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Post by ecbill on Apr 9, 2018 15:55:23 GMT -7
Painting a resin body for the Smoky Mountain race and having mega fish eye problems. It started out ok but I messed up the graphics and sanded back down to plastic. Now the fish eyes start popping up. It was thoroughly cleaned and primed the 1st go around and everything went well.
Because of bad results with stripper on resin, none was used. Just wet sandpaper and dish soap. Tried priming again but still fish eyes.
Do you think sanding the resin may have released some silicone or mold release agent that was trapped under the surface?
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Post by AJR on Apr 10, 2018 3:15:26 GMT -7
Bill I have heard of that happening, but I have sanded some of my bodies and others extensively and have not experienced that issue. Could there be any kind of airborne contaminate that was introduced into the area you are painting. I just started using a 2 part automotive clear and have had fisheye problems with it. Like you, I have been very meticulous with my prep but the fisheyes still remain. I got around it by spraying a couple of light "sealer coats" before applying normally. It did not completely go away, but helped. I am still experimenting with some things. But in the past I used to spray my mold release in my hobby room. I don't anymore, but that could be part of my problem.....residual silicone. I also do not use mold release near as much as I used to. Baby powder is my alternative. That was recommended by my casting material supplier as well as wiping bodies down with alcohol. Very interested in how your issue turns out.
Back in the day I did autobody right out of High School. Armor All and ALL other silicone type sprays were not allowed anywhere close to the body shop because once airborn, they created all kinds of issues.
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Post by Eagle Racing on Apr 10, 2018 5:50:31 GMT -7
Skin oil can cause this also use care in handling the body.
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Post by gnome on Apr 10, 2018 6:37:25 GMT -7
Chew and cigarettes will get ya to
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Post by gnome on Apr 10, 2018 6:46:21 GMT -7
I had same problem painting car for dave's race ,did what jjwallace recommended several very light almost nothing coats .car came out really nice. I'm going to try Westley tire bleach on the next one before i do anything with it.
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Post by GTS on Apr 10, 2018 7:29:50 GMT -7
Don't know if this will work but I'll throw it out there. Back in the early 90's when I had my sign shop, I hand painted everything before switching to vinyl. Lotsa' clients would get there vehicle "detailed" before dropping it off to be lettered. They were pretty much coated with silicone. One Shot enamels would not adhere or behave properly. I used a product called "Rapid Prep" which removed all the silicone from the detailing process and allowed the surface to be lettered. This worked great for surfaces that were to be lettered with a brush but I never tried it using a spray application for the paint. Here in Spokane, none of the sign shop supply outfits carry it any more because it's not that big a deal with applying vinyl, so no demand for it. It is kinda expensive, by my definition, but you might try hittin' up a sign shop in your area (that still does hand lettering) to see if they'd sell ya an ounce or two. It is available on ebay and amazon.
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Post by ecbill on Apr 10, 2018 19:10:42 GMT -7
Lots of good ideas guys. Thanks for all of your responses! Guess I gotta stop putting armourall my slot cars tires. Before you start taking me too serious, I am just kidding.
Don't think there are any residual contaminants in the paint area but could have picked up something in the wash sink. Tend to have butter fingers lately. The Rapid Prep sounds like good stuff and it brought to mind some automotive paint prep products that I have leftover that might be worth a try. Cleaning with alcohol is worth a try as well.
Its amazing what kind of stuff can mess up a paint job. The BMW plant is nearby and I'm told that the workers in the paint prep shops are prohibited from wearing deodorant because it contaminates the paint surfaces.
Gave up chew and smoke years ago, though my garage was full of smoke almost a year ago. Wesley's Bleach White is an interesting idea. Have you had good results with it in the past?
Thanks again guys.
Bill
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Post by AJR on Apr 11, 2018 2:54:46 GMT -7
Lots of good ideas guys. Thanks for all of your responses! Guess I gotta stop putting armourall my slot cars tires. Before you start taking me too serious, I am just kidding. Don't think there are any residual contaminants in the paint area but could have picked up something in the wash sink. Tend to have butter fingers lately. The Rapid Prep sounds like good stuff and it brought to mind some automotive paint prep products that I have leftover that might be worth a try. Cleaning with alcohol is worth a try as well. Its amazing what kind of stuff can mess up a paint job. The BMW plant is nearby and I'm told that the workers in the paint prep shops are prohibited from wearing deodorant because it contaminates the paint surfaces. Gave up chew and smoke years ago, though my garage was full of smoke almost a year ago. Wesley's Bleach White is an interesting idea. Have you had good results with it in the past? Thanks again guys. Bill Bill I have been contacted by a 30+ year auto body guy that saw the posts here on this and he suggested using a window cleaner that comes in a can....preferably one with ammonia. He said the ones in the can tend to foam up when applied and that seemed to lift contaminates off the surface. Apply it to the body and wipe it off with a paper towel. He said this has worked for him almost everytime with fisheye issues. Something like Windex in a pump spray would also work. So it doesn't necessarily need to be in a can, he just liked the foaming action. I've put this one in my notes just in case I ever need to use it. |
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Post by gnome on Apr 11, 2018 3:55:54 GMT -7
Haven't tried the tire bleach yet hopefully bodies show up today,the man i got the body's from recommended it.
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Post by ecbill on Apr 11, 2018 17:23:53 GMT -7
Hey guys, your suggestions lead me down a train of though that helped figure out the most likely cause of the fish eyes. After cleaning and rinsing the body, I dried it off with compressed air. My compressor is not an oil less model. It probably misted a little oil on the body and every time I cleaned it off.....
In the future I should probably run the air through the toilet paper filter that's hooked up to the blast cabinet.
Thanks guys!
Bill
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Post by ncdragracer on Apr 11, 2018 20:20:01 GMT -7
Hey guys, your suggestions lead me down a train of though that helped figure out the most likely cause of the fish eyes. After cleaning and rinsing the body, I dried it off with compressed air. My compressor is not an oil less model. It probably misted a little oil on the body and every time I cleaned it off..... In the future I should probably run the air through the toilet paper filter that's hooked up to the blast cabinet. Thanks guys! Bill Bill, When drying parts pieces and body"s try using "Canned Air" can be found at office supply stores, and can also be found at wally world. |
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Post by hilltopspeedway on Apr 12, 2018 11:16:09 GMT -7
Might try a hair dryer on cool...just use it for drying...as long as there are no contaminants in the air...RM
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