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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2020 16:38:19 GMT -7
yes, most fingernail polish is lacquer also.
you can tell by the smell.
I use the lacquer designed for lexan (spray cans) for hard body cars, but, I make sure they are well gassed out before I clear them and I always clear them.
I am told that lacquer gasses out quicker than enamel. I don't know about acrylic.
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Post by skillet on Jul 28, 2020 17:46:17 GMT -7
I also agree on backing the paint job. No matter what paint is used. For a while I was backing everything with tint clear. Pulled tape off and had tinted windows lol.
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Post by ecbill on Jul 28, 2020 18:23:41 GMT -7
I’ve also had some issues with the clear puckering up the edges of certain decals. Seem to recall Jeff writing about that too. It’s frustrating to get that far into the process only or have it get messed up. Not sure what we could do about it. There are a few products out there labeled as decal sealers. Any idea if they would help? To be honest, I haven’t found any clear coat that I’m totally satisfied with. Like Clive, I’ve been using various rattle cans. The one with the best gloss has been Testors old gloss coat but it tends to yellow if applied thick and will yellow with age. Since it’s not unusual for a lot of time to lapse between coats of clear, I’m thinking about labeling the underside of the bodies with which type of clear was used. I have hell with clear coats to this day. I don't know what it is??? I've done everything and continue to have issues with EVERY type of clear. I am almost exclusively lacquer with paint and clear. I only use enamels for detailing and I don't even like them for that. They dry much slower than lacquer or acrylic and therein lies the problem. The absolute best clear finish that I have used was the automotive 2 part urethane clear. That finish is slick and deep. That is what the good customizers are using. I had horrible fisheye issues with it, but when it worked it was beautiful. I am obviously missing something. The cars I'm currently working on are going to get that. My heart rate picks up everytime I clear a car now. That's last stage of the custom....hours of work....only to have it ruined by fisheye city or wrinkled and bubbling decals  . I will definitely post anything that I happen to discover. I feel the pain of this thread!  Don't know of any reliable clears to use in an airbrush. Automotive 2 part clear like Jeff mentioned are pretty toxic. The hardener has isocyanide in it. When I painted real cars with it, I used a fresh air supplied hood, gloves and tyvek coveralls. Its not something to mess with. Still have a bunch of it left but its too much trouble to get out all of that gear to paint a slot car. I may have one major paint issue resolved! Bought a dehumidifier for the garage. When humidity gets up around 70%, clears and candy paints will fog up. Its been so humid hear lately, that its been real hard to get a good paint job in. in |
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Post by AJR on Jul 28, 2020 18:55:15 GMT -7
Yes Bill you are correct about the toxicity of the urethane. But I'm spraying it thru an airbrush on an HO scale body. If handled properly (fresh air,exhaust,respirator,gloves) it is safe. I've used multiple rattle can lacquer clears, acrylic clears, polycrylic clears, and the Pledge floor wax. The hands down best and most durable clear in my humble opinion is the urethane. But it is more work. Depends on what you want and personal preference I guess. I'm determined to get it right.
