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Post by AJR on Aug 14, 2021 16:34:17 GMT -7
There is a diagram on Page 1 of this thread that shows one way of doing it. My power supplies are bigger in size but are basically the same unit and they have worked flawlessly since 2013. They are also in my garage which is unconditioned. Very durable units for the most part. They are probably all made at the same factory and everybody just puts their name on it. Mine are identical but have different names on them. I would not get anything less than 30v/10a and I recommend biting the bullet and putting a power supply on each lane. It just solves several problems doing that. I am looking to upgrade to 20a supplies after this season. Anyway.......my two cents for what it's worth. Saw that diagram when I first jumped on this thread. I am sure for most it is easy to understand, but my brain isn't wired that way.  I had a couple of thingytails and I realized it didn't help. Plenty of help here when you get to that point. Just ask . |
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Post by lasthobbypromise on Aug 15, 2021 15:39:07 GMT -7
I'll draw a diagram later tonight for you. The easiest way to get started with the terminal track, you can cut your power pack off and use the wire straight to your power supply. One wire to negative one to positive and your ready to go. Brake wire would depend on controllers. If they have a Brake wire. Controllers with 3 wires. Brakes is what starts making things confusing for alot of people. Ok so a diagram showing hook up to the track w/the switch that would allow use of hand controller and then be able to launch both cars at the same time. Does that sound right? |
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Post by skillet on Aug 15, 2021 19:00:21 GMT -7
Sounds good to me. I'll draw it up.
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Post by GTS on Aug 15, 2021 19:59:26 GMT -7
?-1: They both are working as they should. ?-2: IMHO, 30 variable vdc should be adequate for any "NitroSlots" type racing. The amperage depends on your budget and needs. ?-3: "not complicated" is kind of a relative term and would depend on knowledge already acquired. Hopefully Skillet can get you hooked up with a diagram that will fill your needs .
I've never seen an AW drag strip up close (just pictures), so am unfamiliar with how they do their plug in hook ups. I know the race course type terminal tracks have large pieces of brass underneath that have always been easy to solder to. Just soldering to regular track has its challenges but can be done. There are lots of instructional videos and written instruction available for said procedure. I googled the phrase "slot car electrical hook up" and got quite a few hits and a few videos. The videos seemed to deal with using various bits of hardware for connections.
Congratulations on the acquisition of your new power supply, I'm sure you're gonna love it!
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Post by skillet on Aug 15, 2021 23:01:12 GMT -7
Ok here's what I came up with for you Steve. Using the autoworld starting line it looks like they use the ground wire to work the controllers and that just complicates things.  |
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Post by skillet on Aug 15, 2021 23:08:07 GMT -7
To keep everything easy... Let's start with power.  Cut the power pack off. Leave a little wire on the power pack incase you want to wire it back up for something later.  The wire with white writing should be your negative...Put a fuse in-between your positive terminal and the positive wire. I have a 7.5 amp fuse.  |
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Post by skillet on Aug 15, 2021 23:16:43 GMT -7
To make your toggle switch using the autoworld starting line, I think it would be easiest if you have 2 extra controller ends to plug in.  Then you can wire the toggle in place of the controllers. I put mine so the white wire on the controllers are the same as you had pictured  white to white black to black( left side plug wire to left side plug wire, right to right)Toggle switch in-between.  |
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Post by skillet on Aug 15, 2021 23:21:22 GMT -7
If you don't have extra controller ends pm me your address and I'll just wire up a switch for you with ends to plug in on it ready to go. I could put 3 or 4' of wire so its controller length.
Then you have the option of using your controllers or the switch.
Let me know Sam/Skillet
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Post by AJR on Aug 16, 2021 7:00:55 GMT -7
If you don't have extra controller ends pm me your address and I'll just wire up a switch for you with ends to plug in on it ready to go. I could put 3 or 4' of wire so its controller length. Then you have the option of using your controllers or the switch. Let me know Sam/Skillet Awesome job brother!  |
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Post by lasthobbypromise on Aug 16, 2021 14:39:18 GMT -7
If you don't have extra controller ends pm me your address and I'll just wire up a switch for you with ends to plug in on it ready to go. I could put 3 or 4' of wire so its controller length. Then you have the option of using your controllers or the switch. Let me know Sam/Skillet Sam! Awesome, super easy to follow!!! Thank You! I need to buy you a drink (or two!) I will take you up on your offer. I will PM you w/my address. Also give me your email so I can Paypal you some coffee money. Steve |
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Post by skillet on Aug 16, 2021 20:22:17 GMT -7
Here it is...The test tube drag switch :-) Fits my hand comfortably, should do the trick. I marked the tops of the plugs black.    |
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Post by dave632 on Aug 17, 2021 7:14:38 GMT -7
Power supply amperage depends on what you are running and if you want to be quicker/faster. 2 10 amp power supplies are adequate for almost anything we race here at Nitro. I have 2 30 amp supplies because I was looking to go faster with my Unlimiteds. Those use sub 1 ohm armatures and they draw a lot more current, especially at the start. I picked up almost 10 MPH with the Unlimiteds when I switched to 2 30 amp supplies. I also use 30 amp relays to take the load off the start switch. I also have a switch to go from simultaneous start to individual. I drew up a schematic for this setup but I don't know what I did with it.
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Post by lasthobbypromise on Aug 17, 2021 9:25:43 GMT -7
Power supply amperage depends on what you are running and if you want to be quicker/faster. 2 10 amp power supplies are adequate for almost anything we race here at Nitro. I have 2 30 amp supplies because I was looking to go faster with my Unlimiteds. Those use sub 1 ohm armatures and they draw a lot more current, especially at the start. I picked up almost 10 MPH with the Unlimiteds when I switched to 2 30 amp supplies. I also use 30 amp relays to take the load off the start switch. I also have a switch to go from simultaneous start to individual. I drew up a schematic for this setup but I don't know what I did with it.If you ever find that I be curious as to what it looks like. |
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Post by lasthobbypromise on Aug 17, 2021 9:26:53 GMT -7
Here it is...The test tube drag switch :-) Fits my hand comfortably, should do the trick. I marked the tops of the plugs black. That is super nice!!!! |
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Post by dave632 on Aug 17, 2021 12:47:13 GMT -7
I will have to sit down and draw another one up as it's been awhile since I built this track.
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I had a couple of thingytails and I realized it didn't help.
