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Post by ecbill on May 23, 2019 14:29:45 GMT -7
Speaking of Henry Js. While watching gasser videos, I see lots of Henry Js but have never seen a single one on the street. Did Sombody stash them all way and only allow drag racers to have them? Curious about this.
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Post by jjwallace on May 23, 2019 15:28:58 GMT -7
Pete there are a lot of good tuners active on the site right now that are willing to give any pointers needed. I will help anyway I can. I will be running my normal September race and do not have any classes set at this time. I will make a point of running at least one inline class and will post the question to get opinions on exactly what class(es) that will run. So something to look forward to maybe. As Bill said there is a wealth of tuning info on the site. I recently posted a basic 4 gear base setup on my Bear Creek Dragway thread nitroslots.com/thread/2917/bear-creek-dragway-north-texas?page=56. That should get you to a tunable point with any of the pancake chassis, not just the 4 gear. The 4 gear is popular due to the customizable resin bodies that are available, but it is not the best platform for performance. They can still be plenty fast. We like to see customizing here. I choose the classes I run based on popularity and customizing. I hope you will give it a try. Be sure to check out the "Tech tips" thread towards the bottom of the main forum page. |
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Post by pete on May 23, 2019 15:46:10 GMT -7
Cool JJ. I will, as Gale said I have some time. I'll think about.
My first goal should be getting up and running with the track. I have moved the room around and renovated the framing on a removed closet. Once I finish the sofit and sheet rock I will set the track in place. Have a parts list for the gantry thanks to your help JJ and its go time. I also need to get the media end set up.
Im pretty sure once this all happens I will be trying all kinds of new to me idea's.
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Post by jjwallace on May 23, 2019 16:10:30 GMT -7
Speaking of Henry Js. While watching gasser videos, I see lots of Henry Js but have never seen a single one on the street. Did Sombody stash them all way and only allow drag racers to have them? Curious about this. Man there are a lot of nice Gassers, but I think my favorites are the Henry J and the Topolino. Never saw one I didn't like  . |
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2019 18:21:45 GMT -7
open invitation to all,
not trying to highjack this thread, but add to it.
I have original parts for all Aurora chassis and I am willing to sell parts at reasonable prices.
I know folks don't like taking chances buying on ebay, so I offer this alternative.
PM me wish list and we will negotiate.
if this post is inappropriate please feel free to delete it Jeff.
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Post by jjwallace on May 23, 2019 19:34:37 GMT -7
open invitation to all, not trying to highjack this thread, but add to it. I have original parts for all Aurora chassis and I am willing to sell parts at reasonable prices. I know folks don't like taking chances buying on ebay, so I offer this alternative. PM me wish list and we will negotiate. if this post is inappropriate please feel free to delete it Jeff. To the contrary Al.........I appreciate the generosity as does everyone else I'm sure. Thank you. |
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Post by pete on May 29, 2019 17:50:15 GMT -7
Raceway Park took one step closer. Two Mastech HY3010D supplies on the way.  |
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Post by dave632 on May 30, 2019 7:41:55 GMT -7
Good to hear Pete. Sounds like your track is on its way soon.
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Post by jjwallace on May 30, 2019 16:33:17 GMT -7
That's awesome Pete! You won't be disappointed with those. Keep us updated on the progress.
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Post by nosubfor3 on Mar 22, 2020 14:57:04 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2020 15:18:44 GMT -7
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Post by jjwallace on Mar 22, 2020 15:35:49 GMT -7
I tend to agree with Al's first statement......You are going to want 10amps minimum. The amperage....especially with the pancakes...is going to help get the cars moving faster from a dead stop. 5 amps will run Stock builds ok, but even with the Stockers you will still see a pretty big difference between 5amps and 10amps. I started with one 10amp supply for both lanes and saw how much difference there was in ET's with one car running down the track versus two. That's when I made the switch to a 10 amp power supply for each lane. A 5amp supply for both lanes just isn't enough. |
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Post by GTS on Mar 22, 2020 17:22:40 GMT -7
I've been very happy with the 2 - 30v/10a supplies that I purchased less than a year ago. They seem to have increased in price a good bit since then  . I think the ones that alpink linked would be worth considering. I did a lot of research and watched a lot of videos on these type of power supplies and one thing I did retain that a lot of the electronics techs said was that the biggest reason these sometimes get a bad rap was that a lot of people turn them on when something that uses electricity is already hooked up to them. That appears to be hard on the circuitry, so they claim. So, I'm always careful not to power mine up if there's a car on the track with controller on. I wait until the supplies are on for 15 or 20 seconds before I ever put a car on the track, ymmv. A couple months after buying those 2 - 30v/10a ones, I purchased a 30v/5a to run with my dyno. I probably use it more than the track supplies, it also has performed flawlessly.
I can sympathize with the decision you're going to make, I was very hesitant at the time but have been fortunate to be problem free with my purchase. I have no "hands on" facts to back it up but I tend to agree with alpink & Jeff's advice on going with a minimum of 10 amps. Please keep us posted on what transpires.
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Post by dave632 on Mar 24, 2020 14:32:41 GMT -7
Your track is looking great Gale and should be an inspiration to all new members and even us old guys.
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Post by dave632 on Mar 24, 2020 14:37:04 GMT -7
I've been very happy with the 2 - 30v/10a supplies that I purchased less than a year ago. They seem to have increased in price a good bit since then . I think the ones that alpink linked would be worth considering. I did a lot of research and watched a lot of videos on these type of power supplies and one thing I did retain that a lot of the electronics techs said was that the biggest reason these sometimes get a bad rap was that a lot of people turn them on when something that uses electricity is already hooked up to them. That appears to be hard on the circuitry, so they claim. So, I'm always careful not to power mine up if there's a car on the track with controller on. I wait until the supplies are on for 15 or 20 seconds before I ever put a car on the track, ymmv. A couple months after buying those 2 - 30v/10a ones, I purchased a 30v/5a to run with my dyno. I probably use it more than the track supplies, it also has performed flawlessly.
I can sympathize with the decision you're going to make, I was very hesitant at the time but have been fortunate to be problem free with my purchase. I have no "hands on" facts to back it up but I tend to agree with alpink & Jeff's advice on going with a minimum of 10 amps. Please keep us posted on what transpires.
This is exactly what I found. The extra amperage gets the cars moving quicker and therefore the ETs are generally better. MPH does not seem to change much unless you are running an unlimited, there I have seen up to a 10 MPH improvement but with a 6 ohm arm almost none. |
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. I think the ones that alpink linked would be worth considering. I did a lot of research and watched a lot of videos on these type of power supplies and one thing I did retain that a lot of the electronics techs said was that the biggest reason these sometimes get a bad rap was that a lot of people turn them on when something that uses electricity is already hooked up to them. That appears to be hard on the circuitry, so they claim. So, I'm always careful not to power mine up if there's a car on the track with controller on. I wait until the supplies are on for 15 or 20 seconds before I ever put a car on the track, ymmv.