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Post by dave632 on May 8, 2020 13:29:41 GMT -7
Dave, sign me up for 1 stock and 1 superstock. I will finish them up over the weekend and get them off on the mail monday. Curently i have no timing system and i am a lone wolf in this area, so i have no way of judgeing my cars performance. In stock and ss what aprox rollout is used. Gear ratio and tire dia. Thanks Michael Welcome to the race DymoMike and good luck in the event. No rollout, cars are both started simultaneously just before the start beam. Max tire size is .500 for stock and SS, gears are your choice in either as I don't want to be counting teeth on a crown gear. I would suggest an 8 tooth pinion and 20-22 crown. |
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Post by dave632 on May 8, 2020 13:43:32 GMT -7
Looking for some help.haven't been doing so well getting cars put together for the race .i built a super g+ and a tyco 440 for the unlimited class but don't think either are going to make it, the tyco wont get out of its own way .600s in the eighth 1ohm bsrt t32 with level 35 neodymium and the supper g+ ran fair on polys .330s but had started to fall off a little over half dozen runs when my level 42 pro lightweight neodymiums showed up i installed them and got 4 more passes. The first pass produced a shooting star,went down hill fast from there. The arm is one i wound ,i used a stock supper g+ arm and comm. Wound it with 40 wraps of 30 wire glued the snot out of the winding but didn't touch the comm. My feeling is the copper pedals were lifting off the plastic and chewed the brushes and then began to ark any input is greatly appreciated im really struggling with these inlines thanks gnome Gnome, sorry to hear that. You are on the right track but stock armature blanks will not hold up under the current that the unlimiteds use. The plates will lift off of the comm base just as you describe. The rest of your build sounds good. You will have to see if you can get an arm from BSRT. The commutator is much better than any stock factory arm and that is where the difference is. Low ohm Spinner or Titan arms is what you need. Don't feel bad, I tried to build a .3 ohm Unlimited arm out of a stock SG+ and I did not get even one pass before pooooffff. I have had some 60+ mph G3s last for over 100 passes @ 20 volts but I did recently have one go bad. |
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Post by dave632 on May 8, 2020 13:47:24 GMT -7
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Post by GTS on May 8, 2020 14:58:46 GMT -7
Looking for some help.haven't been doing so well getting cars put together for the race .i built a super g+ and a tyco 440 for the unlimited class but don't think either are going to make it, the tyco wont get out of its own way .600s in the eighth 1ohm bsrt t32 with level 35 neodymium and the supper g+ ran fair on polys .330s but had started to fall off a little over half dozen runs when my level 42 pro lightweight neodymiums showed up i installed them and got 4 more passes. The first pass produced a shooting star,went down hill fast from there. The arm is one i wound ,i used a stock supper g+ arm and comm. Wound it with 40 wraps of 30 wire glued the snot out of the winding but didn't touch the comm. My feeling is the copper pedals were lifting off the plastic and chewed the brushes and then began to ark any input is greatly appreciated im really struggling with these inlines thanks gnome This is out of my league and you are probably aware of this availability gnome. HCSlots has a 1.5 ohm armature listed on this page. I have never used one but his other products are top of the line, IMHO. I have found him easy to talk to over the phone and his # is listed on his web site. He also stocks a 1.5 ohm for Tyco 440's on his web site, on a different page than the link I referenced above. Good luck!
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Post by GTS on May 8, 2020 15:09:27 GMT -7
Dave; trying to get my entries dialed in weight wise. From my understanding of the rules, they are as follows.
