I haven't really found one. I think its easier to move the hands out first then push the legs up. The body snaps off very scary like and there's a wire clip that pushes down in the front. Then you can manipulate the bike in half.
respecting Sam's method, I have had success a little differently, removing the legs just above the boots and then the hands from the handle bars. the clip just behind the handle bars needs to be gently but firmly removed, I have pushed it a little until I could get ahold of it with needle nose pliers and finish pulling it off. more than one person has seen that clip disappear into an alternate dimension instantly! as Sam says the main body will come apart down the middle pretty easily. of course you need to remove the brass clip off the bottom that holds the traction magnet bar in place first too. no need to try to take the motor apart. replacing motor brushes is easy enough without even taking the bike apart. I recommend "grinding" a flat spot on one side of the brush tubes where the pick up shoe spring contacts the brush tube for a better electrical path. when reassembling, it is easy to spread the "exhausts" (where the rear wheel fits) to get the rear wheels assembly in and not break anything. likewise with the front forks for the front wheel.
if you decide to drill out one side of the rivet that holds the motor together be sure to have some kind of replacement. there are some on eBay through a couple vendors. search around your stock of slip on silicone tires for something that is close to the inside diameter of the stock rear tires. put one of those silicone tires on a wheel on an axle and use your rotary tool ( dremel?) at low speed to cut a couple/three/four narrow tires with a very sharp hobby knife (X-acto) to replace the stock tires with.
placement of wheelie bar is optional. beware that the seat/tank part of the body under the driver is very flexible and weak and could be easily broken. that area might need reinforcement prior to adding wheelie bars.
there is certainly more to learn and know, so I hope some other folks add to this conversation. thank you Bill for getting it rolling.
I agree we have some learning to do here. Drilling the rivit is a no no for me. If you need to pull the motor the rear bulkhead will come of and go back on with out Drilling the rivit.
Maybe we can talk in here about what we would like to be able to do to the bikes.
After running them at Summer Slam I feel we should definitely allow for shunts no matter what we do.
One other thing I noticed a few of us used double shoe springs. I admit it sure sounds good, but I think that double spring actually puts the bike on a pogo stick going side to side as they run. I believe 1 spring and shunts will make them run smoothly and consistent.