I know there are many brands and materials. Who makes the lowest friction. And who makes the most durable. Do the pinions and crowns need to be of the same mfg. What do most of you use to lap in inline gears. What procedure is best. Any input will be appreciated.
To a point you want to stay with same manufacturer. Although alot will inner change. Stay away from mixing tyco and tomy. Autoworld just toss in the garbage. If your just putting some drivers together wizzard has storm pinion and crown a dollar each. They run good and hold up for stock. I use wizzard brass gears for alot of stuff , but try to have your arm spaced perfectly before you put your pinion on. You don't want to keep taking brass ones on and off.
Slot tech crowns match wizzard pinion extremely well.
I haven't tried rpm gears but have heard they are good.
As far as break in and gear lapping we can dance all over the place.
First thing off remember what ever you use you have to clean off...
Alot of people use toothpaste. I have it works. My new go to is polishing compound from chemical guys. I'll check the numbers but I think it's 34 and 38. I like it because as it wears the compound breaks down into nothing. Super easy clean up if any. For me doing this with brass gears works great. Plastic gears I'm not sure. For plastic to me it almost seems like they mesh good from the start or they just don't like each other (crown and pinion).
If I'm doing gear lapping on a new build I usually break in the brushes first. Let the car run without a back axle at 6 volt. People's times vary all over the place for break in. I really just listen for the change and watch the amp on the power supply to stay at a constant and not go up and down.
I can't agree more with Skillet. Tyco to Tyco, Wizzard to Wizzard, Tomy to Tomy, BSRT to BSRT + They work well with Tyco not sure about how they work with Tomy... BSRT that is. Can't say anything on Slottech or RPM. So if you are looking for a 8 to 20 gearing... try to keep it in the "family"
On gear break in I use plastic polish. What works well are the polishes that are sold to clean/polish headlights. Topped off with a final drop or two or more of Novus.
As stated above "I really just listen for the change and watch the amp on the power supply to stay at a constant and not go up and down." Let this be a good guide.
Gear mesh has to do with the pitch of the tooth. Wizzard pro predator line have a 64 degree pitch on the pinion and crown and if spaced well, will mesh very well. Sam is right that the wizzard P/P pinion will mesh with Slot Tech gears but not every tooth crown. I forget which tooth count isn't matched well. Tyco pinions mesh well with just about every gear out there. Harden Creek and Jag Hobbies have a pinion that closely resembles the tyco. Works with just about everything. RPM's line of gears are very nice, the only pinion they do not play well against are the BSRT TOMY pinion.
8 tooth pinions, Wizzard with wizzard, Slot tech, RPM's The Harden Creek and Jag mesh well with again just about everything. I do not use any BSRT gears just for the fact of availability. I won't approach that subject.
When setting up a gear set, before I put power to the drive line, I check what the mesh feels like in my hand. If it feels tight or like there is a place that binds in rotation, its probably not a good mesh. What you want is a good mesh from the start. A bad mesh no matter how much you compound, you grind away on it, isn't going to give that mesh your looking for.
Good tip is to place the axle in backwards and break the gear in that way first. What this does is break in the tailing edge of the tooth of pinion and crown, Why? because there are two sides on the tooth. If you do not do this your leaving some HP on the table. I find with inlines the lapping with compound isn't really needed, TJets FN lap everything.
Amp meter is your best friend here. See what your amp draw is with and without axle, you want those numbers to change very little. I like to break gears in around nine volts.
Drag cars I try and locate my rear axle so its in the right place right to left. When I push on the axle I don't want see a lot of movement, up and down side to side. If your axle has to move sideways at the hit your losing time.
A good gear mesh can be found by using an odd and even number. That is not to say you will never find a good mesh using even even. This is where a matched pitch will help. To get a matching pitch, stay with the same manufacturer since they design each to use together. That said its not always the fastest set up.
Great info...I just started to get more "serious" about drag racing about a year ago....Still have a LOT to learn!...I've mostly been doing stock classes, to get a better understanding of setting up a car.. Thanks for the info
I've got to start paying more attention here...I've got two races in November (not NTRA). I just don't have the time to participate right now....My fault that I didn't see it sooner....I'm not a Tjet builder. Guaranteed, my car would've been the slowest.
"OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..
Well the Christmas Exchange is probably perfect for you then. As long as you had time to squeeze in a paint job. This race is more for giving a gift (painted car). It doesn't need to be fast. I hear yha on a lot going on though.