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Post by dave632 on May 9, 2020 7:38:12 GMT -7
Just a warning about a chassis made by Dave Wonacott. Do not use it. Will not stay in the groove, uses T jet guide pins which break all the time because the guide keeps coming out of the slot. Tried to work on some for a friend and found them to be useless even after adding 2 neo magnets in the front to try to keep the front end down. Needs a serious rethink on the pickup section. Softer braid might work or that and a wheelie bar.  Dave Wonacott chassis
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Post by GTS on May 9, 2020 10:12:30 GMT -7
Consider the Jag Hobby's TR3 replacement guide pin. It is steel and doubles as the front body mount screw. One does need the special tool he sells to easily use them, though.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2020 14:05:37 GMT -7
Dave, I know the manufacturer of that 3D printed chassis, I think.
looks like his.
anyway, I have notified him of the difficulty you are relating and I will try to get some feedback.
if you have any more info or suggestions, please let me know.
too bad about the problem, that Dave Wanacott guy is buying a lot of Jim's bodies and chassis.
the body does not look like one of Jim's.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2020 14:09:28 GMT -7
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Post by dave632 on May 9, 2020 14:33:20 GMT -7
Don't know if that one will work either. Braid on a light chassis without a shoe underneath is questionable. The braid on the ones I had was
very stiff and would push the pin out of the groove or not make contact with the rails if I flattened it out. I put some wheelie bars on them and they worked better.
I know Hornby's get by with braid only and all larger size slot cars use it but these are so light it is not effective without a shoe underneath.
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Post by woodcote on May 9, 2020 15:17:56 GMT -7
Chassis with that small closed-can motor do have problems with the front lifting. A standard motor has more mass and significant magnetic downforce at the midpoint of the car. With the small can, there is neither. The Mega-G+ and new Hornby/Micro Scalextric chassis get round that somewhat by having strong neo traction magnets at the rear and some weight up front.
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Post by dave632 on May 9, 2020 16:22:29 GMT -7
Yes, I added 2 neo magnets near the front wheels and wheelie bars just to get them to go down the track.
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HWP
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Post by HWP on May 10, 2020 8:45:04 GMT -7
Hey guys, I'm the designer of that chassis, Jim Miller from HWP Slot Cars. Dave Wonacott buys them from my Shapeways shop and builds them to sell as RTR chassis and cars. It looks like that one wasn't set up correctly as I have had no issues with it whatsoever. Here's a link to a youtube video of the prototype first test run on my AFX track, at full throttle at Intermediate power setting. Watch it track through double chicanes without needing to slow down. I'm using copper braids and T-jet guide pins on this one too. No problems with de-slotting or broken guide pins. I have even driven the tunable mag chassis upside down. . And here's another of the non-mag version beating the pants off everything else on my drag strip (though I just got a Viper, so will have to re-run the race sometime!): It's quite possible that it wasn't built correctly. If you have any problems with the chassis, please feel to reach out to me directly. highwingpilot@gmail.com. Or through my shapeways shop or facebook page www.facebook.com/HWPSlotCars/I'm happy to help you get this straightened out Thanks, Jim Miller HWP Slot Cars |
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Post by dave632 on May 10, 2020 9:16:53 GMT -7
Thanks for the response.
How are you keeping the front end in the slot? If you take the tension off the braid it does not make contact. If you increase it then you have deslots.
I did not build the chassis but they were sent to me to see if I could make them run. They would not make one pass without desloting and occasionally breaking the
T jet guide pin since it was sliding on the pin going down the track after desloting. I added 2 Neo magnets to the FRONT of the chassis to try and hold it in the groove and then a wheelie bar. With the wheelie bar they finally were able to make it down the track. Slowly however hitting only 10 MPH in 1.3 seconds. This would not beat any of my Inline cars and I have well over 100. I have a first class drag track setup. I have worked on 1000s of HO slot cars and this was the toughest chassis I ever saw where I could not make a clean pass down the track and I can make any car run well on a drag strip.
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2020 10:09:56 GMT -7
Dave, I think the key here .... is.....
it appears that the front assembly for the braids/guide pin is improperly installed.
therefore, it might never work the way it is intended to.
this is the first i have heard of this problem and I know a dozen guys who built many successfully.
