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Post by dave632 on Feb 6, 2021 14:54:20 GMT -7
Next thing we can forget about is running at 28 volts with a low ohm arm.
At least this chassis started to melt the positive track rail as it was shooting
sparks for the first foot or so and it did not run any quicker or faster which may
have been caused by all the arcing. Track looked like it was welding.
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Post by GTS on Feb 6, 2021 16:26:16 GMT -7
I for one, am impressed with a .4298 for a T-Jet  |
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Post by dave632 on Feb 6, 2021 16:54:52 GMT -7
I was surprised when it started to eat the track up literally.
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Post by dynomike on Feb 6, 2021 17:39:52 GMT -7
Wet brush? Is this particular type of brush or is this water dipping breakin or just using com drops?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2021 17:50:10 GMT -7
"wet brush" is a combination of shoe spring and shunt material inside it to replace motor brushes. you must put oil on the comm to keep it from getting destroyed.
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Post by dynomike on Feb 6, 2021 18:12:13 GMT -7
Thanks, I learn something everyday.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2021 19:41:47 GMT -7
I call it "wet comm" but same thing
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Post by hairycanary on Feb 6, 2021 21:43:56 GMT -7
Dave very impressive !! Thanks for the updates on this build. I need all the learnin I can get before I start on mine. I’ve only heard of the wet com but never seen one or how it was set up or works ? Would you mind showing us the basics ? And I was wondering if those runs was with the crown I sent you ? I was wondering if it survived so far ? Or failed ? I have a 15T for the Tjet that I think it’s better than the one I sent you ? That was one of my first practice ones. Haven’t had much time to work on the crowns lately.
Thanks Rick
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Post by dave632 on Feb 7, 2021 10:36:20 GMT -7
I will do a tutorial on the wet comm.
Rick the gear is holding up fine. I did have to solder it to the axle as it started to slip. Don't know why
as the inside diameter seemed to be fine. I did break in the crown with Simichrome for about 20 minutes @ 9v and it runs very smooth now. No sign of failure of any kind with the gear, looks great and I think it will take all I can throw at it. As you may have read 28 volts did not work out to well as it started to tear the positive rail on the track up. Will have to do more checking on that. Maybe Al has some ideas there as he used to run at tracks with some higher voltages.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2021 11:43:43 GMT -7
thoughts ....
pancakes .... outlaws, braids and shunts absolutely. wet comms with lubricant on the comm. good stiff wheelie bars. good traction magnets.
we only ran the t-jet outlaw at 24 volts using automotive batteries with huge amperage available.
they had sub 1 OHM armatures and very strong NEO motor magnets.
inline .... "unlimited", again braids and shunts. good traction magnets. good stiff wheelie bar. VooDoo com drops on the comm and braid.
ran these per DRHOE rules and regulations at about 28 volts. those guys also put gasket adhesive on the starting line to get improved traction.
again, sub 1 OHM armatures and really strong NEO motor magnets
I helped build (lay rails for the most part) two of Tim's (Subaru Guru at Solanco dragway) in Paradise PA tracks.
I never saw a problem with rails lifting on any of these tracks.
so, I cannot address what is going on with yours Dave.
I can try to answer any direct questions too.
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Post by AJR on Feb 7, 2021 12:56:37 GMT -7
"wet brush" is a combination of shoe spring and shunt material inside it to replace motor brushes. you must put oil on the comm to keep it from getting destroyed. It's very messy and gets the track surface oily...not to mention the car too. I will go with conventional set up. |
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Post by AJR on Feb 7, 2021 12:58:53 GMT -7
Next thing we can forget about is running at 28 volts with a low ohm arm. At least this chassis started to melt the positive track rail as it was shooting sparks for the first foot or so and it did not run any quicker or faster which may have been caused by all the arcing. Track looked like it was welding. I felt 28v was going to be too much but did not want to say anything. 26V has always worked well for the hot builds we run here....Inlines and Pancake both. The low ohm arms and stronger magnets need some volts and amps to perform properly. |
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Post by dave632 on Feb 7, 2021 14:36:13 GMT -7
Will try the little monster at 26 volts as Jeff suggested.
Al the car was actually melting the rail, I think it was pulling the pickups off the track even though it
had a wheelie bar until it got about a foot down the track then it stopped sparking. I will do some more testing. I will
also try a stiffer wheelie bar and more pickup spring tension, especially on the positive rail side.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2021 15:12:41 GMT -7
"wet brush" is a combination of shoe spring and shunt material inside it to replace motor brushes. you must put oil on the comm to keep it from getting destroyed. It's very messy and gets the track surface oily...not to mention the car too. I will go with conventional set up. Jeff, I have never put on so much oil that it fouls the track. everyone has different ways of doing things. to be sure, I would never send a car of that caliber any where to race that I wasn't handling it in person. there is much more to racing outlaws than happens at most proxy races. I think anyone who has raced the cars I am referring to would agree that they have to be there to race the car. and I agree, that the proxy type racing we are doing doesn't lend itself well the most extreme practices I have grown used to live racing. I respect your opinion and decision and heartily agree |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2021 15:14:16 GMT -7
Will try the little monster at 26 volts as Jeff suggested. Al the car was actually melting the rail, I think it was pulling the pickups off the track even though it had a wheelie bar until it got about a foot down the track then it stopped sparking. I will do some more testing. I will also try a stiffer wheelie bar and more pickup spring tension, especially on the positive rail side. Dave, if I recall you have a MaxTrack? with "L" shaped rails? |
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