Chassis setup issues

Really glad to hear it! Curious to know what voltage you're running at. Performance will obviously vary wildly depending on the specific motor used. And this was one of Dave W's earlier builds. But at intermediate voltage, my Cobra beats the pants off everything including AFX Mega G+ cars running the same class of N20 motor. But at least the main performance issue appears to be solved. Maybe try running it without the magnets in fornt if you still have them on there.

Anytime you have a question or issue with any of my designs, please don't hesitate to reach out to me. Happy to help. And if you have suggestions to improve their performance, I'm all ears. The beauty of 3D printing is that I can quickly iterate designs without the limitations of retooling molds.

Best,

- Jim Miller

HWP Slot Cars
highwingpilot@gmail.com

Dave, you've got the non-mag version of the chassis. The flats in front of the rear wheels are designed so you can attach magnets of various sizes and strengths if you choose to. But some builders like running them without magnets.

I make a newer version of the chassis which features fully tunable magnets. It uses grub screws to dial in whatever traction assist you want with 3/16" round magnets. Same fully adjustable wheelbase. I also have a fixed 1.5" wheelbase 4WD chassis which features 4 adjustable traction magnets (front and rear). The chassis all use the same body clip system - with clips for AFX/AW Magnatraction, Mega G/G+, Tyco 440 wide and narrow, MicroScalextric, Lexan pins, etc.

The bare chassis are available through my Shapeways shop. Dave Wonacott does sell them as completely built RTR chassis, and uses the Tyco Pro wipers instead of braids. But many guys build them themselves with standard parts and N20 motors they source themselves. The magnets are available in a range of strengths and thicknesses from KJmagnetics.

There is also a version which holds the 50% longer N30 motor, which I'm told is popular with drag racing for it's higher torque.

Here's a video of the first generation tunable traction chassis. The newest version, the Mk.4, uses a refined clip system that makes installing and swapping the motor a snap. But the overall design is effectively the same.

Hey Bill,

I don't want to violate any forum rules - not sure if it's okay to post links to my Shapeways shop. Some other formerly popular forum pages have strict rules against including "competitor"/"advertising" links. I'll have to check this forum's guidelines first.

But the whole idea behind the fully adjustable ultra-narrow SL2 chassis is to make all sorts of custom cars possible. From top-fuel dragsters, to open wheel designs - Smart cars to Greyhound buses. I also make a front rail extension that fits the new inline JAG chassis that extends the wheelbase by up to several inches, while looking like a narrow tubular frame.

This chassis led to the idea of creating custom chassis-less designs like the vintage 1965 Lotus 33 F1 look-alike, where the body IS the chassis. The motor and parts attach directly into body, allowing for greater design accuracy and freedom.

Here's video clip showing the chassis-less design:


And a custom "Lotus 33" build of my body by Dave Wonacott:


To give you an idea of the scale achievable, here is the prototype of the F1 body sitting next to a favorite old Tyco S car from my childhood.


Lots of possibilities for the custom builder. Like this delivery wagon with a fully adjustable front end, so it can be fitted whatever "motor" and pipes you like:


Or this old gal... the black fender/frame is the chassis. The coachwork, custom spoked wheels, etc. all attach like an 18-piece plastic model.




I should probably be posting this under a new thread, rather than one devoted to a "Bad Chassis".

Thanks for your interest!

- Jim

Thanks JJWallace!