I know you are not going to rebuild the front assembly, but reach out to Jim directly and he will alleviate your worries.
he has made great strides towards providing chassis that will fit under narrow bodies and he is making great 3D printed bodies ( alas, no specific drag bodies .... YET).
he has always been accessible and I think you might like his products once you give them a try.
in any case, I was alarmed by the fact that one of his chassis did not perform as designed.
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HWP
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Post by HWP on May 10, 2020 10:39:08 GMT -7
Hey Dave, after taking a careful look at the photo again, the only thing I can think of is that the braid material may be too stiff. I use a very soft and thin desoldering wick in mine and have never had any trouble with them de-slotting of losing power. But if the braid is too stiff, it could cause it to lift the front end. I have sold several hundred of these chassis, and know many guys who have built them, but never heard a single complaint from anybody of them deslotting. You could try using a more flexible braid. Or some guys have used the reproduction Tyco Pro wipers from JAG hobbies. Dave W is now using them in the new vintage F1s I make. And guys say they run great. www.jaghobbies.com/ho_slot_cars/jag_misc_parts.htmI personally prefer the braids as they run quieter and deliver more power. But for road course cars, some have said they don't like braids because corner marshals might knock them out of alignment when handling them during a race. I don't use magnets or weights in the front end of my car. Adding magnets to the front will only increase strain on the guidepin. Especially if it crashes. Only times I've guide pins snap is when I have used the inferior quality AW guidepins - they snap all the time on my sons AW Thunderjet cars. Or if a pin is old and worn down. I recently ordered the JAG metal post pins to try out on my T-Jet C-Cab bodies. But haven't had a chance to test them yet. Another very likely possibility is your car is set up with AFX or AW front wheels which are a larger diameter than most T-jet fronts. If you're using a standard length or slightly shorter guidepin, it may not be deep enough in the slot. Try running the longer pins that several manufacturers produce. I have tested some 3D printed metal T-jet pins that I printed through shapeways, and made them long enough to handle running the big knobby racing hopper tires up front on my 4WD chassis. And they work great. So it could be the guidepins you're using are a little too short. Let me know if any of that helps. Out the hundreds running on tracks around the world, this is the first time I've heard of such problems. - Jim |
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Post by HWP on May 10, 2020 10:50:33 GMT -7
Dave, I think the key here .... is..... it appears that the front assembly for the braids/guide pin is improperly installed. therefore, it might never work the way it is intended to. this is the first i have heard of this problem and I know a dozen guys who built many successfully. I know you are not going to rebuild the front assembly, but reach out to Jim directly and he will alleviate your worries. he has made great strides towards providing chassis that will fit under narrow bodies and he is making great 3D printed bodies ( alas, no specific drag bodies .... YET). he has always been accessible and I think you might like his products once you give them a try. in any case, I was alarmed by the fact that one of his chassis did not perform as designed. Thanks Al! I think it's likely a combination of braids being too stiff and a standard length guidepin running with taller front tires. On my Roadster in the that drag racing video I posted, I'm using the longer length guidepin that several manufacturers make. And never had any trouble. By the way, I made a Pro-Mod drag body vacuum-form mold for Dan over at Viper. And may be making them available as hard-shell bodies as well.  Also making some 1/64 scale pit crew and backup and podium girl figures you guys might like:   |
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2020 10:57:15 GMT -7
gotta have a Jungle Pam!  |
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HWP
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Post by HWP on May 10, 2020 12:30:31 GMT -7
gotta have a Jungle Pam! I got one set aside for you. Just getting your boat tail printed up.  |
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Post by dave632 on May 10, 2020 13:07:08 GMT -7
Al, thanks for your help with this.
As stated I did not build this chassis they were sent to me to see what I could do with them. I thought the braid had come with the chassis. I had mentioned to the owner that the braid was very stiff. I will put some braid I use on my pickup shoes on those chassis and see what happens. I use it on all my pickup shoes where allowed by class rules, it is very flexible. My track is a Max Trax, the guide slot is not as deep as a standard AW type track. I tried a deeper red T jet pin but it dragged the bottom of the slot. Finally made one of my custom pins using a steel shaft which will not break. That stopped the guides from breaking which was happening because they were out of the groove..
Jungle Pam looks good!
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