These are just a few.
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Post by AJR on Jun 21, 2014 14:44:27 GMT -7
Dave I think when you get that new power supply your cars are going to wake up. When I had my little test track before I built the big one I was running with a wall wart. I got my power supply which is a 0-30v 0-10a and hooked it up to test it. I was building an unlimited 4g at the time and decided to run it. Track was only 10ft long. That car blasted thru the catch towels I had and out of the room. I was blown away at the difference just the amps made. With the wart the car would hit the towel without a lot of impact. You should see the same.
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Post by dave632 on Jun 21, 2014 18:12:50 GMT -7
EAGLE --- I guess I am still racing my full size cars at the back of my mind. That 7.92 is about what the Beretta would run on motor in the 1/4, the correct time was .792. I recently had a Super G + run a .794 which was by far the best for one of those cars so far. I then of course had a match race between the 2 with some close races. The old G plus took 2 out of 3. I have surely cleaned the commutator and installed new brushes when necessary. I already had experience with magnets dragging the track, one of the cars stopped dead when it hit a joint so hard it ripped the body off. I am going to do some volts and amp checks on the track under load. I use no traction compound on the tires but I do put my hand in front of the car and let the tires spin, I also like the way the track looks with rubber marks on each lane. I guess I am still thinking what works on full size cars might work here. Let me know if that is a good idea.
JJ--- Sounds good, I am looking forward to the new supply. I will put some more cushioning at the end of the track just in case
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Post by Eagle Racing on Jun 21, 2014 20:43:59 GMT -7
Dave HO slot cars love clean tracks, so I would clean those marks off.
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Post by dave632 on Jun 22, 2014 8:55:17 GMT -7
Yes I believe a clean track would be slightly quicker. I just like the look of the rubber marks, even my son thought it looked cool. I will try timing a car before and after cleaning just to see what happens.
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Post by pceng on Jun 22, 2014 11:23:36 GMT -7
Yes I believe a clean track would be slightly quicker. I just like the look of the rubber marks, even my son thought it looked cool. I will try timing a car before and after cleaning just to see what happens. Hey Dave, for the look you could use artist charcoal sticks then spray with dul-cote or matte, tape rails first. |
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Post by kdog on Nov 22, 2014 7:08:50 GMT -7
I was killing time a couple of days ago and checked out the Max Trax website and noticed they are using a photo of my track to showoff their Drag Strips, how COOL....  Just to share the busy looking area to the left is my Mountain Bike repair area I build, paint, and sell Custom Mountain bikes as well, and where I work on and clean my fire arms. I would be lost without my basement !!! |
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Post by AJR on Nov 22, 2014 14:05:49 GMT -7
They have good taste Kevin. You have a nice set up!!
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Post by dave632 on Nov 22, 2014 18:59:56 GMT -7
I will have to look at the MaxTrax site to see your strip as an example of how to do it. I may also steal some of your ideas for my new track room.
I was just reading this post from several months ago. Since I have added a new power supply and got the cars running better + making mods to some of the them my times have improved drastically. I don't think many T jets will come near some of my inlines now.
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Post by mike11422 on Nov 22, 2014 23:43:58 GMT -7
Dave, Better watch out for those N/TF's thou. They come pretty close to the mm/ps cars. But inlines still rule. Boom.
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Post by kdog on Nov 23, 2014 6:50:18 GMT -7
I will have to look at the MaxTrax site to see your strip as an example of how to do it. I may also steal some of your ideas for my new track room. I was just reading this post from several months ago. Since I have added a new power supply and got the cars running better + making mods to some of the them my times have improved drastically. I don't think many T jets will come near some of my inlines now. Thanks to everyone for the complements. use any ideas you wish, don't know if you can see but I mounted track lighting to the ceiling above the start and finish sensors, the holigan bulbs are plenty strong, just need folks from putting hands over track for that second the race is going on, we haven't had a mishap yet. I am pleased with the Max Trax very easy to assemble and super smooth to run on, I love the divider they built into the staging area I do need to paint a start line been procrastinating about that. |
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Post by dave632 on Nov 23, 2014 9:48:52 GMT -7
I also have a Halogen bulb over each IR detector. I rarely get any erroneous readings with that setup.
Most of the cars I run picked up several hundredths in ET when I switched to the MaxTrax. Saw your track on the Maxtrax site, looks good.
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Post by dave632 on Nov 24, 2014 13:32:41 GMT -7
Dave, Better watch out for those N/TF's thou. They come pretty close to the mm/ps cars. But inlines still rule. Boom. The N/TF I believe run at 26v vs the MM/PS at 18v. That is like spotting them 1/4 of the track. At the same voltage it is no contest. I have not been able to get any 4 gears running well no matter what I have done to them. I took my quickest 4 gear which has poly mags, 6 ohm arm, braids and shunts. It runs 1.0972 at 9.78mph with a pretty good 60' of .0876. This was a car that I sent in to one of the Pro Stock races this year and it won a round. Just for demo and curiosity purposes I ran it against my fastest inline which will be run in the outlaw race in Jan. I started the 4 gear at the 1/8th mile mark with the inline running the full 15' 7" both at 20v. The inline still won by .1704 The spot was actually 10' 3" or 2/3rds of the track. It was like my Beretta running against a ricer. I have not given up on getting a 4 gear running better and Jim is working on one for me but as a basic gear setup it is by far the worst idea out there. They should have simply extended the front end out a 1/4 inch and left the 3 gear setup alone, those I can get running pretty good as they murder the 4 gears all day.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Nov 24, 2014 13:51:10 GMT -7
Dave at this years Summer Nationals the TQ .499 for N/TF would have qualified 5th in MM/PS. They both run at 26 volts. Not bad for a 4 Gear. |
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Post by dave632 on Nov 24, 2014 14:15:21 GMT -7
Looks like I have a lot of work to do to match that time for a 4 gear.
Do they use stock arms, by that I mean the stock 6 ohm?
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