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Post by dave632 on Nov 8, 2014 8:54:34 GMT -7
Read some outrageous times on this site, www.sluggercan.com/. These cars have to be running at some real high voltages and amperage. Hooking them up must be a chore along with parts breakage/armature meltdown. Stopping must be a real problem too. It must be hard to even see these car run, you would need a high speed camera to see the run. I am all for some high performance but this is beyond reason. This is why rules are needed to keep performance within reason. It is hard enough to see some of the cars we run now. |
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Post by mike11422 on Nov 8, 2014 13:56:06 GMT -7
Those unlimited classes are usually for those with the deep pockets and or creative in their builds. I am one for less demanding builds that don't require extensive time. If I were retired I'd probably have more interest in more classes but time isn't on my side at the moment.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2014 13:58:00 GMT -7
refer to DRHOE ... Drag Racing H O Extreme
I have competed with those guys and held the 0.182 ET record for awhile.
they race at 28 volts on 17 feet of track.
they use bar stock in the shut down that stops the cars quick because of the neo traction magnets.
in fact, they wax the shut down so the tires will slide and not peel the silicone off the foam rubber.
very, very few people even race those rules anymore, but it was fun while i did.
and yes, mucho money.
amrs are $40.00 and up.they can grenade at anytime and rarely do you get more than ten passes if they last that long.
Slugger is a great guy and just wanted to see how far one could go.
he figures the parameters, provides the funding and has Steve Geary of Nebraska build the cars to his spec and test them.
Slugger will then build some of his own which frequently are quicker than Steve's
one must be aware that there is a possibility of Steve shortening the distance covered to be able to boast lower ET's.
Slugger wouldn't do or condone that.
PS, they use gasket adhesive on the starting line and some distance down the track.
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Post by dave632 on Nov 8, 2014 16:50:31 GMT -7
Congrats on holding the ET record for awhile. You answered my questions as to how they hook up that much power, how they stop, and what voltage they run at. Gasket adhesive!!!, thought that would be too sticky. On the full size tracks I ran they would VHT the full track. 27 volts, I would have guessed more like 50. I am thinking of using steel bar to stop the cars on my track since my stopping area is short but I never thought of waxing the shutdown. IF we ran a class like that I would surely give it a try but I like to be able to SEE the cars go down the track. Anybody ever figure what RPMs these cars are running? Is that speed shown the actual MPH? Those cars would make a Top Fuel dragster look bad for the first 60 feet. I believe they only are at about 80mph at the 60' mark and it takes them .8 seconds to get there.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2014 17:09:27 GMT -7
to the best of my knowledge, those are real 1:1 MPH, not multiplied to achieve scale equivalent.
amazing, ain't it?
Sgrig gets t-jets to 80+ MPH
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Post by dave632 on Nov 8, 2014 17:47:50 GMT -7
Absolutely unreal.
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JW
Pro Stock
you can follow my YouTube channel @jwmoor
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Post by JW on Nov 8, 2014 18:46:55 GMT -7
I used to run 36v @5amps running stock or 6ohm inlines. It was a blast, rubber would fly off rims, cars would jump off the track and yes the arms would go up in smoke. In a way though it was sort of like the big guys. And yes it does get expensive, now I just run 24v @5 amp....
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Post by dave632 on Nov 8, 2014 19:44:30 GMT -7
I would think we should keep things sane on this site. I think 24 volts should be enough to satisfy most of us. We can still get some of these cars to run crazy fast at that voltage. Even at 20v some of mine are running pretty good. However I am sure one day I will crank my 30v power supply all the way up and watch the fireworks.
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Post by pceng on Nov 8, 2014 22:00:24 GMT -7
There are a number of NTRA classes that run mid 20 v's. Think most are lower. Expense becomes issue when putting high volts/amps to cars. More repeated expense. Not good for a proxy format.
Somebody is always putting high volts to stuff..... I think JW , does it regularly. But 2 12v batteries are not unusual. Remember seeing someone running on house outlet....... Don't remember if a converter was used or how it was done.