Stock & Super Stock = 21 grams 2.5 Pro Mod = 23 grams Unlimited = N/A Index = N/A PSO & 4GO = 25 grams
Could you please verify? Thanks!  |
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Post by pete on May 8, 2020 15:51:33 GMT -7
Dave, sign me up for 1 stock and 1 superstock. I will finish them up over the weekend and get them off on the mail monday. Curently i have no timing system and i am a lone wolf in this area, so i have no way of judgeing my cars performance. In stock and ss what aprox rollout is used. Gear ratio and tire dia. Thanks Michael Mike 8 20 821. Dave the rules state .476 stock, .500 Super stock? Mike tire size will depend on traction. Wheel hop on launch is what I look for. For stock, wheelie bars and front tire size help to dial in. Super stock allows for any traction magnet. You can run a strong traction magnet. Viper sells a half sized level ten traction magnet that is pretty sweet. Fits the Viper and G line and G plus. On a g plus you my need to notch them to shape them like a stock shape but not 100% sure about that. They will drop into the viper and g line np. You can also sand them to reduce the down force, keep that in mind. Play with your high and low settings of magnet orientation. Some cars need less down force and then you may have one that needs lots of down force, do that by flipping them. If you unsure what is high and low setting just ask. |
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Post by pete on May 8, 2020 16:14:44 GMT -7
Something for everyone to consider. When you run on Max track, Dave has a Max, you will need more shoe tension then you would on a AW or Tomy rail. My track has more of Tomy like rail, I would run about 4-6 grams tension for shoes. Max I will bump up to 6-8 grams. Car will work better on a max when you increase shoe tension. Something I do is turn the lights off doing a test pass. Why would you do that? you can see if the shoes are getting good contact. If its good there will be no arching, If the shoes are arching it will look like a sparkier is under there. Get the shoes flat and look for good connection. Take a Dry erase marker and paint the shoe bottom full, then just push the car on the track a few inches. You will see the contact patch, adjust the shoe till you get a full line down the shoe. Then start adding tension. Do this in this order. If you do it in reverse the tension will change as you bend the shoe for flatness and you gain nothing. Hope I explained myself well enough.
This is only how I would tune a car with a traction magnet. Cars with very little down force none of this will work in tuning, plus the only thing I know about cars with no down force is I know nothing about them LOL.
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Post by Deleted on May 8, 2020 16:46:12 GMT -7
well said Pete
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Post by dave632 on May 8, 2020 17:15:29 GMT -7
Pete you are right about the tire sizes. .476 for stock .500 for Super Stock. I was trying to give the SS cars a little advantage there.
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Post by pete on May 8, 2020 18:02:01 GMT -7
Its all good Dave. You guy's are going to have a busy week end. Im really looking forward to seeing all the cars in staging, Its going to be Cool.
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Post by dave632 on May 8, 2020 19:16:36 GMT -7
Yes over 80 cars now, if they all show up, and I have not put in any filler cars my biggest event ever..
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Post by ecbill on May 9, 2020 5:42:55 GMT -7
Dave,
Please add one 2.5 inline and two index cars for me. Sponsor items will be included with cars.
Thanks,
Bill
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Post by AJR on May 9, 2020 7:09:34 GMT -7
Something for everyone to consider. When you run on Max track, Dave has a Max, you will need more shoe tension then you would on a AW or Tomy rail. My track has more of Tomy like rail, I would run about 4-6 grams tension for shoes. Max I will bump up to 6-8 grams. Car will work better on a max when you increase shoe tension. Something I do is turn the lights off doing a test pass. Why would you do that? you can see if the shoes are getting good contact. If its good there will be no arching, If the shoes are arching it will look like a sparkier is under there. Get the shoes flat and look for good connection. Take a Dry erase marker and paint the shoe bottom full, then just push the car on the track a few inches. You will see the contact patch, adjust the shoe till you get a full line down the shoe. Then start adding tension. Do this in this order. If you do it in reverse the tension will change as you bend the shoe for flatness and you gain nothing. Hope I explained myself well enough. This is only how I would tune a car with a traction magnet. Cars with very little down force none of this will work in tuning, plus the only thing I know about cars with no down force is I know nothing about them LOL. Excellent info Pete. You have mentioned shoe tension before. I have always paid attention to shoe tension, but maybe not enough. How are you measuring the actual tension and why is it that the Maxx Trax needs more? The lights out test is a good one and slow motion video is also good for that as well. Also excellent tip on the eraser shoe print. Thank you for sharing. |
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Post by AJR on May 9, 2020 7:17:17 GMT -7
I have been working on cars on and off for a couple of weeks now. Have started over a couple of times on some builds. Finally starting to get some results. I just hope it continues. Today is dedicated to tuning and getting the cars as close to ready as I can. Tuning has been frustrating to say the least, but that is part of it. Looking forward to playing with the cars and track today!
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Post by dave632 on May 9, 2020 7:42:24 GMT -7
Got your added entries Bill, and thanks for being a sponsor. Pete good information, I have fooled around extensively with pickup tension. Glad to hear you are making progress Jeff.
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