lewis
Pro Stock
Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 29, 2015 18:10:30 GMT -7
Lol Alan you don't want to go to new York. Stay south.
I am going to try to bypass all of this and see what it will do when I get a few days off from work. I'm really starting to get these things in my blood thanks to al. The car he sent really got my blood flowing lol. I think I'm going ro stick with inlines for now and build them as fast as I can.
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Post by dave632 on Mar 29, 2015 18:46:39 GMT -7
Dave i meant mega g I hit the wrong button. Lol big fingers little phone. I think its is just quietens the motor from noise I don't see any other purpose. I will send you a pic of the car I'm talking about when I get back to the house. OK thanks. I was thinking of putting a non polarized 50v electrolytic on a chassis just to see if the revs pick up or if it would smooth out some. That worked on the RC cars we used to race, especially when the comm was worn. Does not seem like these cars would generate enough RF to cause problems but I think in some cases they will cause TV interference especially on older TVs with unshielded ant cable. Newer TVs are better shielded in the RF and IF sections so I don't think it is much of a problem there.
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Post by pceng on Mar 29, 2015 20:30:10 GMT -7
Dave i meant mega g I hit the wrong button. Lol big fingers little phone. I think its is just quietens the motor from noise I don't see any other purpose. I will send you a pic of the car I'm talking about when I get back to the house. OK thanks. I was thinking of putting a non polarized 50v electrolytic on a chassis just to see if the revs pick up or if it would smooth out some. That worked on the RC cars we used to race, especially when the comm was worn. Does not seem like these cars would generate enough RF to cause problems but I think in some cases they will cause TV interference especially on older TVs with unshielded ant cable. Newer TVs are better shielded in the RF and IF sections so I don't think it is much of a problem there.
Older tv's with unshielded cable........... lol , thought you were going to say tubes. ........ Peter |
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Post by pceng on Mar 29, 2015 21:00:32 GMT -7
Alan, mentioned AM radio & hearing difference in interference whlie revving motor. If radio (am) and power are operated from same outlet. Radio will act like an amplification system for brush noise when setting pitch or breaking in brushes. Heard about it years ago, probably more useful for pancakes. But now I'm wondering if the sweet spot would be easier to hit on cars w/adjustable tubes.
......... Peter
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Post by dave632 on Mar 30, 2015 7:54:49 GMT -7
Lol Alan you don't want to go to new York. Stay south. I am going to try to bypass all of this and see what it will do when I get a few days off from work. I'm really starting to get these things in my blood thanks to al. The car he sent really got my blood flowing lol. I think I'm going ro stick with inlines for now and build them as fast as I can. I lived in Staten Island New York a long time ago, the Island was not so bad way back as you needed to take a ferry to get to N.Y. New York city reminds me of a bunch of rats running around, nasty place. Upstate New York is not so bad. Lewis you and I are not so common on this site and on other slot car sites there is hardly any interest in drag racing or making the cars go quicker.. You can get a lot more attention with a fancy wheel than you can with a slot car that hits a 100mph. It is tough to get these cars to run fast and if you do it seems to be taken negatively in some cases. Hopefully others will join in and want to see how quick we can get these little monsters run. A place to run and stop them becomes a big problem. I am not against running HO cars with rules and like that challenge too. The 3 gear pancakes that I run at 20 volts with stock 6 ohm armatures are very competitive with 6 Ohm inlines. I have to put traction magnets on them however to be competitive. The quickest time I have for a 6 ohm at 20 volts is held by a pancake. Going under 6 ohms they are no longer competitive and they fall behind. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2015 8:33:52 GMT -7
Tearing down the new chassis is a bit of a trick around the PCB and brush input area. With a few pieces of wire you can short around the the filter network on the PCB in which you will disable the filter and gain back the lost voltage plus you keep the weight of the PCB which I think is needed.
When I get some free time I will post pics of the process.
