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Post by ecbill on Jul 26, 2020 9:03:57 GMT -7
Learned some hard lessons in the paint shop. Some of the clear coats I use are not compatible with others. Rule of thumb has been enamel over lacquer is ok but not lacquer over enamel.
The plastic coat acrylic enamel I have will crinkle a lacquer undercoat. What is really odd is that it did so even with a car coated from the same can of enamel.
This led to hard lesson #2, the translucent 1st Lap bodies will soften in paint stripper. Same solution does not do that to regular bodies. All window pillars were sagging and body plastic wrinkled like your fingers when you’ve been in a pool. This has happened to me before on a resin body but never plastic.
Hurried up and cleaned it, the shoved the glass back in it, in attempt to salvage the body. It may be able to be saved.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2020 9:58:18 GMT -7
Bill, thank you for sharing!
what brand or type stripper are you referring to?
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Post by finistauri on Jul 26, 2020 10:37:20 GMT -7
Learned some hard lessons in the paint shop. Some of the clear coats I use are not compatible with others. Rule of thumb has been enamel over lacquer is ok but not lacquer over enamel. The plastic coat acrylic enamel I have will crinkle a lacquer undercoat. What is really odd is that it did so even with a car coated from the same can of enamel. This led to hard lesson #2, the translucent 1st Lap bodies will soften in paint stripper. Same solution does not do that to regular bodies. All window pillars were sagging and body plastic wrinkled like your fingers when you’ve been in a pool. This has happened to me before on a resin body but never plastic. Hurried up and cleaned it, the shoved the glass back in it, in attempt to salvage the body. It may be able to be saved. Bill Painting lacquer on a 55 Chevy that had a hole in the roof all was going well, I should have stripped it down to bare body, It continued to wrinkled up, Finally got it but while wet sanding with 1500 grit sand paper, wet throw a tiny bit on truck lid 😲 I had already painted the clear coat on it. When I tried to repaint the trunk lid over, the clear coat turned it into a wrinkled mess, Sanded it all down again, I had it perfect,😁 Put it under the drying light and went to the shop, when I came back it looked like it had wrecked and rolled on the road. Bought a New AW Body ant started all over again 😨. finistauri |
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Post by dave632 on Jul 26, 2020 14:21:27 GMT -7
These cars can even aggravate you when painting them.
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Post by ecbill on Jul 27, 2020 21:44:31 GMT -7
Bill, thank you for sharing! what brand or type stripper are you referring to? Al, I think it’s Scale Coat. Will have to check to be sure. It smells like a common household cleaner like 409 or Fantastik. |
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Post by mazda on Jul 28, 2020 2:13:02 GMT -7
The main problem that I have with painting is finding a clear coat that will not affect the decals. I use rattle cans for painting but I always ensue that the body is extremely clean before priming. I use automotive paints mainly and clear coat from the same brand. Details are added after the first clear coat.
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Post by ecbill on Jul 28, 2020 6:29:24 GMT -7
The main problem that I have with painting is finding a clear coat that will not affect the decals. I use rattle cans for painting but I always ensue that the body is extremely clean before priming. I use automotive paints mainly and clear coat from the same brand. Details are added after the first clear coat. I’ve also had some issues with the clear puckering up the edges of certain decals. Seem to recall Jeff writing about that too. It’s frustrating to get that far into the process only or have it get messed up. Not sure what we could do about it. There are a few products out there labeled as decal sealers. Any idea if they would help? To be honest, I haven’t found any clear coat that I’m totally satisfied with. Like Clive, I’ve been using various rattle cans. The one with the best gloss has been Testors old gloss coat but it tends to yellow if applied thick and will yellow with age. Since it’s not unusual for a lot of time to lapse between coats of clear, I’m thinking about labeling the underside of the bodies with which type of clear was used. |
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Post by wbj on Jul 28, 2020 7:04:38 GMT -7
I feel your pain here, especially having screwed up a few paint jobs over time. On the decal issue I've used Microscale Liquid Decal Film for years with no issues. Simply coat the decal after it is applied. Let it setup and dry and then apply the top coat. This has work for me on decals I've purchase to those I made for myself. I hope this helps?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2020 8:55:14 GMT -7
MY TOO SCENTS!
Pledge acrylic floor care (used to be a brand called Future and some of the Pledge bottles say Future on them) is water based and non-toxic.
I don't know if you can paint over it, but as a final clear coat over everything it works well.
remember, it is floor polish/wax, so designed to take a licking and remain clear and shiny.
not the end all - do all, but certainly another item to have.
I don't know what they have in UK that is equivalent, but there must be something.
