Post by FlatBlackCamaro on May 24, 2015 16:12:07 GMT -7
Hey Fellas!
I aint dead yet, just been busy with the car. However ive been rained out, dont know if any one has heard but oklahoma has gotten like 3' of rain lol.
I worked on Phantoms 70s camaro since i was frustrated on my own and cant do any testing.
Feel free to chime in, ive done everything under the sun and havnt figured it out so far.
Temps changed after shelling the third th350 this year, i tried two stockers and then a " home built " th350 by a shop here in town... it lasted all of just 5 passes, 800$ out the window. So i got fed up with throwing money at the problem and bought TCI's Super Streetfighter, matched TQconverter and to keep the warranty i had to also buy their cooler which i felt was a gimmick.
I also noticed my water pump was weeping so i bought a new one, Weiand Action Plus i believe the PN is 9240P. I run a gilmer style belt, and the crank and wp pulley are 1:1 its not under driven.
Things ive tested or tried:
Used a block tester to see if exhaust gasses were entering my radiator, fluid stayed green never turned yellow. So atleast blown head gaskets or the worse... cracked block is out of the worry.
Double checked block angle, i know a upward angle can result in high temps and the block is level and solid mounted.
Checked the T-stat ( Failsafe type ) the kind that are suppose to lock open, this one wouldnt open even in temps nearing 300*. When i found this i figured i had found my problem, i removed it and tested the car, after 3 miles the car was 210* and climbing to 230*.
The radiator cap is higher than the radiator hose and the T-stat housing, so no trapped air there.
I know that a retarded ignition timing will also cause heat and this is not the case, i run a 7AL and the distributor at 0*. The 7AL retards the timing during start ups but while running goes back to 0*.
Im running an all alluminum 4 core radiator with dual 15" electric puller fans.
Maybe its running lean? Not this car, ive got it running a little rich actually for when i use the 250 shot of nitrous. So thats also Out.
Things ive changed but havnt yet tested:
I installed a 5/8ths coolant restrictor, it was the smallest i could go and my reason for this is i believe the coolant isnt setting in the radiator long enough to let it cool.
I also installed a 20PSI radiator cap, the stock radiator cap that came with the radiator was a 16PSI, the reason i changed this was to increase my boiling point hoping that it will help move the coolant vs making bubbles and gas.
The problem: before the latest changes...
I could leave the pit area, and wait in line ( half the time i would sit with the car off unless the line was moving fairly fast ) but by the time i made it to the line shes sitting at 100* or more depending. After a pass well into 200* i grab my ticket and pull in and shut down to let it cool, now i could do this all day BUT i want to drive this car on the street.
Lately ive been cruise testing the car, with the T-stat removed and new trans with trans cooler and new waterpump i made it about 5 miles before it got 210 reaching 230...
What ive found is as the car sits, weather its under strain ( in gear or not ) it will stay cool, once i get going down the road it starts progressivly getting hotter until it boils over. Once it gets hot i just pull over and leave it running, slowly it will get back to 180-190 and i drive it again.
So am i on the right path here? Any thoughts?
I set the car in the garage in drive chalked and with the parking break pulled, i let it run 30 minutes and it never reached 150 after installing the 5/8 restrictor and new 20 PSI cap... has anything changed? Im not sure... i never did this test prior. The only real test would be to drive it, but unfortunately this car doesnt float and its flooded outside lol.
- Flat
I aint dead yet, just been busy with the car. However ive been rained out, dont know if any one has heard but oklahoma has gotten like 3' of rain lol.
I worked on Phantoms 70s camaro since i was frustrated on my own and cant do any testing.
Feel free to chime in, ive done everything under the sun and havnt figured it out so far.
Temps changed after shelling the third th350 this year, i tried two stockers and then a " home built " th350 by a shop here in town... it lasted all of just 5 passes, 800$ out the window. So i got fed up with throwing money at the problem and bought TCI's Super Streetfighter, matched TQconverter and to keep the warranty i had to also buy their cooler which i felt was a gimmick.
I also noticed my water pump was weeping so i bought a new one, Weiand Action Plus i believe the PN is 9240P. I run a gilmer style belt, and the crank and wp pulley are 1:1 its not under driven.
Things ive tested or tried:
Used a block tester to see if exhaust gasses were entering my radiator, fluid stayed green never turned yellow. So atleast blown head gaskets or the worse... cracked block is out of the worry.
Double checked block angle, i know a upward angle can result in high temps and the block is level and solid mounted.
Checked the T-stat ( Failsafe type ) the kind that are suppose to lock open, this one wouldnt open even in temps nearing 300*. When i found this i figured i had found my problem, i removed it and tested the car, after 3 miles the car was 210* and climbing to 230*.
The radiator cap is higher than the radiator hose and the T-stat housing, so no trapped air there.
I know that a retarded ignition timing will also cause heat and this is not the case, i run a 7AL and the distributor at 0*. The 7AL retards the timing during start ups but while running goes back to 0*.
Im running an all alluminum 4 core radiator with dual 15" electric puller fans.
Maybe its running lean? Not this car, ive got it running a little rich actually for when i use the 250 shot of nitrous. So thats also Out.
Things ive changed but havnt yet tested:
I installed a 5/8ths coolant restrictor, it was the smallest i could go and my reason for this is i believe the coolant isnt setting in the radiator long enough to let it cool.
I also installed a 20PSI radiator cap, the stock radiator cap that came with the radiator was a 16PSI, the reason i changed this was to increase my boiling point hoping that it will help move the coolant vs making bubbles and gas.
The problem: before the latest changes...
I could leave the pit area, and wait in line ( half the time i would sit with the car off unless the line was moving fairly fast ) but by the time i made it to the line shes sitting at 100* or more depending. After a pass well into 200* i grab my ticket and pull in and shut down to let it cool, now i could do this all day BUT i want to drive this car on the street.
Lately ive been cruise testing the car, with the T-stat removed and new trans with trans cooler and new waterpump i made it about 5 miles before it got 210 reaching 230...
What ive found is as the car sits, weather its under strain ( in gear or not ) it will stay cool, once i get going down the road it starts progressivly getting hotter until it boils over. Once it gets hot i just pull over and leave it running, slowly it will get back to 180-190 and i drive it again.
So am i on the right path here? Any thoughts?
I set the car in the garage in drive chalked and with the parking break pulled, i let it run 30 minutes and it never reached 150 after installing the 5/8 restrictor and new 20 PSI cap... has anything changed? Im not sure... i never did this test prior. The only real test would be to drive it, but unfortunately this car doesnt float and its flooded outside lol.
- Flat