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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2014 16:21:15 GMT -7
Dave, all good points and I agree.
however. it might be fair to post the price of the Trackmate 3000HO as compared to the price of the SlotDragon.
yep, I agree, the SlotDragon is a good starter and amateur drag timing system and for the cost is a fair investment.
similarly, Trackmate basic with the Xmas tree only on the monitor is about the same price and has several more features which are attractive.
but I don't think it is comparable to match the Trackmate 3000HO against the SlotDragon.
What does the Trackmate 3000HO, with all those wonderful features, cost?
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Post by SKR on Sept 12, 2014 16:39:14 GMT -7
Track Mate's Drag Systems: DP3000 HO $795.00 DP2000 HO $544.00 Drag Basic $119.00 Track Mate
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JW
Pro Stock
you can follow my YouTube channel @jwmoor
Posts: 168
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Post by JW on Sept 12, 2014 16:54:56 GMT -7
Hey Dave632, you said "It does give a time on a red light but it does start the system when the sensor is uncovered. " so the SD2 does give ET even on a red light? Or am I missing something?
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Post by kiwidave on Sept 12, 2014 17:52:34 GMT -7
Yes that is correct jwmoor. SD2 will still give an ET with a red light.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2014 18:01:03 GMT -7
yes, that is correct , SD2 will give an ET and an RT on a red light.
and I think I wrote that in my earlier dissertation.
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Post by dave632 on Sept 12, 2014 20:25:54 GMT -7
Yes, as stated, and confirmed by others, it does give a time even with a red light. Even if you wait a while after the tree goes green it will still give you a time.
I cannot say it is a fair comparison between the SD system and the Trackmate. The slot dragon cost around $200 with shipping and the TM3000HO with win lights, which I just ordered today, cost me $916 with shipping.
I have had no problems with the SD system, it works great, but I was looking for a more sophisticated system and more racing information. In full size racing your MPH shows how much HP you are making and your ET shows how well it is getting to the track. The ET between 2 cars can be very close but the MPH between those cars can vary greatly in some cases. By looking at where the times are in the 60', 1/8th, 1/4 and the MPH I can determine where the car is performing well or laying down.
I surely recommend the slot dragon for anyone looking who wants a good timing system at a reasonable price.
JJWallace stated, "I also had trouble with double counting when running open bodied cars or dragsters with the SD". Some of the cars I have ran have a window or some opening in the body that allows enough light thru so that the system sees the second trigger thru the window and gives an ET which is incorrect and usually very quick. I solved this problem by covering up any windows, or holes in the bodies, from the bottom. One other problem that I had on some cars was when there was too much brush noise causing excess RF. This would false trigger the timer. Breaking the brushes in helped a lot with that trouble. SD said they have added a capacitor to the system to combat that problem.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2014 3:46:23 GMT -7
all electronic devices are subject to interference from Radio Frequency transmissions which can be a result of sparks from the electrical system or a pickup shoe lifting too far.
John Sojack, who used to manufacture Trik Trax Drag Trax timing systems, always included capacitors to place between the rails at power taps, which I also encourage.
Jim Sgrig likes to put aluminum foil around the sensor wires as additional shielding as well.
Tim Kirk, Steve Geary and Slugger like putting a capacitor IN the pancake motored car to help alleviate the RF.
all together or individually, there can still be an RF strong enough to trigger the timing system and cause false ET and other sensor readings.
as suggested complete and proper break in and set up will help to diminish this problem.
dave, good post about the separate results of ET and MPH.
and of course, you are correct. the more parameters you can gather, the better you can tune the car to produce maximum output throughout the power curve.
I hadn't realized the price increase in the SD. it was $120 shipped when I bought them.
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Post by SKR on Sept 13, 2014 4:33:25 GMT -7
Dave you'll like the DP3000. It's pricey but does have all the bells and whistles. Here is a picture of a race you'll appreciate. Left lane car has a bad 60' time and starts to gain a little at the 660' mark. Left lane runs down the right lane and wins on a hole shot. Since this picture was taken I have also installed the 1000' sensor on my track. Daniel sells them with the U-sensor for 1/24 drag strips but will change them over to infrared sensors if you request it.  |
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JW
Pro Stock
you can follow my YouTube channel @jwmoor
Posts: 168
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Post by JW on Sept 13, 2014 5:55:55 GMT -7
SKR, Just out of curiosity, what voltage are you running?
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Post by SKR on Sept 13, 2014 6:49:56 GMT -7
I run inlines at 26V
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2014 7:15:52 GMT -7
almost hijacked your thread.
moved my question elsewhere.
carry on. LOL
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Post by dave632 on Sept 13, 2014 8:11:10 GMT -7
Dave you'll like the DP3000. It's pricey but does have all the bells and whistles. Here is a picture of a race you'll appreciate. Left lane car has a bad 60' time and starts to gain a little at the 660' mark. Left lane runs down the right lane and wins on a hole shot. Since this picture was taken I have also installed the 1000' sensor on my track. Daniel sells them with the U-sensor for 1/24 drag strips but will change them over to infrared sensors if you request it. |
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Post by dave632 on Sept 13, 2014 8:18:52 GMT -7
Yes that system sure has more information.
That is a close race, .0009 MOV. I did not know the system went all the way to the 10 thousands. I actually had one dead heat on the SD system which is timed to the thousandth. Both win lights came on.
Pretty quick times and 38/34 mph speed. I am looking forward to more inline races in the future. Stopping cars at that speed becomes a concern.
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