ALan
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Post by yellerstang on Mar 30, 2015 9:43:44 GMT -7
Lol Alan you don't want to go to new York. Stay south. I am going to try to bypass all of this and see what it will do when I get a few days off from work. I'm really starting to get these things in my blood thanks to al. The car he sent really got my blood flowing lol. I think I'm going ro stick with inlines for now and build them as fast as I can. I lived in Staten Island New York a long time ago, the Island was not so bad way back as you needed to take a ferry to get to N.Y. New York city reminds me of a bunch of rats running around, nasty place. Upstate New York is not so bad. Lewis you and I are not so common on this site and on other slot car sites there is hardly any interest in drag racing or making the cars go quicker.. You can get a lot more attention with a fancy wheel than you can with a slot car that hits a 100mph. It is tough to get these cars to run fast and if you do it seems to be taken negatively in some cases. Hopefully others will join in and want to see how quick we can get these little monsters run. A place to run and stop them becomes a big problem. I am not against running HO cars with rules and like that challenge too. The 3 gear pancakes that I run at 20 volts with stock 6 ohm armatures are very competitive with 6 Ohm inlines. I have to put traction magnets on them however to be competitive. The quickest time I have for a 6 ohm at 20 volts is held by a pancake. Going under 6 ohms they are no longer competitive and they fall behind. For me... I like the speed. I haven't seen really fast slot cars yet. I like the modeling aspect as well. But speed is where its at for me, I have been searching out parts and modding cars, hoping to get something in the 400s sometime. |
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Post by pceng on Mar 30, 2015 9:55:53 GMT -7
Lol Alan you don't want to go to new York. Stay south. I am going to try to bypass all of this and see what it will do when I get a few days off from work. I'm really starting to get these things in my blood thanks to al. The car he sent really got my blood flowing lol. I think I'm going ro stick with inlines for now and build them as fast as I can. I lived in Staten Island New York a long time ago, the Island was not so bad way back as you needed to take a ferry to get to N.Y. New York city reminds me of a bunch of rats running around, nasty place. Upstate New York is not so bad. Lewis you and I are not so common on this site and on other slot car sites there is hardly any interest in drag racing or making the cars go quicker.. You can get a lot more attention with a fancy wheel than you can with a slot car that hits a 100mph. It is tough to get these cars to run fast and if you do it seems to be taken negatively in some cases. Hopefully others will join in and want to see how quick we can get these little monsters run. A place to run and stop them becomes a big problem. I am not against running HO cars with rules and like that challenge too. The 3 gear pancakes that I run at 20 volts with stock 6 ohm armatures are very competitive with 6 Ohm inlines. I have to put traction magnets on them however to be competitive. The quickest time I have for a 6 ohm at 20 volts is held by a pancake. Going under 6 ohms they are no longer competitive and they fall behind. Hey guys, Don't feel so uncommon......... think most here have pushed limits in there own ways. Proxy racing through site has changed over years. Not long ago few modified classes existed. This is the first year with more than one designated inline class. My understanding of the NTRA has been that racing was to be easy for any to join in. Experienced or not while feeling one might be competitive. Honestly , I prefer modifying cars......... but understand the point of making it easy to join in. Often people come on site with little or no experience. Think all of us would like to see the hobby survive (or grow even). But as time has gone on the base of die-hards has grown smaller. Without the influx of new blood, the future dims. Sad but true. ........... Peter |
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lewis
Pro Stock
Posts: 220
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Post by lewis on Mar 30, 2015 12:37:03 GMT -7
All honesty I think I is harder to do the rule than it is to build a full out unlimited. I say this because when I first started getting into this I really had no idea what was what but I could look up parts and see what the biggest wire size and strongest magnets and things were. I knew more where I wanted to be than what i could do by the rules. I'm kind of a see I do it type person or all hand on. For me the inlines are so much simpler than the pancake cars. I know some of the parts are cheaper for pancake style but when you get to making them as fast as possible they get expensive real fast also. I wouldn't mind getting to tjets eventually but for now I'm going to stick with the inline for speed. For me its like comparing American. Muscle to a ricer. Add a set of pulleys to a 350 gain 25 hp add pulleys to a 1.6 ricer gain 5 hp. Takes twice as much to go fast. I LOVE SPEED. If I can go faster then I will try my best to do it. I'm not bashing at all. Just like the speed. If I ever get to where i want to be on winding I will try to get in more races. Just nothing around here for slots no tracks or many people doing it. If I ever get my track done I'm going to try to draw people in by doing some things with the schools and some fund raisers and things around here for some needy people. I'm open to suggestions from all of you guys and gals on how to get some local racing started and thing to get people interested.
