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Post by SlotWerx on Jul 19, 2015 15:45:25 GMT -7
If you used testers enamel, then you need to let it gas out for at least a week prior to putting tape on them. Just like One Shot the silver and golds are the worst.
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Post by AJR on Jul 19, 2015 16:40:19 GMT -7
Cool save!!! I gave up on enamels a long time ago, just not worth it. I try to stick with lacquers. I'd also suggest the Duplicolor High Build primer. I'm like Sam, I like to add a coat or two of clear over the base color, then if you get a little (of your second color overspary) on the first color, you can lightly sand it off. Also like to add a coat of clear before applying decals. After the clear dries, you can scuff/sand the clear with some 2000, then apply your decals, then topcoat again with clear. Seems to let the decals lay down better...RM More great tips! Thank you Randy. You, Sam, and Eagle have given me some great tips here and there over the last couple of years. It is appreciated. I think this is where I toss the rest of my enamels. I will try the primer as well. I have been trying different one's looking for something I'm happy with. Thanks again for sharing.  |
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Post by SlotWerx on Jul 19, 2015 18:57:45 GMT -7
Also to those still using enamels, you can use a food dehydrator to speed the process (not your wives or moms). Back in my model building days we would use them to gas out the paint faster so we could polish them out. 24 hours in the dehydrator is about a week in natural air out time it seemed.
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Post by hairycanary on Jul 19, 2015 22:06:12 GMT -7
Jeff awesome job on the Galaxy ! Thanks for the tips on how things don't go so good. I could write a book on that. I don't know how many times I have had to strip a car because I screwed up. But I'm like the others a quit using enamel unless I have to. Lacquers spray easier and I think are more forgivable. I too will clear coat between colors. I use the 2 part automotive clear it's expensive but that stuff is bullet proff. When I goof up on detail or over spay you can clean it up with lacquer thinner paint thinner and won't hurt the clear if your carefull. And the decals come off easier too. Keep up the awesome work. And on most resin bodies I just use lacquer thinner and a Q tip and tooth brush to remove the paint and if your carfull on plastic bodies too. I found some stuff on eBay that takes the paint off the plastic body's that works great. Blue magic paint stripper
Rick
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Post by AJR on Jul 20, 2015 4:55:30 GMT -7
Thanks again guys. Awesome feedback! Rick good to hear from you and those are great tips. Good tips going in the notebook. I'm lining up another project now that I am going to try some of these new techniques.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Jul 20, 2015 5:23:35 GMT -7
Awesome!!! This is a sweet project/write up Jeff. I went back through it and man that body was rough. Very nice article all the way around with solid pics, nice job.
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Post by AJR on Jul 20, 2015 8:13:42 GMT -7
Also to those still using enamels, you can use a food dehydrator to speed the process (not your wives or moms). Back in my model building days we would use them to gas out the paint faster so we could polish them out. 24 hours in the dehydrator is about a week in natural air out time it seemed. Matt thank you as well for your pointers on the enamels. I used Model Master silver on this one and it did have plenty of drying time. I think the paint might be starting to get old. Haven't had this problem in the past. I've decided to purge all of my enamels....at least for airbrushing. I will go ahead and use them for detailing as long as that holds up. |
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Post by hilltopspeedway on Jul 20, 2015 8:34:02 GMT -7
Another method I use: If I'm painting a "resin body" and the paint screws up for whatever reason, I'll take the body if it's secured to the paint stand, and imediately swish it back and forth in tub of lacquer thinner to remove all the paint. As soon as the paint is gone, dunk it under some water to kill the solvent reaction, then blow the water off and let it sit a bit to dry out before "touching" the body, after it dries, then re prime. Resin will soften under stripper or lacquer thinner, so you need to keep an eye on it. For normal plastic bodies, use your favorite plastic stipper. I use Scalecoat ll for plastic...As with anything, opinions will vary, be your own judge...RM
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