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Post by AJR on Nov 9, 2014 7:05:21 GMT -7
I would think we should keep things sane on this site. I think 24 volts should be enough to satisfy most of us. We can still get some of these cars to run crazy fast at that voltage. Even at 20v some of mine are running pretty good. However I am sure one day I will crank my 30v power supply all the way up and watch the fireworks. Dave the classes that are run on the forum have a suggested voltage for them to be run at. That is not always posted in the rules though. What we have done is research past races or ask Cordell if we did not know what they were. I am and always have been in favor of either set voltages or a narrowed range for voltages of any given class. The way we have done it since we started running proxy events at Bear Creek and Blacktop is to be consistent with the voltage. Stock classes (Street, Tjet stock, NF/C, etc.) run at 13.8v, slightly modified lower ohm arm classes (Gasser, Pro Street, Doorslammer, etc.) run at 18v, slightly hotter builds with poly magnets run at the higher voltages. MF/C and TF are basically the same build so we set the voltage on the MF/C for 24v so it will be slightly slower than the TF dragsters which we run at 26v......like in 1 to 1. TF, NT/F (unlimited), and MM/PS (modified inline) all run at 26v. We do not go above 26v. We basically give each build the voltage they need to run properly. I set my amperage on my power supply to provide all that it will for every class (10 amps). I never adjust that lower. Amperage is where it's at and I want them to have all that I can give them (cars are only going to use what they need). Some of these classes do not need to be run at higher voltages as they will end up tearing themselves apart. Doorslammers were run this season at 27v battery power for one event that I entered. I have a car that runs pretty well at 18v and ran very well at 27v until it shredded the plastic crown gear. I knew ahead of time of the possibility of that happening. At the suggested 18v everything is just fine, but at 27v it tore itself apart. I won't do that again. I recommend running classes at past race values as they have been proven. Everybody has their own opinion but this is just how we do it and has worked very well for the last 3 years and (9) proxy events. FYI........ Jeff |
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Post by dave632 on Nov 9, 2014 8:24:19 GMT -7
I agree as I stated. Things need to be kept at a sane level. I was always looking for more speed and power in my full size car but I reached a stage where I could no longer put what was available to the ground. The chassis I had could not take it. However maybe one wild inline shootout a year could be tolerated if we keep the voltage down to say 20-24 volts. I also think we should try to keep voltages fairly consistent for different classes but some consideration should be given to those who do not have an adjustable power supply. I understand that amps are only useful if they are needed, I was an electronics tech for 25 years.
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Post by pceng on Nov 9, 2014 8:36:42 GMT -7
Congrats on the record , Al ! .......... had no idea.
...... Peter
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Post by AJR on Nov 9, 2014 8:58:23 GMT -7
I agree as I stated. Things need to be kept at a sane level. I was always looking for more speed and power in my full size car but I reached a stage where I could no longer put what was available to the ground. The chassis I had could not take it. However maybe one wild inline shootout a year could be tolerated if we keep the voltage down to say 20-24 volts. I also think we should try to keep voltages fairly consistent for different classes but some consideration should be given to those who do not have an adjustable power supply. I understand that amps are only useful if they are needed, I was an electronics tech for 25 years. Once again.......only my opinion.......but if someone does not have an adjustable power supply, then they should only run classes that they can support with the power supply that they have (wall wart, etc.). I would be ok with that if it were me. Power supplies these days have come way down in price, but when I started I was and still am on a tight budget. So I can understand that everyone cannot afford that. I as a racer would feel much better about running my stock builds on a wall wart supplied track rather than my Doorslammer or MF/C. I build for the voltage that cars are run at. When that starts getting out of kilter then it's just a guess as to what the cars are going to do. That's the reason I am the way I am about set or narrowed ranges on class voltages. Amps is where it's at though. Without the proper amps, these cars won't run no matter what volts you put on them. Wall warts don't even make an amp. Anyway this discussion could go on and on and everybody has a different idea of how proxy events should run. We will stick with whats worked for us. Any questions you might have would probably be best answered by Ninjatek when it comes down to it. Once again....IMHO. |
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Post by dave632 on Nov 9, 2014 9:04:41 GMT -7
I agree.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2014 9:26:14 GMT -7
my short experience and exposure here indicates that there are pretty much set voltages as outlined.
no reason to mess with that. I haven't run any 1/64 slot car at less than 24 volts for 20 some odd years until I started racing these rules.
I am happy to have all promoters/race masters aboard regardless of their pocketbook, track, power, timing availability.
I do agree that power limitations and/or shut down availability should help dictate classes to be run at any given track.
I, for one, don't want to be trying to shut down a 30 MPH car in two feet.
exaggeration, but I think most will get the idea.
I race for fun first. I like to win, as do all of us. I find that a lot of folks are happiest having "grudge" matches and "call out" races at the live events I help with.
"practice" seems to be much more fun for many, because a single win is great and having to prove more is not essential.
sometimes i think having a "test N tune" for a day might be the best thing for the average racer.
proxy racing is something else entirely and we are, each, at the mercy of the handlers (race master and crew) at any given event.
dynasties appear in every line of racing I have ever been involved with,
that being said, some folks will stop entering if it is obvious they always have no chance of winning.
too many solid racing groups and even retail tracks have been laid to waste because of exactly those symptoms.
I ask those who win repeatedly to occasionally NOT enter one class or enter one of the secondary cars.
got to keep everyone at every level interested.
OK, OK, I know ....
off my soap box for now.
thanks for reading(listening).
alpink
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