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Post by AJR on Jul 28, 2020 9:04:51 GMT -7
The main problem that I have with painting is finding a clear coat that will not affect the decals. I use rattle cans for painting but I always ensue that the body is extremely clean before priming. I use automotive paints mainly and clear coat from the same brand. Details are added after the first clear coat. I’ve also had some issues with the clear puckering up the edges of certain decals. Seem to recall Jeff writing about that too. It’s frustrating to get that far into the process only or have it get messed up. Not sure what we could do about it. There are a few products out there labeled as decal sealers. Any idea if they would help? To be honest, I haven’t found any clear coat that I’m totally satisfied with. Like Clive, I’ve been using various rattle cans. The one with the best gloss has been Testors old gloss coat but it tends to yellow if applied thick and will yellow with age. Since it’s not unusual for a lot of time to lapse between coats of clear, I’m thinking about labeling the underside of the bodies with which type of clear was used. I have hell with clear coats to this day. I don't know what it is??? I've done everything and continue to have issues with EVERY type of clear. I am almost exclusively lacquer with paint and clear. I only use enamels for detailing and I don't even like them for that. They dry much slower than lacquer or acrylic and therein lies the problem. The absolute best clear finish that I have used was the automotive 2 part urethane clear. That finish is slick and deep. That is what the good customizers are using. I had horrible fisheye issues with it, but when it worked it was beautiful. I am obviously missing something. The cars I'm currently working on are going to get that. My heart rate picks up everytime I clear a car now. That's last stage of the custom....hours of work....only to have it ruined by fisheye city or wrinkled and bubbling decals  . I will definitely post anything that I happen to discover. I feel the pain of this thread!  |
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Post by AJR on Jul 28, 2020 9:08:45 GMT -7
I feel your pain here, especially having screwed up a few paint jobs over time. On the decal issue I've used Microscale Liquid Decal Film for years with no issues. Simply coat the decal after it is applied. Let it setup and dry and then apply the top coat. This has work for me on decals I've purchase to those I made for myself. I hope this helps? This is a very good tip and Microscale is a good product. This does help. |
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Post by GTS on Jul 28, 2020 10:42:43 GMT -7
I used to use clear enamel rattle can all the time to clear various projects but about a couple years ago everything changed. It would orange peel every project I tried to use it on, so I don't even try any more. Haven't gotten real fluid on using the air brush so have been rattle can painting all my race cars. Leaves a little to be desired  . I've been spraying all my printed decals with this No issues yet but have not been spraying a clear coat after decals are applied. Recently I've started clear coating with the Pledge/Future wax that alpink mentioned. I just brush it on so as to be selective with what gets clear coated and it seems to work fine. It makes the enamel rattle can finish look better and it has caused no issues with the decals. YMMV
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Post by skillet on Jul 28, 2020 15:33:40 GMT -7
I'd like to add some things...wrong or right...im not sure but just things lol. First I think , plan on a couple days of clearing a car not 1 session and done. I do body work on cars and as much as I want to bring that to slot cars as it is the same it is also different. Finding the difference is key. To me I feel using paints, the chemicals act differently being sprayed in a small spot (slot car) compared to a fender. For some reason it just looks like the drying time/ cure and finish are diffrent. If you rattle can a slot car i find it best to wait a week or longer if possible to apply the decal and clear. Especially if your using diffrent brands together. A trick to the rattle can a good friend of mine shared was buy a can of hobby paint even if your not going to use it. Use the sprayer cap on your rattle can you are going to use. The hole is different, so your not spraying a fire hose on the car. Best thing to use is an airbrush. If you can rattle can you can airbrush. There cheap most expensive is the air supply, there's ways around that to. Find a big inner tube fill it up and hook it to an airbrush. Where only painting a small car I have mixed feelings on the pledge Al was talking about. Im new to using it, but if I'm using decales I go straight to it. If I'm doing a solid color I use clear. With decals the pledge is forgiving and if you wanted to change the decals a year later it can be easily done. After it is cured you can sand the pledge with 2000 and repledge for a finer look.you can paint over the pledge, but im not sure on pledge over that. I haven't tried because I think it would reactivate the pledge under the paint. With all that being said. If you use an airbrush for everthing you can get away with alot more than any other method I have found. Don't get me wrong I have beautiful paint jobs from rattle cans just adding what I've found. Since we're talking paint, lexan bodys. Don't know if you guys use them or not, but I don't like the paint for lexan. It seems to attack the body making it crack. Also it chips when you crash. It seems to me enamel holds up better. Even though everything i read says different lmao. Sam/Skillet  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2020 16:17:08 GMT -7
I think that paint designed for lexan is lacquer.
it is supposed to remain flexible to a degree.
and the body needs to be washed and then cleaned with denatured alcohol before painting.
also, since you are painting on the inside of the body, you reverse your process.
and, one should back up all of those paint jobs with white or silver.
I have done a number of 1/24 lexan bodies over the years and some 1/64.
the paint doesn't chip from minor collisions because the body can flex and the paint with it.
but ..... hard impacts are still going to flex the paint past it's ability to cling to the lexan surface.
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Post by skillet on Jul 28, 2020 16:24:09 GMT -7
I'm not sure what it is Al but the ingredients almost match the wifes finger nail paint. For lexan
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. I've been spraying all my printed decals with this
