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Post by gibbo61 on Jun 21, 2019 3:26:28 GMT -7
I have determined that I am "soldering challenged" , good thing I have many t-jet pikups to work on that with
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2019 6:27:23 GMT -7
yep .... used pickups are great to practice on. make sure your surfaces are clean and tin both parts, then a small amount of flux and heat should make a good bond. I am sure this all has been covered in detail, just adding my two "sense"
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Post by dave632 on Jun 21, 2019 13:49:29 GMT -7
It is worth it to learn how. The performance difference when braid is added to some cars is amazing.
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Post by gibbo61 on Jul 28, 2019 5:36:20 GMT -7
My first attempt at braids has been a very "interesting" event to say the least. As my soldering skill is poor at best lol. thank you guys for 2 very helpful and easy to understand tutorials
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Post by AJR on Jul 28, 2019 6:11:32 GMT -7
My first attempt at braids has been a very "interesting" event to say the least. As my soldering skill is poor at best lol. thank you guys for 2 very helpful and easy to understand tutorials Keep practicing and it will get easier. Just remember everything needs to be really clean. Tinning flux makes it waaaay easier, but everything still has to be clean. The solder will not stick otherwise.
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Post by gibbo61 on Apr 13, 2020 12:32:48 GMT -7
My braid work is getting better , but still ugly
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2020 17:15:33 GMT -7
the tutorials are very good and the pics help explain a lot. as has been said, practice makes perfect. once you have the shoe cleaned and tinned, you only need a tiny amount of solder to affix the braid. when tinning the shoe, you want just a very thin coat on. remember that the braid is designed to draw solder. that's why it is "de-soldering" braid. it even has a little flux in it. so when you apply heat to the braid it is going to want to draw solder off the shoe anyway. so only a very little solder needs be on the tip of the iron.
I prefer "chisel tip" soldering tips which has a nice flat surface om which to melt a little solder and is broad enough to distribute the heat across the whole of the end of the braid at the same time.
practice. the best part about braiding pick up shoes is that you can use the rattiest, beat up, worn down shoes and they will be great again.
keep at it. it gets better.
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Post by GTS on Apr 13, 2020 17:49:32 GMT -7
What Al said! I've soldered a couple pair that have looked similar to that . What I had to do to make them so they would increase the performance was file the solder flat on the bottom of the shoe so the braid was contacting the rail and not riding on just the solder, ymmv. Also, I took a small file and filed the solder out of the hole in the front of the shoe so as the shoe had it's full range of movement. Once again, ymmv. And yes, it was kinda' tedious having to do that but the next pair I did were a lot better .
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Post by dave632 on Apr 15, 2020 14:44:17 GMT -7
Al's point is good. I forgot to mention that I only put a tiny amount of solder at the very front of the shoe and just enough to the braid to make it stick to the shoe.
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Post by pete on Dec 7, 2020 16:31:47 GMT -7
Sam check this topic out.
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Post by andrewsfc on Dec 7, 2020 19:38:02 GMT -7
So glad i came across this topic. Was just chatting with a group of racers in Ne about braiding.
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Post by skillet on Dec 7, 2020 21:55:31 GMT -7
You found it sweet This is extremely helpful. Anyone else have anything to add in here?
I've heard about little mustache in front any one use that method?
Do you ever have to put bigger front tires for the braid?
I'm just getting into this area as soon as I get some braid. Got my eye on the mailbox Eric.
Sam/Skillet
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Post by dave632 on Dec 8, 2020 14:47:45 GMT -7
Sam did you order the 3.5 all copper type. The goot wick ones I use have a green label on them. 3.5 braid
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2020 17:28:46 GMT -7
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Post by pete on Dec 8, 2020 19:02:51 GMT -7
I hooked Sam up with some 3.5. Thanks Al for the link.
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