|
Post by dave632 on Aug 28, 2020 14:03:46 GMT -7
Bought one of the new Fusion chassis and tested it on the drag strip. Bought the kit as I wanted to use my own drag strip gearing and tires. Kit was not to bad to assemble, the brush assembly is a little tricky so I recommend watching the video and using some kind of magnification as the springs etc. are pretty small. Design in my opinion is pretty good, traction magnets read in the poly range, level 10, with the motor magnets reading in the Ceramic, level 4 range. Armature read 5.9-6.0 ohms and it is balanced. After assembly, or as a drag racer would say right off the trailer, I ran it and found the speed and ET were off for a chassis of this type hitting high .6s @ 21 MPH. I also raced it against one of my faster 6 ohm pancakes where it improved slightly but lost the race. I looked at the chassis and determined that the problem was the pickups were not hitting the rails properly, only hitting the front of the pickup for a poor contact and yes I did use the stock front tires but the larger rear tires may have caused the rear of the pickup to lift some. I determined braid would more than correct this problem. I installed braid and it made a world of difference, dropping almost a tenth and a half with a 7 MPH improvement. I did not try to work on the pickups for better contact but I am sure bending them and increasing the spring rate would have helped a lot. Braid fixed the trouble. A little more break in might pick up a few hundredths also. Overall a good chassis if you want to give one a try, they do sell a completely built version. I will allow this chassis in Super Stock and Pro Stock at my upcoming race in November. Here are some pictures of the build. Fusion kit 1
completed kit 2
first run dead stock
2nd run vs good running 55 pancake
First run with braid
run 2 with braid
|
|
|
Post by pete on Aug 29, 2020 5:25:19 GMT -7
Dave not sure what I'm seeing, the end bell isn't siting in the chassis somehow? I also thought attention needs to paid to pick ups. the car sits about .005 lower than a viper front and rear. When I raised the car with rear and front drag tire set up, it was hard to get the shoes laying flat. Never done the braid yet on inlines , this chassis needs it. Glad to see your car responded in testing. The fusion is a full gram lighter than viper and almost a gram and a half less than a G. Means a lot of extra weight needs to added to hit 21 grams overall. I ran the fusion at your race last event in ISS, it was right there. It should be quicker and faster with the adjustments this time out I hope:)
|
|
|
Post by dave632 on Aug 29, 2020 8:05:02 GMT -7
Yes, as I mentioned, putting the bigger rear tires for drag racing purposes raised the rear and the pickups were only hitting the front of the shoe. I took the shortcut and went right to braid to correct the problem. No doubt with some more tuning and more break in I can cut some ET off. MPH is good at 27-28 which is about right for a good inline stocker. The stock magnets look like they are made for round track racing as they are made light but not to strong even for Ceramics. My gauss readings were kind of low in the 6-700 range. Stock Ceramic BSRT magnets read in the 8-1000 range. This would probably be good for a few hundredths in ET. I don't know if a BSRT Viper ceramic would fit in this chassis however. The traction magnets however read in the Poly range hitting about 13-1500 and are good for our purposes.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2020 8:26:18 GMT -7
Dave, notice please ... as pete said, in the large picture and all the subsequent pictures the drivers side of the bulk head is not completely inserted into the chassis. and, unless it is a trick of illusion, the chassis is slightly distorted at the bulk head position. perhaps review that, post up new pic, take a few more test runs? I still haven't built mine, so I appreciate the tips you guys have.
|
|
|
Post by dave632 on Aug 29, 2020 13:18:52 GMT -7
|
|
|
Post by skillet on Aug 29, 2020 13:44:04 GMT -7
It went slower. Slapping myself in the forehead.
Thanks for pointing the chassie thing out. I was looking at it last night thinking they put some crazy shape to the chassie.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2020 14:04:42 GMT -7
" After squeezing it together it went slower??? "
ruh roh very interesting though. must be some explanation. oh well.
|
|
|
Post by dynomike on Aug 29, 2020 14:27:05 GMT -7
I usually go slower after being squezzed!
|
|
|
Post by dave632 on Aug 29, 2020 16:19:33 GMT -7
Have no idea why it lost 2-3 MPH after pushing the sides of the chassis closer together. Magnets did not move they are held in by the end bell and rear clip. Note also early incremental times did not change much, loss was at top end.
|
|
|
Post by pete on Aug 29, 2020 16:46:08 GMT -7
Brush tension. Take a tooth pick and touch the brush, pretty sure you will see an increase of RPM. Did you get the tweaked endbell? It helps connection between the brush and brush holder. Everybody has been tweaking away on the set up for these. Brush tension seems to be key. Keep working it you'll find more. Takes a bit to get used to.
|
|
|
Post by dave632 on Aug 29, 2020 20:39:57 GMT -7
Have not tried any tuning yet but I will in the future.
Pete this is the standard end bell. Did notice that they have different brushes available to adjust timing + 10 or 20 degrees. They did this by cutting the brush to adjust timing. This one came with the 10 degree set.
|
|
|
Post by dave632 on Aug 30, 2020 8:10:55 GMT -7
Brushes must also be installed in the correct direction, otherwise they will retard the timing.
|
|