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Post by dave632 on Mar 30, 2015 14:03:09 GMT -7
Peter, If there is any class that is easy to enter it is the bracket class.
Unfortunately there was only one this year and it has passed without that
much interest. It is also the class that needs special equipment to run you have
to have a TrakMate or similar system to do it. I also agree the racers seem to be dwindling.
I am like Lewis I like to push the limits but that can also be a problem when
it comes to equipment needed to do that. My track is near its limit now with stopping
distance.
I find it just as hard to get a stocker to run good as it is to get a modified to run.
The only difference is that a modified costs a bit more.
I have been going on other slot car sites trying to promote our races. I have gotten little
interest. Most of those guys worry more about how their wheel rims look than how fast
their cars are. Many of them think they are fast but are reluctant to find out where
they stand and most likely about 99.9 out of a 100 of them will fall short. One guy, of the few responses I got, thought he needed the full 1/4 for his cars since they came on at the top end. I laughed to myself wondering what he was comparing to, probably some 10 mph stockers.
It takes time money and work to get these cars running at top levels and that goes for
all classes.
I too would like to get some local racing started but I have not figured out how to do that.
Lewis if you come up with some idea let me know.
Even the core race group here seems to be dwindling.
Lewis, I agree with you 100% when it comes to the domestic cars the old SB, BB, Chevy, Ford
and Dodge cars are much cheaper and easier to get performance out of. Trying to get a ricer drag
car to move quickly when the weight transfer is going away from front driving wheels is not
the way to go. They also sound like a Whale with a gas problem. I do not like them in any way.
I thought it was funny when one of those ricers tried to get on that Street Outlaw show. I think
he lost by half the track to the last place car. |
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Post by pceng on Mar 30, 2015 15:10:06 GMT -7
I understand everything you guy's have said....... Imo, the stock classes pancake or inline are the hardest classes to be competitive in. Especially for someone new. I look at them as he with the most parts wins or should. BUT these classes are easiest to promote entry. Sort of a catch 22.
We have had people here that felt if they purchased a given car (stock). That they then could compete in races for that given chassis. Maybe the lesson was finally learned that entering a race & being competitive are two different things. I've seen nothing from those I'm thinking of for 2 yrs. Have seen the same people elsewhere telling the world how great their cars are.
I to have.no way of running the cars except for proxy racing. I am grateful for having found this site and being able to take part in NTRA events. Turnouts this year have seem to be off......... I think & hope this does change. It has in the past. Just after a low point a few years ago. The program came back stronger than ever. I hope this year might just be a dip in the graph.
............ Peter
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Post by dave632 on Mar 30, 2015 19:12:06 GMT -7
Peter I am in the same boat. The only way I can race is on this site. I have enough of my own cars that I could hold a race that took 2 days to run but I want the challenge of running against others.
This is why I think we need more bracket races. All you need is a consistent car. In the bracket race I held the quickest and slowest car made the final and a double breakout decided the winner.
One of my stock cars came in 2nd in the last race. On my track it was the slowest one that me and my son sent, I did little to it except put tires and new brushes in it as I did to all of the stockers. Now in the modified class me and my son put a lot of time and testing in. The car that my son sent in that qualified 2nd was the slowest on my track. The fastest one was running well into the .7s much faster than any car entered and it did nothing. I have no clue. The next race I am really looking forward to since Alans track is similar to mine and the results should be similar.
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