I never said a 0.182 was slow. Just said there are faster times out there. Geary's runs were made at 17 1/2 feet and at 27v. If he stretched it out to 20 1/2', his times might be higher yes, but so would his speeds. As for the correct size 1/4 mile, show me an HO that is correctly scaled. Track lengths will vary just as car dimensions vary. Disputes about scale are nothing new and will continue on long after we are gone. I for one am a battery only proponent but have and will race on PS powered tracks. I also believe voltages should be a standard when comparing times, 12, 18, and 24. I will be running batteries, 3 6v golf cart batteries. I also believe lexan bodies should be allowed in classes that are patterned after real classes where fiberglass, kevlar, carbon fiber, and other weight saving materials are allowed. However, these are just toy cars, nobody is making a living racing them nor are there fistfuls of contingency money to be won, so I just get out there and try to do the best I can with what I have, and have fun. If someone wants "Big Dog" bragging rights about who's cars are faster , the best way to settle it is the way it has always been done in drag racing, go heads up! The winner can take the title along with $7 and get ya a Grand Slam at Denny's!
cozee, I am in no way trying to diminish Steve's accomplishments.
Slugger has designed one heck of a set up and Steve continues to improve on it.
I respect what ever length of track one wants to run on and I respect the restrictions some folks place on their track in/on premises.
I am also not trying to set a bar as to what scale anyone should consider HO.
technically HO stands for Half O gauge, which works out to be 1/87 scale.
I simply state that I run 1/64 scale tracks because since Aurora AFX and TYCO TYCO-PRO were introduced, cars have been much closer to 1/64 in scale than 1/87.
in fact there have only ever been a couple true HO 1/87 tracks and cars built, ever.
again, I am not diminishing anyone's desire to do what they want to do.
I just like to be up front about what my dimensions are so that all can consider what the numbers mean.
I used to use diesel batteries for my 1/24 scale tracks and two 12 volt batteries in sequence, which produces 24 volts and lots of amperage, for my 1/64 scale tracks.
but, the establishments I rent to run live racing in do not allow batteries and I don't like having them IN my HOUSE.
if I had an out building of some sort I would certainly be using wet cell 990 CCA batteries because that is pure DC and the pick up shoes don't get dirty running on that current.
also, Power Supplies allows easy switching of voltages for the various classes run via NITRO rules.
my live races run everything at 24 volts.
wet cell batteries can be regulated with Potentiometers if desired, so that is a solution to turn down the "volume" if desired.
basically, my 0.182 run at Solanco Dragway in Paradise PA under Steve Geary's supervision, which was only a record for a few days until Steve could get home and build a new car, was encouraging to me because I used my knowledge of electrics and tire dimensions to outwit the guru.
understand, my first pass in qualifying was only third fastest for that National Event and my car was disintegrating the whole way down the track. basically a blur ball of fire because the commutator failed and took out most of the electrics in the car.
I was give a reasonable amount of time to rebuild the car, and Yes, I always have spare parts that fit the build requirements when I compete at such levels, ran the car on a power supply to insure it would go forward (no actual break in time), did my little magic and pulled out that 0.182 which was backed up within 1%, but not a faster run, during eliminations.
I was eliminated early in the event because I couldn't get used to the delay boxes these guys use instead of straight reacting to the tree. I had a bad light and my competitor had an excellent light.
the car didn't fail, I DID!
LOL
