Post by bondoman2k on Apr 10, 2008 19:00:58 GMT -7
Guys..
Just a quick tip for anyone that prints their own decals. Go to www.decalzone.com
At the top of the homepage is a spot to click to design your own decals. Thay have that there so you can design them and they can make them and SELL them to you...LOL. They are 'full size' 1 to 1 vinyl. HOWEVER...
You can design your own lettering there (MANY styles, colors and shading options) Then when it comes up, right click the image and save it in your 'puter. Then simply run it through Photoshop or a good graphics program to change sizes, 'tint or change the colors, or whatever. Then print it out on white or clear paper. REMEMBER.. you MUST clearcote the decal before you soak it or the ink will come off in the water. Clear it, wait about a half hour and apply it. If you clear it and wait (like printing it then clearcoating, but waiting til the NEXT day), it may actually 'crack' your decal or the clear can come off the paper in sheets, which would ruin ALL your hard work. Has happened to me before on diecasts. I use Deft satin finish clear for wood in a rattle can. Then after it's applied on the car, use a glossy clear of your choice, rattle can or airbrush. Even Future floor wax would work (but that's ANOTHER tip for later..LOL ;D) By the way..these tips are for 'hardbodies'. Not sure if these would work on lexan..might be able to reverse the image in photoshop on clear paper for the inside of the body. Never tried so I can't really say.
I have done this on larger scale stuff and used white paper, i cut it out REAL close to the lettering. I put over black, and found out that if I used 2 decals (one laid over the other) it actually showed less of the black through the paper. Some brands of paper are actually VERY transparent, even though they are white.
Hope this helps some of you guys. There are other ways to make and use decals using an inkjet printer, but some are pretty complicated..lol.
I figured THIS tip is probly the 'easiest' to start with for now. ;D
Ron (Bondo)
Just a quick tip for anyone that prints their own decals. Go to www.decalzone.com
At the top of the homepage is a spot to click to design your own decals. Thay have that there so you can design them and they can make them and SELL them to you...LOL. They are 'full size' 1 to 1 vinyl. HOWEVER...
You can design your own lettering there (MANY styles, colors and shading options) Then when it comes up, right click the image and save it in your 'puter. Then simply run it through Photoshop or a good graphics program to change sizes, 'tint or change the colors, or whatever. Then print it out on white or clear paper. REMEMBER.. you MUST clearcote the decal before you soak it or the ink will come off in the water. Clear it, wait about a half hour and apply it. If you clear it and wait (like printing it then clearcoating, but waiting til the NEXT day), it may actually 'crack' your decal or the clear can come off the paper in sheets, which would ruin ALL your hard work. Has happened to me before on diecasts. I use Deft satin finish clear for wood in a rattle can. Then after it's applied on the car, use a glossy clear of your choice, rattle can or airbrush. Even Future floor wax would work (but that's ANOTHER tip for later..LOL ;D) By the way..these tips are for 'hardbodies'. Not sure if these would work on lexan..might be able to reverse the image in photoshop on clear paper for the inside of the body. Never tried so I can't really say.
I have done this on larger scale stuff and used white paper, i cut it out REAL close to the lettering. I put over black, and found out that if I used 2 decals (one laid over the other) it actually showed less of the black through the paper. Some brands of paper are actually VERY transparent, even though they are white.
Hope this helps some of you guys. There are other ways to make and use decals using an inkjet printer, but some are pretty complicated..lol.
I figured THIS tip is probly the 'easiest' to start with for now. ;D
Ron (Bondo)