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Post by hairycanary on Jul 28, 2020 22:26:59 GMT -7
I found some stuff so far I like a whole lot. I got this a couple of years back and the primer is the best rattle can stuff I've used. The clear in the rattle can works pretty well too. Haven't tried the ready to spray for a air brush stuff yet. It's all lacquer based. Whats nice you can get it in small quantities. I'm like Jeff I try to use lacquer's only. If I do use a enamel I check to see if it will mix with lacquer thinner and if it does that's what I use to thin it with. It dries a lot faster thinned with lacquer. I don't like clear coating out of a can its really hard to lay the first light mist coats on first. I think the lacquer clear is best for decals and even enamels because I think with those first light mist coats it's almost dry by the time it hits the body so it doesn't have a chance to react to anything ? After the base is layed then I start to lay the clear on heavier. That's why I like a air brush for shooting clears because of the control. I did use the rattle can Automotive Touchup Clear on the Flying Dutchman and it had no reaction just the painter had problems  . The Krylon Gale posted I used that in lacquer for years and had no issues and really liked it. And Bill talked about humidity and I think that could cause a lot of problems. I don't have any of that to deal with so I can't comment on that. And Urethane clear is by far the best but it's a pain to use and yes very toxic. But well worth it. All that has worked for me. And I'm still trying to try new paints and techniques and enjoy hearing everyone's methods and experiences good or bad. automotivetouchup.com  Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr |
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Post by AJR on Jul 29, 2020 7:39:21 GMT -7
I found some stuff so far I like a whole lot. I got this a couple of years back and the primer is the best rattle can stuff I've used. The clear in the rattle can works pretty well too. Haven't tried the ready to spray for a air brush stuff yet. It's all lacquer based. Whats nice you can get it in small quantities. I'm like Jeff I try to use lacquer's only. If I do use a enamel I check to see if it will mix with lacquer thinner and if it does that's what I use to thin it with. It dries a lot faster thinned with lacquer. I don't like clear coating out of a can its really hard to lay the first light mist coats on first. I think the lacquer clear is best for decals and even enamels because I think with those first light mist coats it's almost dry by the time it hits the body so it doesn't have a chance to react to anything ? After the base is layed then I start to lay the clear on heavier. That's why I like a air brush for shooting clears because of the control. I did use the rattle can Automotive Touchup Clear on the Flying Dutchman and it had no reaction just the painter had problems . The Krylon Gale posted I used that in lacquer for years and had no issues and really liked it. And Bill talked about humidity and I think that could cause a lot of problems. I don't have any of that to deal with so I can't comment on that. And Urethane clear is by far the best but it's a pain to use and yes very toxic. But well worth it. All that has worked for me. And I'm still trying to try new paints and techniques and enjoy hearing everyone's methods and experiences good or bad. automotivetouchup.com Untitled by rick williamson, on Flickr Rick how does the automotivetouchup clear compare to the urethane finish and durability? What I'm looking for is the urethane type finish. That deep slick finish. If it is close then that's what I'm looking for. I think you said you used it on the Kiwi Challenge helmet trophy didn't you? That looked really good. You and I have discussed this product before and I was actually looking at making an order before you posted here. Thanks in advance. |
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Post by hairycanary on Jul 29, 2020 21:57:23 GMT -7
[Rick how does the automotivetouchup clear compare to the urethane finish and durability? What I'm looking for is the urethane type finish. That deep slick finish. If it is close then that's what I'm looking for. I think you said you used it on the Kiwi Challenge helmet trophy didn't you? That looked really good. You and I have discussed this product before and I was actually looking at making an order before you posted here. Thanks in advance.[/quote]
Jeff I haven’t used the clear enough to compare it to the urethane yet. But what I’ve seen so far it’s close but still not comparable to the urethane ? I need to put it through the real test of running it at a couple of races for the toughness to see if it will take the beating ? The urethane is almost bulletproof. I will send you a sample to try before you order some. See how you like it.
Rick
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Post by AJR on Jul 30, 2020 6:09:19 GMT -7
Rick I ordered some of their products yesterday so I will post here and on the Bear Creek thread my results. I am still planning on figuring out what my issues are with the urethane though. That finish is just unmatchable from what I've seen. The automotivetouchup products are priced right. Very affordable and you don't have to buy a lifetime supply (for HO cars). Thanks for all the help!
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. The Krylon Gale posted I used that in lacquer for years and had no issues and really liked it. And Bill talked about humidity and I think that could cause a lot of problems. I don't have any of that to deal with so I can't comment on that. And Urethane clear is by far the best but it's a pain to use and yes very toxic. But well worth it. All that has worked for me. And I'm still trying to try new paints and techniques and enjoy hearing everyone's methods and experiences good or bad.